Author Topic: Contender trigger job questions  (Read 1438 times)

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Offline 444eee

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Contender trigger job questions
« on: May 11, 2008, 03:15:11 PM »
I am doing a trigger job on my Easy Open Contender, made 1993.  I have some questions:
1. I will be using this frame for silhouette shooting, so what trigger pull weight should I set the trigger at originally before deciding exactly what weight I want?  I am new to silhouette shooting, so I don’t know yet what trigger pull weight is best for me.
2. Should I set the trigger engagement screw half way in while doing the trigger job so I can have as much flexibility in increasing and decreasing the trigger pull?
3. It seems Mike Bellm only hones the trigger sear end and the striker where they meet not the hammer or the sear where they meet, so should I leave the contact points where the sear and hammer meet alone?
4. My frame is stainless, so measuring my honing progress will probably be more difficult.  Will I be able to accurately determine how much progress I’m making with a magnifying glass?  Just a few strokes with a Bellm EZE lap or Wyoming stone per surface area should be sufficient, correct?       
5.  I lost the sear spring.  Should I just order another from Thompson or are Trapper or another brand of springs better?  I think Trapper has a Contender spring kit.
Thanks for any replies.

Offline hunterspistol

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Re: Contender trigger job questions
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2008, 04:00:19 PM »
 ;)   The sear doesn't take all that much to sharpen, I've done it on mine. Have one that has a real light trigger-the trigger spring , the little one up front under the button, is clipped with fingernail clippers. This is actually the best trigger I've got. The problem with doing that is  if you cut too much off the spring, it ceases to work.
By sear, I'm guessing you mean the little triangle wedge that goes to the hook on the back of the trigger. We use just a little emery cloth-or like you suggested, a stone-to sharpen the underside of the little hook and  the point of the sear(by sharpening the angle, or taking down the angle). I have had one sear that had a factory groove down it, I took it out.

You aren't the only one to lose a spring, first time I took the trigger assembly apart, I shot that little brass trigger spring off the ceiling, off the wall, across the room, etc. I think it bounced 3 or 4 times. There I was, down on the floor, with a flashlight.  When I gave up, there it was, at my feet! It made it all the way around the room back to me!
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Offline chazgin

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Re: Contender trigger job questions
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2008, 04:37:34 PM »
IMHSA rules are 2 lbs for the trigger pull

Offline WayneS

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Re: Contender trigger job questions
« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2008, 10:22:59 PM »
IMHSA rules are 2 lbs for the trigger pull
since t when ?, It just has to be safe, at big matches sometime it is checked by cocking it and then "bumping" rip, if the hammer dosen't fall it's safe.