swedish mauser aftermarket tigger

[hillbill]

I'm finishing up a 6.5 swede custom rifle Ive been messin with for a couple years.my smith told me id prob like a better trigger but i resisted as i hadn't had any prob with the military trigger. however now that the rifle no longer weighs what it did and is about 2 foot shorter the trigger seems awful heavy and is definitely a impediment to accurate shooting.what I'm looking for is a drop in aftermarket trigger that will give me a much lighter pull. any ideas guys?if so whats your fave on line supplier?

[squirrellluck]

i believe both bold and timney offer drop in triggers with or without safty.

[Mikey]

I would go with a Bold Trigger.  I installed one with an integral safety (they come with or without their own safeties) and replaced the bolt safety with a blank (Brownells) in my M38 with a #3 barrel and the rifle puts three in the same hole at 150 yds (with scope).

Both makes of trigger have let-off and after-travel take-up screws and can be adjusted easily.  HTH.  Mikey.

[Mikey]

Sorry - for on-line suppliers I would check with MidSouth - I've had great luck with them, or Brownells.

[squirrellluck]

i think the last triggers ibought was from midwayusa

[Brithunter]

Well your right the std Mauser trigger is easy to work on and get a safe clean crisp pull. OK you cannot get it super light but for a normal sporting rifle super light is not the way to go and this way you save money that can be used on something else  My sporterised Swedish Mause has the std trigger still but modified by me. I bent the trigger to put the blade further back in the guard and worked it over to give a crisp clean pull but kept it two stage. If I had altered it to single stage I could have gotten the blade even futher back but I like it as it is.

[hillbill]

brithunter, what did yu do beside bend the trigger? i have no prob with the 2 stage trigger just the large amount of pull required to set it off.where and what did yu polish or modify?i was going to order a trigger online, but id be very much interested in fixeing the stock trigger to work well.

[Brithunter]

Welll I heated the trigger on the induction electric ring on the cooker to bend it then re-hardened it using the cooker again and quenching it and so far some 8 years later it's still fine. I polished the sear face and the trigger face where it contacts the sear and I reduced the height of the cockign pice to reduce the length of travel before release and I also polished the mating surfaces of the underside of the action and the trigger cam where they contact. I used a couple of oil stones a medium and a fine one with soem light oil. I also use a dab of S&W friction block on it when it's finished.

It's important to keep it square and the angles the same so to help in this I held it in a 4" vice with new jaws, in fact it was a pretty new vice. I only had a very small amount of the part being worked on and used the top of the jaws as a guide and it worked.

[Cheesehead]

I have a Timney in my Model 96, very crisp and clean. It compliments the inherent accuracy of this rifle to the point of amazement.

Cheese

[mrbigtexan]

i have a bold trigger in mine and really like it.

[Brithunter]

Never had a Timney trigger but have several Parker-Hales which have a very similar trigger and they are good if you like that sort of thing. In fact I was adjusting the only on my 1100 Lwt to break at 3lbs last night and to be honest it feels much lighter I may have to adjust it heavier and they have no feel unlike the Std Mauser design. As it is I don't feel it would be safe with gloves due to the reduced feel when wearing them. Will have to try it with gloves on 


 At least the old BSA commercial design allows you to adjust it to single or two stage the P-H 98/48 trigger is not capable of that.

[hillbill]

i worked on the trigger today and polished it up like brithunter explained. it greatly improved the trigger pull and lightened it to the point where i really like it much better.deer season 2 weeks away, im going to try it out and see how i like it.

[Brithunter]

Oh I almost forgot  to lighten it some you can shorten the sear spring which is a coil spring. I have done this on several Mausers and the P14 which uses the same idea. The sear it retained by a pin which you drift out. I shortened it by holding it gently on the side of a 4" grindstone on a bench grinder. make sure you have a cup of water handy so cool it and dont get it red hot. This helps in reducing the intial pressure weight.

See it was not that hard and you saved some money and learned a bit more abotu your rifle a win .... win situation 

[41 magnum]

To remove the first stage:
silver solder a 4-40 nut on the front of the trigger,  towards the top so the screw that goes thru it hits the bottom of the receiver and will push the trigger back, taking up the slack
Make sure to put a small coil spring between the head of the screw and the nut, just like on a carbeurator, to prevent backing out
Sounds like you done good already
Shootingly
John

[mauser98us]

Beleive Dayton Traister out of Wahington state makes one as well

[hillbill]

i ended up buying a used bold trigger with side safety of ebay for about 1/3 of what it was worth new.i am very happy with it and especially like the side safety feature.