Mounting a scope?

[MagSav]

I have a 460 S&W barrel in a Encore.  It has open sights.  Do I have to have it drilled and tapped professionally to put the mounts on?  I don't see any holes on top of the barrel.  I don't want to try to take off the rear sight if I don't have too.  Thanks

[Grumulkin]

You have to take the rear sight off to mount a scope on an Encore handgun barrel.

After repeated problems with my 460 S&W barrel with the scope base loosening, the scope slipping in the rings under recoil, etc., I had SSK Industries 6 screw T'SOB base with 4 rings installed and have had no more problems.

[Dezynco]

Yes, you have to remove the rear sight to install the scope base....

Leupold's steel one-piece base with the steel dovetail rings should keep that scope on there.  They're pretty tough.  They also have TORX screws holding them on.  I wouldn't use any LockTight either.  That'll just make it hard to remove later.

If the Leupold base won't stay, then you could certainly have the TSOB mount installed, you could run over it with a truck and it wouldn't come loose!

[Scibaer]

how i mounted mine: remove the screw that adjusts the up/down setting. next tap out the roll pin at the front edge of the sight block. now the adjustable part of the sight will come off and under it you will find 2 or 3 screws that hold the base to the barrel, remove them carefully and you will find that you can mount a weaver no. 92 scope rail to the barrel or some other 4 hole rail. its a 3 minute job really.

[hunterspistol]

   There are four screw holes under the rear sight(which uses only two).
     One of the ways to secure a scope base and have it work is to use rubbing alcohol to remove oil, then Loctite-the blue automotive type.  I found a Wheeler Engineering Scope Lapping Kit that I love. It laps the scope rings, after they are mounted on the base, for full contact without the edge cuts(scope marks). 
      I like doing it in steps, base,rings, all loctited except the ring tops, then lapped and cleaned up with alcohol, the mount the scope down and loctite it. You could say I like ceremony, it's done slowly and deliberately.
    Out here, we use the 92A Weaver base and Weaver high steel top rings, they have 2 screws per top.

[mbk]

The original post mentioned a 460 barrel on the Encore, I would think you would want to use the Weaver 410 base vs. the 92A base mentioned in the following posts.  The 410 and the 92A have the same hole pattern, but the 410 is has a larger radius for the larger diameter barrels of the Encores.  I agee definately use blue loctite on the base screws and lap or ream the rings in line to eliminate the ring marks and increase surface area holding.  Especially on my heavy recoilers, after lapping or reaming I adhear a sticky label (like for a 3.5" disc) to the inside of the rings. The label will help keep the scope from slipping even more, try rings with and without the labels and as you start snugging the rings down, you will be surprised at the difference in hold.

Mike

[Grumulkin]

I wouldn't use any LockTight either.

Lots of luck with that.

[handi243]

I use clear fingernail polish always worked for me!!!!!!!!!!

[Tommyt]

I find more than not, when Locktight is Used  you end up Stripping screw Heads if and when its time to move the Scope
Tommyt

[Steve P]

Purple loc-tite (or 222) is easy to remove as is fingernail polish.  Both work good with most scope screws. 

With the heavy recoiling guns, you may HAVE to use blue loc-tite (242) to keep the screws in place.  You just have to remember if you do use the blue, you may have to heat the screws to get them out.  A pencil torch or one of the small butane torches available works wonders for heating screws to melt the loc-tite without damaging the finish on the scope base, rings, or barrel.

Good luck and may your screws stay tight so your scope doesn't embed in your forehead.   

Steve

[hunterspistol]

  Loctite lets go with heat, a straight soldering iron on the screw head for a few minutes (not in a hurry) and it burns the loctite out.  Found this out taking out big connections with a cutting torch. Works on tiny stuff too.

[Redhawk1]

Use blue Locktight, that is what I use on all my heavy recoiling handguns.
I use the proper tools to remove the screws, and putting the gun in a vice or holder, will aid in installing and removing scope bases.

The people that I see strip out screws, are the ones using improper fitting tools, and trying to work on the gun while holding it.

[Tommyt]

Use blue Locktight, that is what I use on all my heavy recoiling handguns.
I use the proper tools to remove the screws, and putting the gun in a vice or holder, will aid in installing and removing scope bases.

The people that I see strip out screws, are the ones using improper fitting tools, and trying to work on the gun while holding it.

I resemble that Comment 
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OK  I really do use the correct screw/allen/hex Driver but I will now try the Hot Iron Trick

[Lawful Larry]

Like Redhawk1 says, blue Loctite.  This is the stuff that is made for this purpose.  I have used this stuff on all my bases and rings with no problems.