Author Topic: Lets talk Rats! (Read 1461 times)

four coil · « **on:** June 11, 2008, 03:06:47 PM »

This fall I hope to get my feet wet more than I did last fall. Have few spots that I didn't set last year that produced the year before, and with all the rain maybe some spots that the water levels dropped will rebound. With that said, Lets talk Rats! How do you go about getting them? How long between checks? How many checks before you move? Maybe this year in WI we might be able to use colony traps. I will be trapping them in streams, beaver ponds, rivers, the Bay of Green Bay, storm retention ponds, and marinas. I use foot holds, conis, and floats, and maybe colony traps?
Shawn

blakdog · « **Reply #1 on:** June 11, 2008, 03:21:26 PM »

I like using running poles!

Maze · « **Reply #2 on:** June 11, 2008, 06:00:46 PM »

If you have a big enough area with plenty of rats, you could catch some beofre you get done setting the area.

Bogmaster · « **Reply #3 on:** June 11, 2008, 06:38:56 PM »

I check sets every day. My #1 rat producer is a number 1 stoploss. It is my belief a #160 will out perform a #110, I do love colony traps, but have very few spots for them.
I set the sides of the rat houses in open water, and by relying on the stop loss,I also take several mink,coon and beaver in my rat sets.
Good topic,one close to my heart.
Tom

andytrapper · « **Reply #4 on:** June 12, 2008, 04:39:50 AM »

I 2nd what bog said, what he uses is what i use, wonder how that happened (he, he)and iyou will pile up the rats pretty fast with those stoploss. It you got lot of rats houses and sign (set it heavy) and check every it every day if you can. I dont move the set unless i have not caught anything their for a week or so but it also depends on time you have to trap.

Andy

four coil · « **Reply #5 on:** June 12, 2008, 11:54:05 AM »

I have a couple of spots that I've trapped in the past that I had to use floats. One in particular is a bunch of storm retention ponds that are surrounded by that @#@$#@ phragmite (spelling?), so its a pain to get to. I'm wondering what WI is going to allow for colony traps. I've got some ideas for a floating colony trap. Because its such a pain to trap this spot I would like to hit it hard and get out.
Shawn

Macthediver · « **Reply #6 on:** June 13, 2008, 03:44:28 AM »

I'm a bank setter and set mostly #1 stoploss type traps on slides, I do 110 the stuff that jumps right out. I got started setting this way on creeks where bank holes weren't real obvious. I found when I take this method to the big river I don't have to compete with all the guys running for the rat houses. I for the most part have the high banks and slides for the stoplosses to myself. Everyone else is 110ing the shallow water runs and houses.
JMTCW

Mac

blakdog · « **Reply #7 on:** June 13, 2008, 08:21:48 AM »

Quote from: four coil on June 12, 2008, 11:54:05 AM

I have a couple of spots that I've trapped in the past that I had to use floats. One in particular is a bunch of storm retention ponds that are surrounded by that @#@$#@ phragmite (spelling?), so its a pain to get to. I'm wondering what WI is going to allow for colony traps. I've got some ideas for a floating colony trap. Because its such a pain to trap this spot I would like to hit it hard and get out.
Shawn

Hey thats where i'm trapping rats come fall!! As long as the rats have bushy tails! LOL
Troy

four coil · « **Reply #8 on:** June 13, 2008, 12:08:45 PM »

Troy there is plenty of room for the both of us. I'll stay in the water and you can have all the land to yourself along with the other guys who trap there. There aren't many secret spots around Green Bay.
Shawn

four coil · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2008, 12:22:23 PM »

Tom, last night I reread "Ten rounds with a muskrat house." I hope an area that I have trapped in the past has enough water and rats to use that technique this year. It works great. Most of the houses have a deep side that are almost vertical. That is where I did the most damage. The slides also where productive but I lost plenty of rats to coons and otters. This spot also produced an otter for me and I should get a tag for one this year.
Shawn

blakdog · « **Reply #10 on:** June 13, 2008, 12:35:34 PM »

Shawn, Its all yours!! The only time i get in the water is to trap beaver & shower! Since i'm not working i don't shower that often!! LOL
Troy

four coil · « **Reply #11 on:** June 18, 2008, 03:01:38 PM »

Tom, I know that sometimes you set a single spring 160 for rats. Do you put anything across the trigger wires to help catch any mink that might cross the jaws? Why only the single spring? I know that it is plenty strong, I'm just trying to drum up some conversation. What do you use to stabilize your 160's? When I set 110's or 160's in the water I found the 1" square hardwood stake that you use for staking your rat sets works great. Also whats the difference in price between the single spring 160's and the double?
Shawn

Bogmaster · « **Reply #12 on:** June 23, 2008, 11:00:18 AM »

Shawn, was gone for FTA when this was posted--thats why a responce took so long.
The single spring 160s are 64.95 a doz, which is 12.00 to 14.00 cheaper than the doubles.You can put a fine wire between the trigger wires, if you are concerned about mink, misses.I use some of my stabilizers on the 160s.
Tom

four coil · « **Reply #13 on:** June 23, 2008, 03:28:19 PM »

Tom, I have a few 160's that I think that I'm going to retire to my water line. They're OK in the strength department, but I'd hate to have a fisher power out of one of them. I fear that I will probably like them more that the dozens of 110's I already own.
Shawn

Bogmaster · « **Reply #14 on:** June 23, 2008, 05:49:09 PM »

I imagine you will find the 160 more to your liking than the 110s.Cover the wider runs so much better than a 110, and less avoidence problems.
Tom

blakdog · « **Reply #15 on:** July 04, 2008, 05:49:45 PM »

OK!! I broke down and turned running poles into 'rat floats!! I hope the waterboys like that! I also traded a guy for 2 1/2 doz. #1 jumps!! Nice little traps! I'm going to have to take full advantage of ALL the fur along my route this year!

Bogmaster · « **Reply #16 on:** July 04, 2008, 06:04:32 PM »

The #1 jumps, are a very light trap. The only time I use any--and I have dozens of Blake and Lambs, is when I use floats. You want no vegetation or any obstructions for the rats to hang up on. When using jumps--the rat needs a clear, wide open area to deep water.
Tom

blakdog · « **Reply #17 on:** July 05, 2008, 04:59:58 AM »

Tom, The chains are 30" long that should help with the weight factor? That should be enough weight? I hope so! If not what else could a guy do? I do think that i'll be running mostly floats.
Troy

bblwi · « **Reply #18 on:** July 11, 2008, 05:06:25 PM »

I am a lot like Tom. I set mostly 1 stoploss traps or 1.5 stoploss and or 1.5 single longs where there is deeper water. I have made a couple dozen floats just for #2 square jaw Victor traps to try out this fall, with wire over the top to avoid water fowl etc.

I set pretty heavy, check every day and move about 1/3rd of the line each day so I have fresh sets. As to 160s I have used 160s for rats and they work well. I have left the safety catch on one spring and that works well for me. I don't use body grippers too much for rats but hope to increase their use in my line for later season bottom edge sets as those are 4 day check sets.

Bryce

four coil · « **Reply #19 on:** July 20, 2008, 03:25:37 PM »

Anyone know what is going on with colony traps in Wisconsin?
Shawn

Bogmaster · « **Reply #20 on:** July 20, 2008, 04:57:29 PM »

From what I heard, colonies didn't make it. Thats to bad, they are a very good tool.
Tom

four coil · « **Reply #21 on:** July 21, 2008, 02:52:09 AM »

Thanks, Maybe next year.
Shawn

jpbar · « **Reply #22 on:** August 14, 2008, 01:48:49 PM »

never used colony traps before, I use 110's underwater and i started to try floats this year, it worked out ok!