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Offline Snareman

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« on: October 08, 2008, 07:51:33 PM »
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Offline GatCat

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2008, 11:06:31 PM »
Yep, you've got it right, 1 click = 1/4 inch at 100 yards,
                                              1/8 inch at 50 yards,
                                               1/2 inch at 200 yard
Just a continuing "wedge".
The better scopes are really pretty close, doesn't hurt to check the one you have.
One other thing, when adjusting, say you need to go 16 clicks to the right,..go 17 or 18, then back 1 or 2, to "settle-in" the adjustments.
Mark

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2008, 01:49:02 AM »
Quote
One other thing, when adjusting, say you need to go 16 clicks to the right,..go 17 or 18, then back 1 or 2, to "settle-in" the adjustments.
Mark

Spoken like a user of cheap scopes for most of their guns.

Seriously I don't use cheap scopes and have never seen a need to play such games with the top of the line scopes I use.


Bill aka the Graybeard
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Offline Coyote Hunter

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2008, 03:28:35 AM »
Snareman –

A couple things….

First, scopes which claim ¼” @ 100 yards may or may not be ¼”.  I have a couple that are more like 1/3”.  Since these scopes are excellent in all other aspects, I don’t worry about the discrepancy.

My favorite targets are the old Redfield Sight-In targets.  These targets have background lines at 1” which allow you to easily see what your adjustments are doing.    (These targets work great with scopes but not so well with iron sights.)  With the demise of Redfield, Outers now sells these and you can get them online for $12 per 100 or something like that. 

http://www.productwizard.com/outersguncleaning-47387.html


To use the least ammo while sighting in, start with a recently cleaned bore and fire a few fouling shots using cheap ammo.  Then using your hunting ammo fire a two-shot group.  Make adjustments, allow the barrel to cool completely, then fire a couple more shots.  Some of my ammo uses bullets that run well over $1 each, sometimes closer to $2, so I use this method a lot.  I also develop cheaper loads which shoot to similar points of impact so that most of my shooting can be done with the cheaper ammo.

Enjoy that .270!
Coyote Hunter
NRA, GOA, DAD - and I VOTE!

Offline charles p

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2008, 03:50:06 AM »
It's good to know the math but it's better to test the scope with several shots.  On corrections the size you are providing, it rarely works out perfectly.  Got to do the bench work.

Offline AtlLaw

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #5 on: October 09, 2008, 07:10:08 AM »
Has anyone really tested their scope clicks to see how many clicks it "really" takes to move their scope reliably? (like 5 clicks = 1", etc)  I suppose if I shot at a horizontal line and made the adjustments, I can test myself.

A common test for scopes is one variation or another of to "shoot the box."  Probably been done by various gun writers at least once for every brand of scope made.  But it's more fun to do it yourself if you have any reason to question the scope ... like when it's not a Leupold...  :D

FWIW, I figger most all uv em are close enough for me to sight a rifle in.  After that I'm only concerned that the scope hold it's zero!  ;)
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Offline Catfish

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #6 on: October 09, 2008, 02:10:07 PM »
What every has siad is true, and what GB said most of all. I have close to 50 scopes and most are Leupolds, the are scopes I got in trades and are on the block. I still use alot of the old Leupolds with friction lock so there is not clicling them in, but once set they are there and stay there. For my longer range gun I use the new higher dollar Leupolds and adjust elevation for distance and can tell you if I want to hit 3 in. higher at 600 yrds. crank it up 2 clicks and it`s 3 ins. higher. Your gun will shoot no more accurately than the sight you have on it. A good scope may not make an inaccurate gun shoot, but a bad scope will make an accurate gun shoot poorly.

Offline mrbigtexan

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2008, 02:44:54 PM »
well said catfish!!!

Offline Coyote Hunter

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2008, 11:43:27 AM »
It's good to know the math but it's better to test the scope with several shots.  On corrections the size you are providing, it rarely works out perfectly.  Got to do the bench work.

Amen.  Knowing the math can save ammo, though, and it will tell you the retained energy which shooting at the range will not.  For wind drift and trajectory a calculator is only a first approximation.

That said, I do the 'first approximations' for all my loads once I get the chrono data.  Before I got a chrono I used 100 and 300 yard field data and a ballistic calculator to figure the velocity of my 7mm RM by fiddling with the BC and velocity to match the observed trajectory.  when I got the chrono I discovered my calculated velocity was only a few fps off.
Coyote Hunter
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Offline Selmer

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #9 on: October 17, 2008, 06:15:36 AM »
I have  B&L 3000 3-9x40, Nikon Monarch 6.5-20x44, and a Leupold Vari-X II 3-9x40.  They will all shoot the box, and have precise adjustments.  I will never buy a cheap scope again, it's at best a guess and at worst the adjustments don't move until after a couple shots, and by then you've cranked it twice as far as it needs to go, then you have to get it to move back.  My father got by with cheap scopes for years, but sighting them in was a crapshoot. I too was taught the "go 2 past, then come back, tap on each side of the turret with a cartridge to make sure it move" tricks.  I don't need them on any scope I use.  I bought my father a VXI Leupold for his .30-06 last year and he can't believe that he can move windage AND elevation at the same time and it will hit where he wants it to!  At least I know that when it's sighted in, it will still be sighted in when I inherit his .30-06...:)  The first time I "shot the box" with my Nikon on a 6PPC I think he went into shock and had a hard time believing that I was actually moving the turrets, even though he watched me do it! :)
Selmer
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Offline kyelkhunter3006

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #10 on: October 17, 2008, 10:42:10 AM »
Easy way to zero.  It's  good for any rifle that you can look through the bore, and you need a rifle vise of some sort.  I use it on bolt actions, single shots, and in-line ML's.

Set your target at 50 yds. 

Lock the gun down, look through the bore and center the target as precisely as possible. 

Adjust the x-hairs so that they are centered on the bulls eye. 

Take the rifle out of the vise, shoot it on the bags, bipod, sticks, whatever you are using.

Fire one shot. 

Lock the rifle back in the vise, center the x-hair on your original point of aim. 

Use the adjustments to move the x-hair until it intersects the bullet hole from the first shot as precisely as possible.

Take the rifle out of the vise and fire another shot. 

If you did it right, the the second shot should be dead center, or close to it, on the target.  Sometimes you'll need a third shot to make a small adjustment to get it centered.  Now you can fine tune at longer ranges, but with most centerfire rounds like the .270, .308, 30-06, and such, a 1" high zero at 50yds will put you 2" high at 100 with a drop of around 8" low at 300 yds.  There are extremes depending on the round, but all of the flat shooting rounds hit within inches of each other out to 300 yds.  Of course, you should shoot at various ranges to confirm your impacts (and your ability) at those ranges.

Offline Mckie Hollow

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Re: Sighting In Scope Questions
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2008, 12:52:15 AM »
Agreed. I do the same @ 50yds. Your eye centered on the bore and target, should get You on paper. The same as using a peep sight, Your eye can automatically center the target. Your "eye centering or centralizing" is more accurate than You think.