Verticle Stringing .270 NEF

[MSM]

  I have used the NEF Handirifles in .45-70 and .243 for about ten years and find them to be accurate and useable hunting rifles. Recently I acquired a synthetic .270 NEF. I am about 100 rounds into it with four barrel cleanings and the accuracy is not what I have come to expect. My 200 yard groups are averaging 7-1/2" tall X 3" wide. Some stings are as much as 13" tall. These are three shot groups. Three three shot groups on the same target measure 15" tall.
  I used three bullets and two powders all with Federal 210 primers and Remington brass. The loads are (1) 44.2 grains Varget with Sierra 130 grain ProHunter bullets, (2) 46 grains Varget with Sierra 130 grain GameKings, and (3) 59.5 grains of H4831SC with Nosler 130 BallisticTips.
  The rifle was hand picked for its factory 4 pound trigger. The scope is a Nikon ProStaff 3 X 9 X 40 that came off a .264 that was a minuet of angle rifle. The rings and rail are tight. I am consistant in bag placement and tried shooting with the bag all the way up to the trigger gaurd. I snapped the rifle with even consistant force and waited for the barrel to cool between shots. I have not shot the rifle with the fore end off.
  On another note, it took me nearly twenty rounds to wrangle this rifle to zero. It took about 50 clicks to the right to move it to a 100 yard zero. The only thing I can figure is the barrel is bent or the rail is attached a little off.
  Anyway, any advise?

 


 

[petemi]

 :'(I can't really say.  I would think if the rings were off or even the barrel was off the rifle would still chuck bullets consistantly shot after shot.  Still off, but not all over the place.  The scope isn't loose; you've checked that.  I guess I'd get that fore end off and try again.   Check the FAQs for info on that and "O" rings, etc.  I really would find it hard to believe the barrel could be bad, but perhaps it could be.  I guess I'm not much help.       TIM, this guy needs you!!!!   Please help us.  Pete

[PartsMan]

   I have not shot the rifle with the fore end off.

That sound like a good thing to try.
Also, how tight is the latch?

[MSM]

  By latch do you mean the release on the side next to the hammer?
  My .45-70 and my sons .243 have ejectors. This one has an extractor. I thought there was someting wrong with the"ejector" as it was very gummy when I first got the rifle. I remember fiddling with a screw on the thing. Finally I looked at my older rifles and saw they were completely different assemblies. It functions fine, but could this have anything to do with the stinging problem?
  I really preferred the ejector by the way. But could this have anything to do with the locking mechanism? I have seen one NEF rifle pop open when fired, but none of mine ever have.
  I'm not trying to talk about more than one subject, I just would like to get this solved, trying to rule out all possibilities.
  Appreciate the responses.

[PartsMan]

Is the barrel latching tight in the action.
It should latch snug with a .001" feeler guage between the barrel and action.
You might be able to pull it out but with some resitance.

[quickdtoo]

As has been hinted at, follow the advice in the FAQs and the Handi basics, those steps will get you where you want to be. How you close the action and how you pull the trigger can cause a lot of grief, be consistent and close the action firmly, don't baby it, pull the trigger all the way to the rear each time. Number one on the list of things that can cause vertical stringing is poor/inconsistent lock up caused by oil on the latch and/or shelf, make sure they're dry. If that's been seen to, remove the forend and see how it shoots with it off, if it shoots good, work on it using the different techniques shown in the FAQs, one at a time, don't try a bunch of stuff at once.

I don't know how you arrived at those loads, but trying to pick a good load at random is a waste of powder, bullets and time, work the load up from start data in ½gr increments and you'll find the sweet spot.

Tim

[MSM]

  I cleaned the action last night. There were a few grains of flattened powder residue in the locking mechanism but little else. I cleaned them out with a Q-tip.
  I did not have a feeler gauge, but I did take a shim of paper (measured .002") and found the action would close tightly on the right side. On the left side the shim was loose enough to wiggle about. This is with the shim going all the way across the closed action. I looked closer and noticed the breach of the barrel and action on the right side was somewhat polished from contact, while the other side looked new.
  Also, with the fore end off and the action closed I noticed a barely perceivable amount of shake. I could not see the movement, but I could feel it and hear it. I double checked the scope rings and bases, they were tight. With the fore stock on this ever so slight shake was gone.
  Any thoughts? I have never measured the tolerances of a rifle before, so I am not sure this will matter.
 

[fungunner]

hi there, when i mount a scope on a rifle, i use a three foot chunk of aluminum 1 inch pipe. just put it on like it was a scope with it hanging out to the muzzle, youn can instantly see if your mounts are straight. some are way off center.

[quickdtoo]

The barrel shouldn't be loose, I'd contact H&R and get a call tag authorized(they pay shipping) for return for repair which will be a replacement barrel. Explain to them about the accuracy issues, might as well ask for a free trigger job while it's there too.

Tim

toll free (866)776-9292

[MSM]

  I'll take your advice Tim. I'll keep posting. Looks like I'll be using my .45-70 NEF. Now that is a great caliber.
  Wish I'd thought of the scope alignment tool myself.
  Thanks,
   Scott

[Singleshotsam]

My .243 Rossi scope mounts are drilled crooked.  It too will throw the scope off to the right very badly.  A set of Millet windage adjustable rings took care of that.  Once I solved that problem, I could group the gun at a consistant 1".