Got a nice gift now what?

[jhlewis10]

I received 2 uberti's as a gift.

1860, Army and a 51, Navy I believe.

I tried to google Uberti to find a manual on how to load and care for them, but did not find anything.

Anybody got one?  I am a Glock guy and way out of my league here.

Also I will only be keeping one of them.  Which would you keep and what is an average used price?

They look like they are in good shape, no rust loaded with oil, but the cylinders look like they need cleaned up inside.

Thanks

[mcwoodduck]

Keep them both.
The 51 can be either a .36 or a .44
the 1860 is a .44
You will need:
.451-.454 round balls for the 44.
I use Pyrodex P so a pound of it
a powder measure,
a powder flask
No.11 caps ( a capper can help if you have large fingers)
A stand will help but is not needed.
and greese.
When you get out to the range you will want to cap the revolver and fire each cylinder. to remove any oil or grease.  Set the hammer to 1/2 cock.  It allows the cylinder to freely move.  Look at the gun there is an open side ( the right, not left side of the frame on your 1860) 
Measure out 30 grains of powder into the measure and dump it into a cylinder on the right side of the gun.  Right side being as your pointing it.  Now grab a ball and put it on top of the powder.  Index cylinder under the ramer and use the lever to seat the ball.  If there is a little ring of lead don't worry.  Now repeat till all cylinders are full of both powder and shot.  Now use the grease to cover the balls.  Just a little.  The grease does two things.  It lubes the barrel and acts as a seal to keep from having a chain fire.  I don't use the grease as I use over sized shot and my cylinders are round.  But not a bad thing to do for your first few shots.  Chain fire is when you shoot one chamber and the gases leaving the cylinder gap sets off loose cylinders and the gas gets behind the ball and that charge of powder also goes not ligned up with anything.
Now that you have the gun fully loaded and greased. turn it over and cap the revolver.  Now what is cool about the cap and ball revolvers is there are half way groves that the hammer will rest so it would be safe to carry it fully loaded, a feature lost on the center fire models.  Now pull back to full cock.  Use the V in the hammer to line up with the front sight and shoot.  the sights suck!  but the gun is accurate.  When you figure out where yours points you can start making hits.  I have to clean mine after about 4 full loadings.  The powder and grease start to gunk up the gun.  Also pack a lunch.  the pyrodex and the grease start to smell like BBQ and you will get hungry.
Do you know how to take apart the revolvers to clean them?  You will need a screw driver and a small mallet at first.  Wood or rubber.

[jhlewis10]

Thanks for the info, no I dont know how to break them down.  So no wadding is needed correct?

The 51 is a 36 cal.

Do you have to break it down to clean it in the field?

[Graybeard]

Had they come my way rather than yours I'd have a shadow box made and hang them on the wall for decoration in my office. I'm not much on shooting black powder guns but do love the look of them. Come to think of it I have a couple I'm over due to hang on the way now not C&B revolvers tho they are long guns.

[mcwoodduck]

A fiber wad is made that acts like the grease.  they are easy to use but sometimes hard to find in the stores.
I need to go home and look at mine and write directions from there.
Hit this as a bump or OK so it pop up in my reply list.
thanks,
Brian
                                                                 

[longcaribiner]

I think the NMLRA has an on-line generic loading manual for cap and ball revolvers.  It had been there, don't know if it still is.   

[blhof]

You might also read through the top posts on this forum, they're pretty detailed as to loading and firing percussion revolvers.

[NozzleRag]

You disassemble the Colt copies by striking the wedge(protrudes thru the barrel in front of the cylinder)on the right side, driving it out to the left. After a few times this will loosen to the point that it can be taken down with your fingers. When the wedge is clear of the barrel a spring in the top of the wedge will catch on a screw on the left side of the barrel. That's what it is there for.
Place the gun on half cock and using the loading lever to push on a space between chambers in the cylinder, push and the barrel will come off. This is as far as you need to go for normal use.
Run a patch thru the barrel and using a 45 cal bore mop wipe out the chambers of the cylinder. Look into the chambers and you should be able to see daylight thru the nipples. If you cannot, then a fine wire inserted in the nipple opening will clear them.
I'd use a little less powder than listed above. I like 25-27 grs in my 44s.
Grease the base pin or arbor with any non-petroleum grease. Vegetable shortening will work fine.Reassemble in reverse order as above and head to the range.
If this turns you on to the point that you want to do it more then, go to the PossibleShop.com and order a set of TRESO nipples for your guns. Most of us swear by TRESO nipples and #10 Remington caps. These two things will solve most of your cap problems.
I load 25+ grs of powder, a waxed felt wad and the ball on top. I cap my TRESO nipple with a #10 Remington and start shooting. My guns will run as many as 16 stages between cleanings. I tried this summer to go as long as I could. I cleaned after 16 stages because I got caught in a downpour and the guns were wet.
If you still have questions got to>http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/board,82.0.html.
This is a child board of a whole forum dedicated to the cap and ball sixguns.

[mcwoodduck]

Good detail of taking dwon the 1860,
You just forgot the short cut.
After you take out the wedge.  You can move the cylinder to the 1/2 way position and use the loading lever to remove the barrel.  Place the ram inbetween the the holes and act as if your loading a round and the barrel and loading lever will just pop right off.

[Flint]

Check the Colt Disassembly permanently pinned article at the head of this section.  If it's an Uberti Navy, it will be a 36, only Pietta makes a 44 Navy.

[Gatofeo]

See my sticky post at the top of this section entitled, "How to properly use a cap and ball revolver."
This will answer many of your questions.

One very important thing to remember: After using these revolvers, they will need to be cleaned the same day. Rust can easily set in overnight, depending on the humidity.
Cap and ball sixguns are high maintenance guns. They're not like your Glock, which you can fire and clean the following week.
More cap and ball sixguns have been ruined through neglect of cleaning than any other thing, I'd bet.
Both disassemble into major components quite easily, for basic cleaning.

Eventually, depending upon use and the humidity in your area, you'll need to totally take them apart down to the last screw and part, and scrub those parts in hot, soapy water.
Rinse, place the parts in a shallow pan, put the pan in a low oven (150 to 200) with the oven door cracked open a bit. This will drive out any moisture. Lubricate with olive oil and reassemble.
Do NOT use petroleum products with any black powder gun. Black powder, when mixed with petroleum products, often creates a hard, tarry fouling that is difficult to remove. Avoid WD-40, axle grease, 3-In-1 oil, BreakFree CLP and other petroleum-based products.
Use natural lubricants such as Crisco, olive oil, lard, beeswax --- and even bacon grease in a pinch.
I'm probably reiterating what's in my post, but I can't emphasize cleaning and proper lubricant too much.

Keep both guns. You'll get addicted and later regret you got rid of one. Hang onto it for at least a year, or 10 sessions at the range, whichever come first.