p38

[oldrifter]

I have come up with a P38 in verygood condition and would like some idea about what I have.
Markings ;  P38  byf    82-- m   
                       43

all sn# match

 

Thanks oldrifter
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[rockbilly]

Are you sure it is marked eyf?   Could it be byf with a -42, 43 or 44 following?

There are so many different versions of the P-38 that it is hard to tell exactly what you have without a look at the gun, and the value of these guns goes from one extreame to another, depending on additional markings.

[oldrifter]

You are right , just a senior moment.   All other markings are 135 under the wings and one eagle with what looks like a nazi sign under it.  All are very small.
Thanks oldrifter
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[coyotejoe]

I believe byf 43 indicates it was made by Mauser in 1943.

[Mikey]

Olddrifter: Sounds like you have come up with a nice old handgun.  Although not so old as to not give you lots of fun, as well as an adequate defensive pistol.

Coyotejoe is right - yours was made by Mauser in 1943.  I would have a gunsmith check it out just to be sure it is solid and reliable, although you almost really have to kill those things with a tank before they give out on you. 

You always want to check the chamber and barrel for signs of extensive pitting.  If the chamber is pitted you may be limited to using steel case ammo to prevent a brass case from expanding into a large pit and cause the pistol to fail to extract.  If you chamber is clean you may see some pitting in the barrel but this doesn't seem to hurt those things a bit and they retain their accuracy. 

One concern for the gunsmith if he/she has not dealth with the P38 before is the firing pin cover on the top of the slide.  This should not be removed unless absolutely necessary, as with the wartime pistols they have a tendency to lose their spring tension and they keep falling off exposing the firing pin and loaded chamber indicator.  If the pistol chambers a fmj 9mm round and the loaded chamber indicator does not hinder chambering then it works fine and there is no need to mess with it or the cover.  To test your firing pin function either take a primed (but empty and otherwise unloaded) 9mm case and see if a full strike detonates the primer.  Or, turn the pistol barrel facing up, drop a thin pencil down the barrel, eraser first untiol it bottoms on the bolt face and dry fire the gun; the pencil should fly out of the barrel (caution - it make stick in your ceiling.....).  If it works, don't mess with it or the cover.  If you want to make certain it is properly lubricated and free of cosmoline then use a spray cleaner, on accounta ya don't wanna mess with that dang firing pin cover...................

If you want a new set of springs for the gunsmith to install you can purchase them from Wolff Springs in Ardmor, PA - they are on the web. 

Most effective ammo for those older mil-spec pieces is straight ball ammo - either 115 or 124 gn ball.  There is lots of mil-surp available and extra magazines don't cost much, so you can really have a ball with those oldies.  Hope this helps.  Mikey.

[oldrifter]

Thanks for the reply , a gunsmith or retired gunsmith did check it but I am not that up on the value of these.  The bore and chamber look like new.  I am retired and still can't put them down.
Thanks oldrifter
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[S.B.]

I don't think you'll find a cheap wartime P38 anymore anywhere? The steel framed P38s command a premium price, in today's world.
Steve

[oldrifter]

Not looking to buy , I have one I was asking the value of , I am going to sell .
Thanks oldrifter
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[blhof]

The best way to get an idea of the value is to go to one of the on line gun auctions and check for the going rate for a similiar quality pistol.  Currently the bottom price for a functional pistol with matching numbers and any nazi symbols is around $450.  That's a functional gun; anything better, smooth chamber and bore degree of original finish drives the price right up.  Toward the end of the war the Germans were running out of steel and some of the last ones made, were made of train rails.  I got that info from a cousin who was there. Those pistols were very rough; as they were minimally finished to go into service as soon as possible.

[44 Man]

I owned one of those wartime P38 a few years (25?) ago.  It had all of the Nazi markings and eagles.  It also had the worst trigger I have ever handled in a handgun.  It felt about like you were squeezing a plumb with your trigger finger.  It also would not shoot into less than 9" at 10 yards!  I did not keep it long at all.  It was very neat, but I really like guns that are accurate and easy to shoot.  Not to knock yours, it is very neat to own a piece of history and I congratulate you.  I just never liked mine.  44 Man

[blhof]

No wartime P38 had very good triggers and as the war progressed finishing got worse along with function, if it would cycle, it went into service, even the great Lugers had fair to poor triggers at best.  A very few civilian models had reasonable triggers and accuracy, as they were worked on by the factory for VIP clients.

[Hook686]

http://www.p38guns.com/


is a decent starting page to look for info on P38 pistols. I have a P38 44ac H48xx ... 1944 by Walther my dad swapped an infantryman for. It cost him a bottle of gin, but he was a pilot and had access to the booze.

The one thing I would caution is to be sure to only use standard 9mm, no +P, or +P+.  Mine shoots quite well with the 115 and 124 grain.