The old timers used FFG in their .36 caliber revolvers, apparently with good effect. I think it was just a matter of it probably being the most common grade available, especially in remote places.
However, we now know that the FFFG grade will burn better in the smaller bores. Use the FFG for informal plinking or demonstrating to a friend; save the FFFG for target shooting and more precise plinking.
Do you have a .36 caliber revolver or single shot pistol? The revolver is limited to how much powder it can take. The single-shot pistol has no such limitations, of course.
The capacity of .36 revolvers varies slightly, however. What follows are generalities regarding how much may be put in before you reach the point that you can't ram the ball deep enough to clear the rear of the barrel when the cylinder rotates:
Remington .36 -- 28 grains of FFFG under a bare ball, without a greased wad. With greased wad, about 26 grains.
Colt 1851 Navy -- Max 24 to 25 grs. FFFG with wad twixt ball and powder; 27 grains without.
Colt 1862 Pocket or Police .36 -- Max 15 to 16 grs. with wad; 18 grains without.
Of course, these are generalities. Diameter and chamber lengths vary by manufacturer and model.
Pyrodex FFFG is okay. I mean, it goes bang. Not the most accurate propellant out there, though. That distinction still belongs to black powder. I've yet to find a black powder substitute as accurate as good ol' black. But if Pyrodex is all you can find locally, go with it.
I probably place more emphasis on accuracy with cap and ball sixguns than most folks, so that's why I'm a front-pew-member of the Church of the Holy Black.
Flint is absolutely right about Pyrodex. It's more corrosive than black powder, owing to the perchlorate in it. I wouldn't know a perchlorate if it knocked on my door, but that's what I'm told by the chemist types. All I know is that it does promote rust faster than black powder.
Print out my sticky on "How to properly use a cap and ball revolver" at the top of this section. It will make a good reference.
And one more thing ...
You're a trapshooter, eh? One of these days, you're going to wonder if you can load a wad on the powder of that .36, add a little No. 9 birdshot, and top it off with another wad.
"Should make a dandy snake load," you'll likely mutter.
In my experience, it's pretty dismal. The .36 just won't hold much shot, owing to its smaller chambers. Velocity is slow because room for powder is sacrificed by shot.
This low velocity tends to make the shot bounce off surfaces, rather than penetrate. I learned this the hard way when I fired at a piece of plywood about 20 feet away.
Upon firing, I felt pellets hit my clothing and one ticked off my eyeglasses.
So, if you want to experiment with shot in a cap and ball sixgun, ensure you fire at the target from a slight angle, to reduce bounce-back.
This load might be good at very close range on small critters like sparrows. But the noise is significantly greater than a .22 LR shot cartridge.
Shot loads in the .44 caliber carry a little more shot, but velocity is rather low.
Frankly, such loads in cap and ball sixguns are more inclined to wound rather than kill animals. That's always a horrid thing.
Anyway, be careful if you decide to play around with shot loads. They will bounce shot off tin cans and wood back at the firer.
Have fun with that cap and ball.
Good luck!
