Adj. sights on my Mil-Spec?

[Shane in WI]

I bought a slightly used Springfield Mil-Spec 45 a few months ago and have been shooting leage on Monday nights. Been doing much better and hitting much more consistantly. Only problem in I have to hold at 12 o'clock to hit the x ring. It's been suggested I add a trigger set to 3 1/2#'s and have adjustable sights installed. Those two would add $125 to the cost of the $400 gun. Also thought of just filing down the front sight until it shoots where I look. What are your suggestions? Functions perfectly and accuracy is very good, at least for me at this time.

[John Traveler]

I've owned several issued M1911A1 .45 ACP pistols and in every instance, adding adjustable sights was a big improvement!  Sight picture, visibility, quicker acquisition, etc.  It's a real pleasure to adjust the sight to hit where you aim.  Thye are not just for middle-aged eyes.

You will need them when you start handloading different bullet weights or to shoot more, affordably.

There is/was an adjustable rear sight made by the MMC (Micro Machining Company) that worked with the stock fron sight.  You installed it yourself by drifting out the rear sight, drifting in the new one and tightening a setscrew.

HTH
John

[Mikey]

Shane:  don't do that.  If you file down the front sight she will only shoot higher and your point of impact will climb.  You need to add more to the front sight to bring the point of impact down.  I would go for the adjustable sights.  

Also, you mentioned trigger needs.  You can most likely do this yourself.  I would dismantle the piece and remove the trigger group in its entirety.  I would stone the trigger bar(s), make certain you don't have any burrs or drag on the bottom, top or sides of the trigger, and lightly polish the hammer/sear connection to remove any burrs.  Then, I would take the hammer spring - that three pronged spring and bend out the center prong until the trigger is as light as you want it.  If you can stone the trigger bar grooves that would also help.  The last thing I would try is some moly lube if you have any.  I would apply it with a q-tip and try and burnish it into the trigger bar(s) and bar grooves as best as possible.  Then I would finish that with just a wee bit of engine oil (20-50 works for me).  

Just as an aside, you mentioned that you had to hold at 12:00 to hit the bull.  What distance is this at and how large is the target/bull that you are shooting at.  I ask because a friend felt he had a similar problem with a mi-spec Springer at 25 yds. He complained that he had to hold high, to the 12:00 on the target dot to cross the X.  I looked at his target and the guy was shooting on a 4" bull at 25 yds.  This meant his gun was shooting only 2" low at  that distance but for target work it was not adequate.  I had some dark brown caulk in my truck that day and added a drop (like one drop) to his front sight and split a coffee with him while it dried.  It shrank a bit when it dried and then I sanded the top to a level.  That was all it took.  He held at 6:00 on the black and it printed 1" above the X at 25 yds, just about where it should have hit.  

You can always just pick the caulk off afterwards but that is a quick and inexpensive way to determine what sort of a front sight adjustment you might need.   If you go with the adjustable sights you should be able to achieve your desired sight picture and the X-ring impact you want.  

Good luck and let us know how this turns out.  Mikey.

[Bob_K]

Shane...

Sounds like you're getting into bullseye pistol.  Ultimately you'll need to do 3-4 things to your pistol to make it shoot better than you can hold.

You will need a match barrel.  Kart or Barsto make some mighty fine match barrels, with Kart being just a bit less expensive.  These will have to be fitted by a qualified gunsmith.  You'll never shoot better than the inherent accuracy of a properly fitted match barrel.

You'll need a match trigger and trigger job.  Videki makes a good match trigger with triggerstop at reasonale cost, plus they are available in long and standard length, depending on your taskes and length of your trigger finger.  The trigger job is another that a gunsmith should do for you.  This smooths up the parts and sets the trigger weight to 3.5 lbs for a wad gun, or 4 lbs for a hardball gun.  Done incorrectly, the pistol can be unsafe and be prone to double or even worse, go full auto.  Without a quality trigger, you have a difficult time executing the shot with any accuracy.

You'll need match adjustable sights, and Bomar is the universal standard, if you are going for open sights.  If you opt for a red dot sight, Ultradot is not a bad choice.  You need a clear, precise aiming reference that match sights privide.

Your Springfield is one of the best platforms to build up a full match grade pistiol, plus you don't have to do it all at once.  You can space these modifications out over time as finances permit.  It is a toss up in what order to do the mods, but I generally suggest a trigger job, match sights, and finally a match barrel.  Some standard pistols have adequate barrels from the get go, so that is why you can wait a bit.  In your case, the first option may be sights.

If you are not getting into bullseye in earnest, then less expensive sights will do.  You may decide that a set of high visibility fixed sights meet your needs.  MGW makes a nice set.

[Shane in WI]

I have been shooting bullseye every week @ 25 yards.  Been getting much better as well getting 8 or 9 into the 9 & 10 ring.  Just found that I shoot about 2-3" low and have to aim at 12 oclock to hit center.  I think I will have adj. sights and a trigger installed.  the guns I've tried with the longer trigger seem to feel better in my hand.
Thanks for the advice.