Author Topic: 10/22 problem  (Read 1862 times)

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Offline jpuke

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10/22 problem
« on: July 30, 2003, 08:56:23 AM »
Have any of you guys put any Volquartsen trigger parts in your 10/22's?
I spent a couple of hours this weekend putting in a new sear, hammer, and trigger.  The trigger pull is exceptional now, but, the trigger doesn't always reset itself.  I set the overtravel screw so that it would stop the trigger just at the point that the hammer would get released.  My problem is that now my trigger doesn't go back on a consistent basis.  Do I need to let the trigger travel some more?  I lubed up the spring-loaded trigger plunger (?) and this worked for about 20 straight rounds, then it started hanging up on me again.  Any ideas?  The other problem is that now the safety doesn't slide into the safe position either, I don't use the safety, (except for the one between my ears) but I would like it to work if I decided to use it.

Offline Lee D.

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10/22 problem
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2003, 06:30:48 AM »
If you don't use your saftey I would never tell you how to fix a broken gun.
somewhere betwixt a baulk and a breakdown

Offline myronman3

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2003, 10:24:18 AM »
Quote from: jpuke
...I don't use the safety, (except for the one between my ears) ...quote]
that is one of the stupidest things i have read here, ever.    i am with lee d
1000%

Offline His lordship.

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I am with jpuke on the safety.
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2003, 12:22:39 PM »
Jpuke, have you considered contacting Volquertson on the problem?  My local libraries have books on gunsmithing, you could check your library establishment.  The internet may have something too, use Ruger 10/22, .22 rimfire, gunsmith, etc. as keywords, get some coffee and surf.  Let us know how it worked out as I too am looking at the same setup you have, down the road, I really like a good trigger pull :grin: .

Concerning mechanical safeties on firearms...I learned with black powder, let the hammer rest on the loaded nipple while carrying, simply don't point the muzzle at people or things you don't intend to shoot, don't bump the gun, keeps the dings down that way!  The French and Russian armies issued guns that did not have safeties (Tokarev pistol, MAS 36 rifle, etc.)

I had a guy at a local gun club in the mid-1990's with a Savage shotgun that would apply the safety all the time, then release when he came to the trap/skeet line for some clays.  The safety wore out and the shotgun discharged into the ground near my feet! :x   Because he used common sense and pointed it in a safe direction I did not get shot.  Remington has been involved in a law suit where a guy released the safety on his M 700 and blew his foot completely off.  

I do use the safety when climbing a fence or tree log while hunting.  Otherwise  I never the a safety device, just use common sense and point the gun away from people, etc.

Offline myronman3

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Re: I am with jpuke on the safety.
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2003, 05:40:28 PM »
Quote from:

I do use the safety when climbing a fence or tree log while hunting.  Otherwise  I never the a safety device, just use common sense and point the gun away from people, etc.[/quote

i try real hard not to blast folks for having different opinions.   you guys are begging for trouble.  what is sooo important that you cant take that extra split second to take the safty off?   NOTHING!!!
this is every bit as stupid as the first person.   i hope to god i am wrong, but you guys are flirting with disaster.    :(

Offline ccanevit

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10/22 problem
« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2003, 03:24:20 AM »
We should all understand, that the safety is there for a reason. However, it is a mechanical device that can fail. Hence, you need to be conscious of what you are doing, and the ultimate safety ends up being, what's "between yoru ears" as you guys are saying.

Compromise guys, use both, You can never be too safe. Put your safety on, but treat it like your safety is off all the time, then if it ever does fail, you had a backup safety by pointing the muzzle in a safe direction.

Offline Lee D.

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10/22 problem
« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2003, 01:56:42 AM »
There is no compromise involved.  That is the way anyone who ever touches a firearm should act.  I don't see this saftey issue should have any compromises.
somewhere betwixt a baulk and a breakdown

Offline daddywpb

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10/22 problem
« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2003, 01:45:47 AM »
I put the same parts in my daughter's 10/22 with no problems. You might try backing off the stop screw just a tad. If that doesn't work, call Volquartsen.

Offline daddywpb

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10/22 problem
« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2003, 01:49:36 AM »
Oh yeah, almost forgot. There shouldn't even be a discussion of whether or not to use a safety. ALWAYS use the safety. I had a 'friend' that put a hole in the floorboard of my car - he didn't believe in safeties either. The one in between your ears is prone to failure once in a while too.

Offline HuntingGuy

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10/22 problem
« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2003, 09:08:15 AM »
Safeties... Can... Fail    :)
HuntingGuy
Hunting in Minnesota Moderator

"You can take the boy out of the country, but you can't take the country out of the boy"

Offline Tdot

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10/22 problem
« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2003, 06:12:18 PM »
YOU DON'T USE THE SAFETY  / YOU DON'T HUNT OR SHOOT WITH ME!!!!!!
Jerry

Offline gunnut69

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10/22 problem
« Reply #11 on: October 25, 2003, 08:44:14 AM »
There's probably a bit much slack in the trigger disconnector assembly.. or perhaps a burr somewhere.  The minimal return spring pressure can amplify these kinkds of problems..  Turn the stop back a bit to allow the mechanism room to work,..
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline mutwagn

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2003, 06:18:31 AM »
Quote from: jpuke
Have any of you guys put any Volquartsen trigger parts in your 10/22's?
I spent a couple of hours this weekend putting in a new sear, hammer, and trigger.  The trigger pull is exceptional now, but, the trigger doesn't always reset itself.  I set the overtravel screw so that it would stop the trigger just at the point that the hammer would get released.  My problem is that now my trigger doesn't go back on a consistent basis.  Do I need to let the trigger travel some more?  I lubed up the spring-loaded trigger plunger (?) and this worked for about 20 straight rounds, then it started hanging up on me again.  Any ideas?  The other problem is that now the safety doesn't slide into the safe position either, I don't use the safety, (except for the one between my ears) but I would like it to work if I decided to use it.


 Try taking you trigger return plunger and spring out, and swap it end for end. This should let your trigger reset, and this will give you a better trigger pull to boot. Sometimes there is a bit of drag on the plunger and this will eliminate it. All that is needed is enough spring to over come any resistance to the trigger returning to ready, and the Volq. should do fine with the plunger in the hole instead of the spring. If this doen't work, make sure your trigger isn't binding on the pivot pin, it should pivot freely. And you may want to put the factory plunger spring back in.
 If you go to rimfirecentral.com and read the posts under the 10/22 Action forum, you will find that most people prefer to replace only the hammer with the one from Volquartsen. The kit you have installed needs to have the sear properly fit to the hammer and safety for your gun. This is why you saftey will not function. I have been the route you are doing, and unless you are practiced at precision fitting/stoning of parts, and understand there working  relationship, it can be iffy. I still have the extra sear from the kit, as I went back and removed it, as I prefer a safety that works. And I still have a 2lb trigger with out it.
 For future knowledge, not to long ago, Volquartsen offered on there website in the bargin bin, a factory factory sear and disconnector that had been nickled plated for a smoother surface area on the contact points of the two parts. These are a bargin, fitting isn't needed, and a bit of difference is evident in the trigger. If you evere see them pick up a set or 2. For the $6.00 that was charged it was a bargin.
 One other thing, the best trigger job you can do on a 10/22 is to replace the whole assembly with a Kidd trigger, but the cost is equal to or greater than some or a lot of 10/22 rifles.
 I'll shut up now,  :)  Andy
"Suppose you were an idiot . . . . And suppose you were  member of Congress . . . . But I repeat myself."  Mark Twain