Ruger SBH cylinder end shake.

[30WCF]

What is everyone's preferred fix to cylinder end shake on a single action? I have a nice old SBH except over time it has gotten enough end shake to nearly close up all the cylinder to barrel clearance and the headspacing according to Ruger is almost to the max. If I hold the cylinder to the rear everything checks out perfectly, the question is how is the best way to hold it there? I could make a small shim but would be a pain every time I remove the cylinder. I dont want the rest of the gun messed with and Ruger said they wont work on it without changing it over to a transfer bar.

[Kmrere42]

Hi,


There are 2 ways that I know to fix the problem.


1)  Buy a replacement cylinder from Brownell's  and have it fitted and thus save your original cylinder.

2)  Have a QUALITY gunsmith machine the front of your cylinder and put in a bushing like the original Colts have.  A base mountain pin would go a long way to helping out as well.



Paul

[Racer X]

I would send it to a reputable smith such as Alan Harton and let him do it correctly. Also set barrel/cylinder gap to minimum and oversize base pin.

[30WCF]

The barrel/cylinder gap must have been at a minimum to begin with, I'm amazed the cylinder is practically rubbing the barrel with no more end shake than it has. If the cylinder is held back the headspacing and gap will be perfect. I haven't seen any work around here from any smiths that I would let work on it. I just reworked a 1911 for a friend that he had a gunsmith who everyone says is the best around here work on. I had to take it apart and remachine the new parts for everything to fit correctly. I'm sure there is someone around who could do it but I dont know who. If Ruger would do it without messing with the rest of the gun I would send it to them.
I normally work on my own guns but I'm in unfamiliar water here. If I could see one done or a tutorial I wouldn't be afraid to machine the cylinder and make a bushing myself.

[Kmrere42]

I was working over some aluminum cans for making gas checks and had one of thoes DUH moments.  If you can get to a lathe of know someone who can make it for you,  Make a free check tool in the appropriate size and make a bushing for the front end of your cylinder.  Instead of aluminum cans use the appropriate thickness brass shim stock.  Thus you can make your own bushings in the thickness you need and not fiddle with washers.





Paul

[30WCF]

How are the bushings made and fitted to the cylinder? Making it or doing necessary machining to the cylinder isn't a problem, I'm a knifemaker and have a machine shop at home. Making washers the right thickness is easy but would have to fiddle with lining it up when putting the cylinder back in the gun each time. I've done searches but cant seem to come up with anything.

Thanks for the info everyone.

[Lloyd Smale]

send it to ruger and id about bet theyd fit a new cylinder for free.

[30WCF]

I may just send it to Ruger, they'll change it but could put my old parts back in it when I get it back. I just want to keep the action the way it is. Plus the trigger is sweet.

[Racer X]

I may just send it to Ruger, they'll change it but could put my old parts back in it when I get it back. I just want to keep the action the way it is. Plus the trigger is sweet.

I sent a GP-100 back after I paid a smith to set the barrel/cylinder gap and messed it up. Ruger fixed the gun but undid my nice 2-3/4 lb single action trigger pull.
However, Lloyd has a good point. I have heard of Ruger practically re-building old battered guns for nothing. If you don't have a bunch of custom work invested in the gun, I would send it to Ruger.

[30WCF]

I haven't done anything to it except a nice trigger job which I'm sure they would undo when they convert it. They lady made a point to tell me they wont work on the guns without a transfer bar without changing it.

Has anyone had Ruger change over the older guns? How bad does it screw it up for me to put it back like it is. Supposedly they send all the old parts back with it.

[safetysheriff]

I just reworked a 1911 for a friend that he had a gunsmith who everyone says is the best around here work on. I had to take it apart and remachine the new parts for everything to fit correctly.

30'

if the above is true, then why don't you do the ''remachine'' on this one?    buy a universal base pin bushing from powercustom.net.   install it in the front of the cylinder, while removing .002 to .005" (?) off the back of the cylinder where the pawl/hand engages it to make the cylinder turn (to reduce headspace).   shim the base pin bushing (shims provided) to make sure that the cylinder ends up with approx' .002 to .0025" end play.   

pull the barrel and set it back one thread or two while adjusting the length of the forcing cone to achieve proper barrel/cylinder gap of approx'  .0035".    if you just reduce the headspace and don't move the barrel back you will have opened up the b/c gap too much i'd expect.    you'll lose performance and make more noise !     after achieving proper b/c gap, do a ''taylor throating'' to the forcing cone and THEN go shooting.     

does this make sense?

ss'   

[30WCF]

sheriff, thanks for the post, I'll check powercustom.net. I've looked at the bushings in Brownell's. Doing the machining wouldnt be a problem as long as I know how it should be done I havent seen one with the bushing installed in the cylinder to know how its supposed to be machined. The barrel doesnt need to be set back and the back of the cylinder doesnt need machining. The headspace is right when the cylinder is held to the rear and the barrel to cylinder gap is right. The cylinder just needs to be held back and take out the excess end shake and keep the cylinder away from the barrel because its basicly rubbing it now. Shims would do the job but would rather not mess with them every time the cylinder comes out.