Looking for a better case lube option.

[B. Miville]

Hey folks,

So right now I use RCBS pump spray case lube (it is the only stuff locally not in aerosol form).  I usually line up about 75+ cases (depending on size) on a large plastic cat litter lid I have a zap them all.  Problem is I am getting a bit sick and tired of the very very sticky mess that comes with this method.  So I am looking for some better options.  So I am considering switching to somthing like Imperial wax or the Hornady Unique wax.  My question is, would these types of lubes lend themselves well to being used with some kind of lube pad, or is it finger add only?  And if so, is it time consuming to the point of not being worth it?  Does anyone have a better suggestion?  I am not worried about cleaning up cases after sizing since I usually throw cases back into the tumbler for 20 minutes to remove the lube, and I would have no issue with continuing this practice with a new lube.

Brian

[charles p]

For bottle neck casses I like to use the Lee product that comes in a tube.  It is a white paste.  I put a dab on top of the knuckle of my left little finger.  I pick up a case with my right hand and touch the neck to the lube.  Using my thumb and index finger I lube the neck of the cartridge.  If I have a little extra on my fingers I'll do the next cartridge without adding more lube.

I can do it easier than I can discribe it.  The Lee product does not make a mess nor does it cause oil dents.  A little goes a very long ways and there is nothing to clean but my hands. 

[Dave in WV]

I've used Hornady's one shot lube, Lee's white water based lube (as mentioned), and Imperial wax. I like the Imperial wax lube best. It is a little time consuming compared to spraying lube on cases. The Lee lube is great for inside the neck lube using a Q-tip.

[mjbgalt]

i use nothing but hornady spray wax lube. no mess, no cleaning brass, etc. all you do is spray it on and roll the brass on a clean towel to apply it.

-Matt

[Grumulkin]

I use Imperial Sizing Wax for everything.  It makes very little mess, is not time consuming to use and, though applied with the fingers, isn't hard on the hands.  A little goes a LONG ways.

[LaOtto222]

I mostly use RCBS case lube-2 and a pad. It is water soluble. What does that mean? After lubing the cases including the inside of the neck and sizing, I just rinse them in warm water. I then spread them out on a towel to dry. If I am in a real hurry I pop them in an oven for a few minutes to dry. If the pad gets dirty, I rinse it under the tap with a little soap to wash and let it dry over night. A little lube on the pad goes a long way. When it gets a little too low on lube, I put a small bead down the center of the pad and spread it around on the pad with a piece of thin cardboard to make it even. I have used it for even reducing one case down to another .375 Winchester to 30-30 and 223 to 221 FB with out loosing very many cases.

[Hairtrigger]

I started out using a lube pad then switched to a spray, I tried both pump and aerosol. I now use Imperial sizing wax on all bottle neck cases, just a bit on my finger and thumb as I keep my other hand on the lever operating my press.
I do keep spray lube on my bench for pistol cases... just makes things a bit smoother, a pump or two into the gallon sized bag that I have my brass in.
I did not like the spray lube on my 22 caliber cases as it would cause powder bridging if any spray would get into the necks

[warrior1]

just plain hard to beat imerial die sizing lube on the case and graphite on the inside necks.
however, i got a tip for hornady one shot from one of the forums,
the member after cleaning the brass put the cases inside of a plastic bag sprayed the hornady into the bag and tossed the cases in the bag. when he was ready to load that particular caliber he just pulled the desired number of cases lubed the neck with graphite or mica and they just glide thru the press.

[Lloyd Smale]

anymore i use nothing but anyhydrous lanolin. You can get a big tub of it at your pharmacy for about 25 bucks. Even a smaller tub will last you a lifetime but i use it in making bullet lube too. It is the same thing that is used in lee lube and imperial sizing lube. But it is the lubricant used in them in full strenght. What i do is dip my fingers slightly in the tub and as i pick up the case i give it a quick rub do distribute the lube. Now i can load at about full speed on a 550 dillon doing it like this. Ive found nothing that lubes cases better. I dont get any stuck cases like i did with hornady one shot or other lubes. Even when forming wildcats it is smooth as silk. The only draw back to it is you need to clean it off. When im cranking out a ton of ammo what i tend to do now is size and prime on the 550 then throw them in the tumbler and when there clean put them back on the 550 and finish. For the 6 to 8 dollars a can of one shot cost you can probably buy enough lanolin to last your lifetime

[beemanbeme]

The only method I've ever used is the RCBS case lube and a stamp pad. I bought two bottles of the stuff a looooong time ago and only recently opened the second bottle.  The second bottle will probably be included in my estate.
I roll the cases on the stamp pad, upend the case mouth on the stamp pad like I'm trying to cut a little doughnut out of the pad and run them thru the die. Then into the tumbler they go.  Just another stage of reloading. 
Question: When you size and prime in one operation and then tumble, how do you know you have all the media out of the case?  Sometimes it will clot, especially in the hole between the primer and the case.

[B. Miville]

Thanks everyone,

I think I am going to give Imperial a try (or maybe even try out the lanolin).  I usually tumble dirty cases, then size/de-cap on my single stage press, tumble again to remove the RCBS lube and then load from there.  But it looks like I may be able to speed things up a bit by resizing/de-capping, priming and then the rest of the loading procedure all on my Lee 4 hole turret press.

Brian

[B. Miville]

Just one more question.

I am full length resizing (loading .223 and 6.8 SPC for AR15s), so do I still only add to the neck an shoulder area, or do I work down the case body a little ways too?

Brian

[stimpylu32]

Brian

How far down you lube will depend on the diffrence between your chamber and your sizer die , if you have a tight chamber and a loose die , you may only need to do the top 1/3 ( neck & shoulder ) of the case but if its the other way around you'll have to lube most of the way down .

You can do a couple things to check this , (1) is to use a set of calipers to measure the case from the chamber and then after the FL sizing or (2) you can just lube part way down and try sizing  , if it starts to get tight , stop and lube down more .

stimpy

[LaOtto222]

Beemanbeme - Question: When you size and prime in one operation and then tumble, how do you know you have all the media out of the case?  Sometimes it will clot, especially in the hole between the primer and the case.

That is why I do not do it all in one operation, I used to, but stopped that practice. I used to tumble; then size, de-prime and re-prime all in one operation while I had the case in the press. I just had too many issues. Now - I tumble 1st - then I de-prime in a special universal die for this purpose (it cleans out the primer hole when poking the primer out). While I have the case in my hand after de-priming I look to see if any more material is plugging the hole and use a Lyman inside primer hole deburr tool to clean out the hole to full size + knock out any residual tumbling media left in the case. I run it over a Case Prep Center to clean the primer pocket. I know a lot of you do not clean the primer pocket. Cleaning the primer pocket is no big deal, I already have the case in my hand, just move it over to the station for 2-3 seconds or so and then drop it in a loading block or basket instead of going directly to the basket from knocking out the primer. The cases are ready for resizing now. I then use RCBS Case Lube-2 (water soluble) with a pad, or use a sizing die that does not take lube (preferably). If I use the lube, I then dump the cases into a cut out milk carton after the resizing stage and run some warm water on them and swish it around with my hand for 30 seconds or so. I then drain as much water off as possible and then dump them onto an old towel in an out of the way place and spread them out to dry; I do not have to tumble again by cleaning the solution off with water and it cleans the lube out of the inside as well as the outside. I did about 125 22 Hornet cases last night and set them on a towel. They will be ready to prime and reload tonight.

[fastbike]

Just lube the full case. No increased time, less potential problems.

Just one more question.

I am full length resizing (loading .223 and 6.8 SPC for AR15s), so do I still only add to the neck an shoulder area, or do I work down the case body a little ways too?

Brian

[Dand]

I really like the white lube Hornady puts up in a small plastic tub. I think it works as good as Imperial Die Wax unless you are doing major case forming. I use the Hornady just as described for Imperial - just a little on finger and thumb and roll the case a little as I carry it from loading block to press.  I can use a very very tiny amount and my current tub has lasted for 15 years or more. I wipe each case off with paper towel and that's a bit of a bother but not too bad. But I don't load big quantities - up to 200 at a time at most.  I think it wipes off a little easier than the Imperial.  I tumble my cases nearly every time before sizing to reduce die wear and it makes them easier to lube and clean.

I thought about the spray and water soluble lubes but don't want to wait for cases to dry or risk having water drops remain in a case.

I have carbide sizers for all straight wall (handgun in my case) carts and just tumble cases well before sizing.

[Lloyd Smale]

When i clean rifle cases i use crushed walnut. Its much finer the corn cob and doesnt tend to clump or stay in caes. I also have a flexlight mounted on my press so that i can use it either to look at handgun cases as i load to make sure there charged or not double charged and it is easy to set it to look at cases as you put them in the press to make sure there empty. It becomes second nature to use it and after a while you do it without even thining. I do it even if the cases werent tumbled as ive picked brass up out of a box that had small rocks and spend primers and other things in them and it saves on the decapping pins and dies to take a look before you size. One other god sent thing for doing it like this is a dillon meda seperator. A few cranks on the handle and your rarely have anything left in the cases

The only method I've ever used is the RCBS case lube and a stamp pad. I bought two bottles of the stuff a looooong time ago and only recently opened the second bottle.  The second bottle will probably be included in my estate.
I roll the cases on the stamp pad, upend the case mouth on the stamp pad like I'm trying to cut a little doughnut out of the pad and run them thru the die. Then into the tumbler they go.  Just another stage of reloading. 
Question: When you size and prime in one operation and then tumble, how do you know you have all the media out of the case?  Sometimes it will clot, especially in the hole between the primer and the case.

[warrior1]

with rifle cartridges i tumble clean then complete the reloading process,
when i have the number of desired rounds i take about 4-5 cases at a time spray a bit of lighter fluid into the group then roll that group in the towel
a few times or until clean and dry.