Application of TRU-OIL

[*ROCK-MAN*]

What do you use to apply the oil?Rag the wool or what?
Thanks,
Rock

[torpedoman]

fingers almost anything else can leave something to ruin the finish

[quickdtoo]

Ditto on fingers, I've never used anything else. 

Tim

[*ROCK-MAN*]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.I'm gonna try to doctor up a plain jane birch finish on my daughter's rem mohawk 243 for her.Can sand paper be used instead of wool and if so what grit?Only asking because I can get the scotchbrite from work.
Thanks again,
Rock

[wink_man]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.I'm gonna try to doctor up a plain jane birch finish on my daughter's rem mohawk 243 for her.Can sand paper be used instead of wool and if so what grit?Only asking because I can get the scotchbrite from work.
Thanks again,
Rock

Exactly how are you trying to 'doctor' it up? Is is deeply scratched, into the wood, or just the finish? Are you planning to put a coat of tru-oil over the exisiting finish, or strip it completely, and refinish it?   

[*ROCK-MAN*]

I'm not really sure and thats why I'm asking advice.The stock is in overall good condition but does have some light scratchs and marring.Most of it in the butt area.All advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Rock

[wink_man]

You state that the wood is birch(hardwood). I didn't think Remington made a Mohawk in hardwood, only walnut, but I certainly could be wrong.

In any event, as long as the scratches are only in the finish, and not in the stain, you could probably just go over the existing finish with Tru-oil and get good results. I've done it many times, as long as there are no deep dents in the wood that can't be steamed out with an iron, and the scratches don't go past the stain, into the lighter hardwood, it should come out ok.

First, I steam out any dents, with a damp rag and an iron overtop of it. Then, lightly sand the finish with 400 grit wet & dry sandpaper, to smooth out any scratches and remove the gloss shine so the Tru-oil has a good surface to adhere to. You don't want to sand down to bare wood, just lightly to give the existing finish a dull look.

Once it is all prepped, take  a drop or 2 of Tru-oil, and dab in on the checkering. Work in into the checkeing with an old soft toothbrush. Do this once to twice and let it dry thoroughly till you're satisfied with the checkering. Then you proceed with the rest of the stock. Tru-oil should only be applied with your index finger. You put it on very thin, I call it 'paper thin' and smooth it out with your finger. I usually work it into the area in a circular motion, then smooth it out with my index finger. Work around the checkering, as you've done it already, and don't want the holes filing with tru-oil. You can put as many coats as you want over it till you're satisfied, and at worst case, if you're not happy with it, you can always strip it down to bare wood and start over, with no damage done.

The key to using tru-oil is applying it with your index finger, and 'paper thin' coats, as many times as needed till your satisfied with it.

[*ROCK-MAN*]

Thanks Wink-Man.I'm not sure of the wood.You'r probably right it just looked lighter and not much grain to it as my other Remmys.I really appreciate the good advice bud and I know my daughter will to.
Later,
Rock

[wink_man]

Here's a couple of pics of an 870 stock set I just re did in the above described manner. This is an older set, walnut, with that original Dupont 'RKW bowling pin' finish. 2 coats of Tru-Oil over top of the original finish, and it looks pretty close to brand new. To be fair, the original wood finish wasn't to bad, but it did show wear, a few scratches and was dull in spots. Not bad for a beater set, LOL.

[victorcharlie]

I cut the tru oil 50/50 with mineral spirits and spray it on with an air brush.......

[*ROCK-MAN*]

Can it be done with the rifle assembled with good results or should I take it down?
Can I use the tru-oil for a final finish on a pepper laminate stock?
Thanks again,
Rock

[muskeg13]

I'm using it now to refinish oak counter tops and trim in my bathrooms.  I have a large bottle that was starting to set up, and decided use it to redo the counters while my wife is away.  I'm putting on much heavier coats (than with a gun stock) with a cotton cloth, but I'm rubbing the oil in and plan to buff the gloss off with 0000 steel wool.

[gunnut69]

W'mans explanation is a very good one and most use some close variation of his process...(different finger?? Actually I have even been known to rub it out with the heel of the hand...  I like to steel wool after a couple of coats on bare wood until the pores in the wood are filled.. Of course with a coat applied over existing finish the pores, most anyhow, will be filled already.  You will have much better luck with the rifle disassembled for the re-finishing process..

[burntmuch]

Wink man. that is a beautiful stock set

[Rangr44]

If you decide to do a full refinish - don't sand the stock.

Strip it with something like Formby's Furniture Refinisher (WallyWorld) on a new OOOO steel wool pad, then stain it with your choice of a Min-Wax stain/sealer, then Tru-Oil it for a final finish.

[wink_man]

W'mans explanation is a very good one and most use some close variation of his process...(different finger?? Actually I have even been known to rub it out with the heel of the hand...  I like to steel wool after a couple of coats on bare wood until the pores in the wood are filled.. Of course with a coat applied over existing finish the pores, most anyhow, will be filled already.  You will have much better luck with the rifle disassembled for the re-finishing process..

On a complete refinish, there is a very easy and efficient way to fill the wood pores, and have them filled 99% with the sealer coat applied. What I do is, I do my final sanding of the bare wood with WORN OUT 400 grit wet & dry. Sand till the wood dust fills the pores, the pores will look white in color from the wood dust. Do NOT remove any of the wood dust from the stock, and do not shake or tap the stock, or the wood dust comes out. At this point, without wiping any of the wood dust off, apply your 'sealer' coat of Tru-oil, rub it in thoroughly, and as it dries, it will look half dull, half shiny in spots. Let this cure for 2 days. Then buff the sealer coat out smooth with 4/0 steel wool. Buff it till it's smooth, and looks like a dull oil finish uniformly all over. You will see now that 99% of the wood pores are completely filled, sealed, and now dark black in color. If you do it this way, when you apply your first finish coat of Tru_oil, the stock will already have a high gloss, and actually look like it's done on the first finish coat. Then, just apply additional coats till you're happy with it.
Here is an example of a stock done that way. This was rough cut walnut from Macon gunstocks. It was fitted to the metal of the gun, then sanded down to a final sanding of WORN OUT 400 grit wet & dry as described. It only has the 'sealer' coat on it, and you can see that the pores are filled nicely, it is dull in color as described, and ready for the finish coats to be applied. Hope this helps.

[wink_man]

Can it be done with the rifle assembled with good results or should I take it down?
Can I use the tru-oil for a final finish on a pepper laminate stock?
Thanks again,
Rock

Rock,
     There is no way you can do a proper job, either to 'doctor' it up, or a complete refinish, without removing the wood from the gun, no shortcuts there.

     Tru_oil will work fine on a laminate stock, just as long as it's prepared properly, same as any other wood. Tru-oil will bind to pretty much any surface if the surface is clean, I even use it on the receivers of my Savage 24s to preserve and protect the case coloring on them, just one very fine paper thin coat on a clean receiver, haven't had one peel or anything else yet.

[Tackleberry]

It's too bad Birchwood Casey Cannot figure out how to make a aerosol can of True Oil that will spray the first time (that is a miracle) and then spray again after that. Inverting the can after spraying just holds off the inevitable only so long--the clog.

Spray True Oil is my favorite way to finish a stock, with 5/0   (that's 00000) steel wool in between each coat  to put a toothe on it and cut down any dust mites that have landed. 5 coats will fill the pores pretty effectively. Hand rubbing each coat ensures no buildup in the wrong places. a light coat is all you need. My minimum coatage is about 10 coats. FOr my final finish, I hand rub the finish with Rottenstone. Very gently rub out the stock with a felt pad dipped in mineral oil (bABY OIL) Then Dip it into a bowl of rottenstone . It will cut the gloss very gently and leave a satin eggshell sheen with a pleasing glow. I finish up with a coat of carnuba based furniture wax.

I'm going to try the 1/2  cut  True oil in a air gun as mentioned before. The bottled True Oil is fine, dries quick, so I'm going to try it. 

[Mckie Hollow]

Try this - cut the True oil with Mineral Spirits, Apply with Micro Fiber cloth ( Min. Oil), Wipe off with cheap Napkins ( The ones that absorb a little, but not much).  Many & Very Thin coats are what works.