Remington 7400 with stripped fore-end screw.

[danhargrave]

I bought a Remington 7400 .270 from a pawn shop last week ($280).  It looked brand new.  The pawn shop guy said that the person bought the gun to start hunting but never got into it – which is believable.  Today I went to put a sling on it and the fore-end screw was extremely difficult to remove.  I read on the net that they are usually rusty (which I thought would be strange for a gun that looks brand new) but after extreme exertion I got it out -- it was stripped (cross threaded).  It seems like this would have to be a manufacturing defect because the fore-end screw as immaculate before I attempted to remove it.  IMO it would be impossible for someone to remove the fore-end screw and then reinsert it cross-threaded without leaving a mark on it. 

I bought this gun for a hunt that I have coming up on Dec 5.  What would you recommend that I do?  Shall I try to find a local gunsmith to re-tap the place where the fore-end screw goes?  Shall I contact Remington and see what they say?  Other suggestions?

(I live in a small town and a good gunsmith may be difficult to find)

Thanks for you input!

Dan

[safetysheriff]

you may want to contact a nearby hardware store to see what kind of threaded inserts they have that will allow repair of threads in metal or wood.   if you have a steady hand and a good eye you can repair the threads with a bushing that is threaded on the inside for the sling-swivel screw and on the outside to hold tight to the metal.   the key is to use the tap provided with the bushing/insert such that you get a proper angle on the insert for use with the sling-swivel screw.

a machine shop might also be able to do this for you.   make sure the firearm is unloaded if taking it to a hardware store or machine shop, please.

take care,

ss'   

[danhargrave]

Thanks ss!

The local gunsmith seems pretty good. He would have fixed it on the spot but he didn't have the right tap. I need a .303 dia. 32 tpi bottom tap. I've looked on the net but it's near impossible to find that size.  A 5/16 is as close as I could find which translates to .3125.  I'm wondering if I could tap the hole out to 5/16 and if needed, shim with something like aluminum foil? I guess it would be similar to the threaded inserts you mention.  It seems like all I really would need is some kind of a shim made of nylon or a semi-soft metal.  I'll contact the auto supply stores in the morning and see if they have the tap.

Thanks,
Dan

[danhargrave]

I've decided to go with a 5/16 inch X 32 tpi tap.  Does anyone have a source for this animal?

Thanks!

[safetysheriff]

hello again,

you do not want to mix 'chicken-little' repairs with firearms that go afield with you.   it's probably enough of an inconvenience to suffer at a shooting range when something breaks; but in the field it could cost you meat........

do not mix aluminum with the repair you contemplate.   the ''electrolysis'' that results from steel and aluminum (dissimilar metals) causes rusting of the steel.   unlike aluminizing as is done with mufflers and exhaust pipes, the use of an aluminum nail, screw, or sheet alongside of steel is a problem.

the auto supply store or a machine-shop supply store should have your tap.

msc industrial supply company has all kinds of taps in their book.   they deliver by 'ups'; and may drop it off to where you work if they have a field-rep' working in your area.

ss'

[danhargrave]

Today I ordered 2 taps from Brownells. They came the closest to the size that I need. I bought a 5/16 and a 9/32. (msc couldn't come closer and they were more expensive).  The taps should arrive next week and I'll see what I can do. What should I use as a lubricant for re-cutting the threads?

I'll try tapping it using the 9/32 first, then see if I can insert the new screw by hand. If not then I'll use the 5/16. If that's too big I'll have to shim or bush.  I'm still not sure what to use as a bushing.  Not aluminum.  Teflon tape?  I won't need to bush much - about .01 overall which translates to .005 on each side. I'll just have to see what that feels like.  I'll keep in touch.

Dan

[safetysheriff]

dan'

i'd use something like a good penetrating oil for a lube, or maybe a decent 5w-20 motor oil like they've got out now.    it is actually a fair difference to try a 9/32" first and then try a 5/16" tap next.   you may need to use a drill in-between trying those thread sizes because 1/32" is equal to .031".   that's more than it sounds like.

if nothing else, buy a pack of J.B. WELD and use it to hold your swing-swivel stud into the metal insert in the forearm.    that will make it hold like there's no tomorrow.   turn the forearm upside down; put a piece of electrical tape over the hole/opening in the foearm thread; squeeze in some of the J.B. WELD mixture, screw in the stud and let it harden per the instructions before letting it be turned over.   it's not my first choice for a repair; but it beats using a 'bushing' of aluminum or teflon tape!

blessings upon you,

ss'   

[danhargrave]

Ok, I got the taps in today and everything went as I expected.  The 9/32 did nothing.  The 5/16 restored the treads nicely but the new screw is a bit sloppy.  I will need to bush or shim. 

ss, thanks again for your advice.  But I'm not sure I understand about the jb weld.  Are you saying to jb weld the screw in place?  Wouldn't that make it difficult to make repairs and clean the gun?  My only other rifle is a ruger 10/22 and I know that if I couldn't remove the takedown screw, I'd be in a world of hurt as far as making modifications and cleaning it.  Is that what your saying?  Any other ideas? Anyone?
Thanks,
Dan

[danhargrave]

Now it works!!!  Apparently I didn't tap it deep enough.  I did some measurements and realized that I needed to tap deeper.  Once I got the tap deeper, the screw went in farther and snugged up just fine!  I calling this one fixed.  Thanks to all for your time and advice!!!

Dan

[safetysheriff]

dan,

was i mistaken?    i was expecting a separate screw for the sling swivel going into a metal bushing already placed into the forearm.    it would be separate from a screw that retains the forearm to the bottom of the barreled action.   

my mistake?   

ss'