Author Topic: Ebay Parrot cannon kt and questions (Read 4489 times)

Cannoneer · « **Reply #30 on:** October 16, 2008, 07:50:11 PM »

Rays89, good luck on this project.

Dan and Lendi, thanks for the tips. Dan, your right, I usually do put to much glue on and cause the problem of having too much excess to clean up with solvent or water, depending on the glue used. If I was a little less heavy handed I could save myself a lot of extra work.
Lendi, your point about letting the glue start to set before clamping the pieces together is well taken. I have used Titebond and it's good wood glue, but this gun (11'' steel barrel) is only going to be outdoors to fire it, so I figured the hide glue would work well. I finished the carriage with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish. I only have a few more things to do on the carriage, then I'll post some pics.

dan610324 · « **Reply #31 on:** October 17, 2008, 02:12:19 AM »

hi lendi
could you please explain a few things for me , what is gum turps and japan drier ??
what is paste wax ??

when it comes to wax I use bee wax solved in boiling alcohol ( 1 part wax and 9 parts alcohol ) put it on as hot as possible in very thin layers , let it dry and polish . repeat several times , its lots of work but its worth it .

when it comes to glue I use an purethan based glue thats water solveable as long as its fresh , but after it have hardened its hard as plastic ( or even harder ) and totaly water resistant , often used by boat builders . this glue I thin with a little water , but just the amount I will use at the moment . then both pieces of wood that should be glued together are brushed with water to have them a little moistured . then an very thin layer of glue on one part and clamp it together with high pressure . whipe away all glue that comes out , but if there any glue comming out you used to much glue . after 15 min and half an hour you need to clean it again because the glue is expanding in contact with the water when hardening . this is the best wood glue I ever have used . completely hardened after 4 hours .
it looks like the classical white wood glue .

thelionspaw · « **Reply #32 on:** October 17, 2008, 02:43:08 AM »

I'm glad "Lendi" wrote what he did because I wrote basically the same advice but when I clicked send, somehow it it has stayed in orbit. The only thing I might add is what I often do.

Stain the parts before assembly.

There are about 6 basic species of mahogany that run from great to burnable according to the porousity, just like pine has/is.

Never sand oak, mahogany, walnut if you can help it; scrape them.

Fish glue isn't waterproof either.

Stick with what Lendi has offered as wisdom for wood.

Richard

Cannoneer · « **Reply #33 on:** October 17, 2008, 07:30:11 AM »

Quote

Stain the parts before assembly.

Thanks RC, this is another point well taken.

I copied and pasted this excerpt off a woodworking site:

Carpenter’s glue is yellow because it was coloured. PVA can be coloured as a monomer but once cured, it becomes an inert, solid plastic and cannot be dyed or hold pigments. Hide glue can be stained and coloured so a finish cannot be ruined by a little squeeze out caught in the pores of the wood. Actually, when mixed with a little matching sawdust it can be used as an effective filler that can be finished to blend in with the rest of the project. However, while reversibility and its ability to accept color are probably the biggest pluses when working with hide glue, it has many other positive attributes.

What really bugs me about this is that this shouldn't have happened; the reason I used hide glue in the first place (even though I think it has other good qualities) was to avoid this problem in the first place. 1. I should have been able to clean the wood with a moist cloth. 2. Even if some of the glue were remaining in the pores the wood should have accepted the stain. I'm not going to give the brand name of this prepared liquid hide glue here but you can rest assured its been disposed of and I'm never going to buy it again.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #34 on:** October 22, 2008, 01:01:33 PM »

Quote

you please excould plain a few things for me , what is gum turps and japan drier ??
what is paste wax ??

Dan,
In America some mariners call this mixture "The Old Down East Deck Coating", it was used by wooden boat owners to seal and finish wood.

"The Museum's use of pine tar as a wood preservative is limited. A soaking oil of turpentine,13 boiled linseed oil, pine tar, and Japan dryer14 is used on some work boats and collection vessels. This mixture has been called "Old Down East Deck Coating" by some people. A variation of this coating for a wood preservative below ground eliminates the Japan dryer, and the other three ingredients are of equal measure by volume."
http://www.maritime.org/conf/conf-kaye-tar.htm

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=173

http://www.gregboats.com/pages/finishes.html

http://www.assoc-restorers.com/r-articles/sal/pastewax.html

dan610324 · « **Reply #35 on:** October 22, 2008, 01:53:21 PM »

hi ray

do you still have all your fingers in the right place ??
or do you keep them in the refridgerator

rays89 · « **Reply #36 on:** October 22, 2008, 04:00:32 PM »

Dan
Funny you should say that I just got the scalpels today. I hadn't a chance to check them out yet. Busy week at the job. Going to try them out this weekend (very carefully). About 3 years ago I go bit by a table saw 'Irishman still got the band aide?'. So nowadays I am pretty careful of things that cut....Looks like the hubs are going to need to be painted.
Thanx for the blades.
Ray

dan610324 · « **Reply #37 on:** October 23, 2008, 10:49:30 AM »

be careful this time

I dont want to get sued

rays89 · « **Reply #38 on:** October 23, 2008, 01:43:10 PM »

I am a big boy now and take resposiblity of my own actions, Besides I put a little cork on the tip of each blade so I don't stab myself. With a face sheild, Helmet and chain mail gloves. Like the precauctions state on each package. Right below where it states it may contain chemicals known to cause cancer in the state of California..

rays89 · « **Reply #39 on:** October 29, 2008, 03:50:12 PM »

I have been planning to make a post here for a while but I misplaced my card reader then the original pictures were set on manual focus and where blurry. So I had to rush a picture of what I have done with the wheels. Dan Thanx for the scalples I scraped what I can. But I had to paint the hubs and the inside of the rim. I am still waiting for a part that I have been informed is in transit.

dan610324 · « **Reply #40 on:** October 30, 2008, 01:26:29 PM »

old hubs often are totaly black because of the grease and metal dust , its very authentic .
Im searching now for an pair of wheels , but the problem is the grease stains , cant paint on it .

rays89 · « **Reply #41 on:** October 30, 2008, 02:28:15 PM »

I don't think I am going to get grease stains on this one. I finally got what I was waiting for. I felt like a kid on Christmas with this one. I didn't even think of polishing it when I photographed it ugh. Instead of using the barrel that came with the kit. I had one cut in brass. So much for authenticity on this one.

irishman · « **Reply #42 on:** October 31, 2008, 07:14:03 AM »

This barrel was really fun to cut. I've been wanting to cut this for a couple of years. I knew Ray wanted one. The polishing went really well with no obstructions. Truely, another Golden Gun! (thanks Captain Rich, Rickk and El Caz)

Michael

Cannoneer · « **Reply #43 on:** October 31, 2008, 12:44:49 PM »

Quote from: irishman on October 31, 2008, 07:14:03 AM

This barrel was really fun to cut. I've been wanting to cut this for a couple of years. I knew Ray wanted one. The polishing went really well with no obstructions. Truely, another Golden Gun! (thanks Captain Rich, Rickk and El Caz)

Michael

Quote from: rays89 on October 30, 2008, 02:28:15 PM

I don't think I am going to get grease stains on this one. I finally got what I was waiting for. I felt like a kid on Christmas with this one. I didn't even think of polishing it when I photographed it ugh. Instead of using the barrel that came with the kit. I had one cut in brass. So much for authenticity on this one.

Excellent: It has to feel good to have number 1.

rays89 · « **Reply #44 on:** October 31, 2008, 02:52:33 PM »

Whether this is number 1 or 100 This barrel is truly a work of art. This reminded me when I bought my first Harley over 20 years ago. I could just sit in the garage and stare at the polished chome and think "man this thing is sweeet"

rays89 · « **Reply #45 on:** November 01, 2008, 01:19:30 PM »

This morning I decided to roughly assemble the cannon to see how it is going to look. I have several sheets of brass for the trim I still have to cut. I was still waiting for one more part from the Irishman to come in.

Well when the mail came in this afternoon. The parts I was waiting for came in. It is a pair of trunion caps. The caps in the kit were kind of funky looking. So the irishman decided to cut a set much more fitting for this barrel. Well I have quite bit of work ahead of me. All I know this is going to be the center piece of my collection.

toysoldier · « **Reply #46 on:** November 02, 2008, 04:56:05 AM »

This is a very interesting thread. The only "cannon" I have is a 4" .50 cal that my late father-in-law (a tool and die maker) turned from steel. Fun to shoot on the 4th.

Do any of you use urethane (Gorilla) glue? I've become rather fond of it for furniture repairs, and it really holds knife scales on to a full-tang blade.

In researching gunstock finishes, I found reference to a "1/3 Finn" mixture---1/3 turpentine, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 beeswax. It's supposed to be the finish used on Finnish rifles, and duplicate the finish on many other military bolt guns. I bought the ingredients, but haven't tried it out yet.

Cannoneer · « **Reply #47 on:** November 02, 2008, 05:21:48 AM »

Quote

Do any of you use urethane (Gorilla) glue? I've become rather fond of it for furniture repairs, and it really holds knife scales on to a full-tang blade.

Toysoldier,

I have used 'Gorilla' brand glue', (Elmers also manufactures the same formula glue now) and from my experience it works fine for wood, once you wet the pieces you're gluing with water and the glue is 'activated' you just have to keep an eye on it for an hour or so to wipe off the excess glue that is coming out of the join, because this stuff increases in mass as it cures. This is the best (because of the increase in mass) glue that I have found for securing metal tyres to wooden carriage trucks (wheels). On the naval truck carriage I was talking about in this thread I used G-glue on the red-brass tyres that I put on the ash wood trucks.

rays89 · « **Reply #48 on:** November 02, 2008, 08:34:31 AM »

I have used Gorilla glue on building model boats. With this cannon I didn't use any glue. The maker of the wheels did what type I do not know all I know they were generous on the amount. As for assembling it I am not going to need any glue. I am going have to drill some holes and put some screws in. As for the brass I am going to use small brass nails.

Terry C. · « **Reply #49 on:** November 02, 2008, 10:48:39 AM »

Since I haven't seen where anyone else has asked, what are you going to do with the barrel that came with the kit?

irishman · « **Reply #50 on:** November 02, 2008, 12:58:48 PM »

Quote

Rays89 wanted me to build these caps.....I am going to add these to my product line. My intent, as always is to build the best that I can.

I don't know what "standard sizes" I should build for stock re: for what trunnion diameter
diameter less 50% for depth?
cap width
center to center for mount holes
hole diameter

I have extruded brass in stock for trunnion caps in 1/2, 3/4 and 7/8 wide. This FC360 is the first ingredient to build a superior product. Next issue is building to stock vs. milling each one to order, which I am happy to do, but it takes longer and costs more.

Thanks to all!

Michael

rays89 · « **Reply #51 on:** November 02, 2008, 03:01:50 PM »

Terry
Somebody PMed me on the barrel that came with the kit. I am not sure yet overall it is a nice barrel. Not as fine as the brass one. It is in the backburner I was thinking of possibly making a replica of this cannon by cutting the barrel shorter.

then I will have to order another set of trunion caps from the irishman, Or maybe I wil E-bay it. I would suggest to PM the Irishman on #02 I don't think I have ever seen a barrel as sweet as this one.

Double D · « **Reply #52 on:** November 02, 2008, 05:14:00 PM »

Ray you can always put that barrel up for sale on opur classifieds.

Irishman, Nice cap sap squres. You should make them first to fit all your cannons.

Victor3 · « **Reply #53 on:** November 02, 2008, 05:48:25 PM »

Quote from: irishman on November 02, 2008, 12:58:48 PM

I have extruded brass in stock for trunnion caps in 1/2, 3/4 and 7/8 wide. This FC360 is the first ingredient to build a superior product. Next issue is building to stock vs. milling each one to order, which I am happy to do, but it takes longer and costs more.

Irishman - I wouldn't make anything to put into stock except maybe basic oversize blanks without the radius for the trunnions cut. Most small cannons made by individuals are put together with whatever material is on hand, so no dimension is 'standard.'

As I learned in manufacturing management 101, the biggest form of waste in any company is inventory that doesn't move. Making parts requires material, labor, perishable tools and other investments that are tied up until you sell them

irishman · « **Reply #54 on:** November 04, 2008, 06:34:22 AM »

DD, thank you for the obvious. I was so excited about them that I couldn't think. Next week, I will list them on the "classifieds".

Victor3, thank you for your comments. All, well taken, + by making each set to order, they are shipped, "fresh machined" and won't require additional polishing on the way out the door.

I can price them based on "users" specifications.

Michael

irishman · « **Reply #55 on:** November 07, 2008, 03:16:16 PM »

02 in process!

Michael

rays89 · « **Reply #56 on:** November 08, 2008, 06:07:51 PM »

While in the process of building. I was working with some this brass sheet. I discovered this stuff is sharp. (Michael I need that band aide) Well I bandage myself up, And kept going. I have it assembled. But in the future I still want to put some brass trim. And some Implements like a ramrod, Sponge, Bucket ect . But I have to wait until I still heal. But this is how it looks so far.
Ray

Terry C. · « **Reply #57 on:** November 09, 2008, 04:39:07 AM »

SWEET!

Love that carriage. And the barrel is a thing of beauty. Together they look awesome!

I hear'ya on the sharp brass. When I was making the trim for my field carriage, I bled more than once.

I was cutting brass sheet down into strips by sandwiching it between two layers of ¼" plywood with double-sided carpet tape, and running it through the table saw (carbide-tipped blade). This yielded very nice strips at whatever width I needed, that unfortunately were also very sharp on the edges!

Double D · « **Reply #58 on:** November 09, 2008, 04:59:56 AM »

Ray, I am pretty sure you are going for the shiny presentation gun look. If you are I found this website the other day. They have a clear coat that might interest you. http://www.caswellplating.com/vht/vhtclear.htm

They can also provide you with the chemicals to change the color of your brass for a more traditional look. http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/metal.htm.

I have added them to the resource list.

rays89 · « **Reply #59 on:** November 09, 2008, 02:50:13 PM »

DD
I could have used that stuff on my bike. But somebody 3000 miles away is riding it now

I gotta fire you a PM on an unrelated matter