Patch lube and fixed sites ?s

[Stuart C.]

Couple quick questions please.

1.) I was about to mix up some patch lube of Bees wax, Castor Oil and Murphy's oil soap, but 16 oz of beeswax was as hard as a brick and costs $15.00.  Since the price of spit is relatively low, and works pretty well, I was wondering if the beeswax castor oil Murphy's mixture is worth it.  Does the lube remain plyable after you melt the beeswax and add the oils? The beeswax I found at a store was hard as a rock.

2.) Where would you look for nice fixed sites for muzzleloaders and bp cartridge rifles?

Thanks!

[flintlock]

Spit is fine if you plan to shoot right after you load, if you are hunting, you need a lube...For 25 years or so I used SnoSeal as a lube and it worked pretty well...Last year I made a batch of the lube you are talking about and it seems to work even better as an insulator and retards patch burn out...I paid $10 for a pound of bees wax from Hobby Lobby, some guys have access to a local beekeeper and can buy cheaper, I have also heard of some buying a 2oz container from a plumbers store...If you use 2 oz bees wax and 8 0z Castor Oil and 1 oz of Murphy's Oil soap, you will end up with almost a pint jar of lube, which will last a pretty good while...I figure I have enough bees wax to last me a few years...

The SnoSeal got pretty runny in the summer, this mix is harder and works fine for me down here in NC...If you want it softer you can remelt and add more Castor Oil...

I put a measuring cup in an electric fry pan that had about 2 inches of water in it, I then started cutting off bees wax and letting it melt until I had about 2 oz melted, then I added the other ingredients and let it remelt and mix...Then I poured some in tins and the rest in a pint jar and put a lid on it for later use...

To apply, take a putty knife and apply to both side of your pillow  ticking, I usually cut mine about 2 feet long and a inch and a half wide...If you put newspapers under the ticking you don't make a mess...Then roll up the lubed ticking, put on a paper plate and microwave on high for about 20-25 seconds, this helps melt and distribute the lube through the ticking...

I'd look for the sights at Track on the Wolf...

[longcaribiner]

When I shoot, I shoot 50 or 60 shots.  I use spit.  One or two shots isn't worth dirtying up the gun.  When I hunt, I use a mix of bees wax and crisco. 

Fixed sights, Dixie Gun works, Track of the Wolf,  there must be seven or eight muzzleloader parts suppliers that can provide all manner of sights.

[catman]

I know this is a old thread, but for my patch lube range sessions I use a mixture of a 1/4 cup of Ballistol and 1 cup of water this will last me for a year. I use the walmart pillow ticking (red stripe color sorry) I make my patches and lay them out on a flat surface spray them down well and let them dry out on a paper towel (for a couple of days). After they dry and when I say dry the water will evaporate out of them and the patch is ready with kind of a dry lube on it.

I've started using them for hunting with a piece of wasp nest on top of the powder (I'm cheep and we have lots of wasp here) to not to contaminate my powder, just in case. I do this with a .50 cal and a .54 cal PRB and get great groups @ 25 & 50 yards, in my woods you can't see past 50 yards max when it's ML season for shot.

[captchee]

 i use only spit patches  for hunting or other . never had a problem  ever.

as to your question about  bee's wax . how hard and stiff it gets depends on
1) the grade of bee's wax
2) the % of the  wax you use .
a good soft yellow bee's wax will stay sticky  and get runny in warm weather .
 i know fellas who use the fresh  brown bee's wax  on rolls of ticking becouse it holds the ticking nicly in the roll .
 but again , i use spit and only spit . never had it frezze , never had it dry out "well that i know of anyway " and the balls always shoot to where i aim