Author Topic: What motor for windmill (Read 12856 times)

Graybeard · « **Reply #60 on:** February 23, 2009, 07:07:51 PM »

That's kinda like a perpetual motion machine right?

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #61 on:** February 24, 2009, 04:13:38 AM »

Yep sure is GB and they just don't work to well.

BTW if Matt has one of thoses treadmill motors laying around you want to get ride of GB I still haven't been able to find a cheap one, You could send it to me and maybe Matt wouldn't notice.

Singleshotsam · « **Reply #62 on:** February 25, 2009, 04:14:40 PM »

I used to do heating and a/c work before getting into the trucking business.

A good place to check for squirrel cage motors are your local heating and a/c dealers. We used to bring in at least 3 or 4 old furnaces a week and throw them away in the junk pile. I'm sure you could work out a deal w/ them...

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #63 on:** May 08, 2009, 04:39:47 PM »

OK, this has kinda been left for roadkill for a while. I have the tread mill and am looking for a good squirrel cage fan and then what do I do? I know nothing about wiring, resistors ect, but do know what batteries are! Looking to fix up a system for a small cabin used on weekends and hunting trips. Have small Honda generator for back-up charging of batteries. Also thinking of having 12 volt and 110 wiring in the cabin/shed that I will be putting on the land. The wind blows all the time and very hard quite often. Help. DP

burntmuch · « **Reply #64 on:** May 09, 2009, 12:28:47 AM »

DP I hav,nt done anything with my windmill yet. Ive got the squirrel cage fan, inverters& batteries. I paid for a motor from a guy online, The guy never mailed it. Ive tried contacting him, hes not responding to my PMs. aparently the money was more important to his family than mine. Im just coming out of my overtime season, So I just havnt had time to mess with it. Im gonna start playing around with it shortly. I think its a awesome idea. I did pay attention to the wind at my place this winter. I average 10mph here. Ive looked for junk treadmills around here. They get scooped up fast. Im betting guys are selling them on ebay

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #65 on:** July 15, 2009, 04:45:35 PM »

Gonna bump this to the top again, still need some info on what to do and if any one has got one going with the treadmill motor. DP

Matt · « **Reply #66 on:** August 03, 2009, 12:42:22 PM »

This Charge Controller will most likely work for a wide range of applications but was designed for the treadmill motor wind generators talked about on GBO.

If you are in a location that never has high wind you can make a lower amp version by removing one of the LM1084's. Each of which can handle 5amps so use 3 for 15amps 2 for 10amps and 1 for a 5amp trickle charge.

I am testing a addon for this regulator design that will use capacitors to hold excess power and discharge it when the input voltage drops below the required level for disired output. I am sure the 20 amp version with a load will not last more than a few seconds but it should help prolong the life of the LM1084 regulators by decreasing pulsing on the input side.

I am also working on a 24v version of this as well along with a LED Voltage readout addon for quick and easy fine tuning of the output voltage. This addon will be able to be incorparated into the same encloser as your charge controller to save space.

I have also included my orginal design that used LM7815CT instead of the LM1084. Both work well but the LM7815CT version has the ability to do 100+ amps at 30v input. I do not advise leaving out the breaker for this model cause you will burn up something if you do...

With a little tweaking this can be made to run on 120v AC as a fallback for long periods of time with no wind to maintain the batteries if needed.

Please note that the intended purpose of the Treadmill motor wind generator is to charge the batteris to power low power DC devices such as LED or 12v lighting, Radios, small applicances or small inverters such as 2kw or smaller. Using the LM7815CT version you can power inverters of up to 5kw if you replace the 25amp breaker with a 100amp breaker but be carefull as the draw will generate lots of heat on the LM7815CT's and they will need larger heatsinks to prevent constant thermal overloads.

In simulations the LM7815CT version can maintain 13.8v with a 100w load simulated by the 4 25w bulbs.

Below is the info for the LM1084 version and links to the harder to find items.

Matt

------------------------------------------

The LM1084 LDO Regulator can be purchased here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/LM1084ITADJ-Integrated-Circuit-LM1084_W0QQitemZ380026774186QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item587b5c62aa&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

Be sure to use a 35 amp FWB or higher: or 4 high rating Power Diodes
Here is a good link to the FWB:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/FWB-358/35-AMP-800-VOLT-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER/-/1.html

U1,U2,U3,U4 = LM1084 LDO Regulator ( MUST USE A HEATSINK )

C1 = 50v 2200uF
C2 = 35v 47uF
C3 = 0.1uF ceramic

R1 = 1.5K Ohm 1/2watt 5%
R2 = 120 Ohm 1/2watt 5%
R3 = 0-5k Ohm Pot

F1 = 20amp - 25amp fuse or self resetting breaker if one can be found.

D1 = 35-AMP-800-VOLT-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER ( only needed if you want to be able to charge with both AC/DC if only using DC this is not needed)

LED1 = Red, Green or Yellow LED

J1, J2 = your choice of connectors for input and output or direct solider to PC Board

Matt · « **Reply #67 on:** August 10, 2009, 12:05:02 PM »

Ok folks... I have just gotten in a large order of the parts to build these charge controlers.

I will be building them to resell for anyone who needs them or sell a DIY kit for those who want to have the fun

of building it themself.

20A unit without V/A meter will be $30.00
Kits for same $20.00
Shipping : $7.00
------------------------------------------
20A Unit with Input Voltage and Output Voltage/Amp meters will be $125.00
Kit for the same $100.00
Shipping $14.00
------------------------------------------
For the 60amp version of these add $35.00

Turn around time 2 - 3 weeks.

I also still have a few Treadmill Motors left if anyone needs one. $75.00 each plus $18 Shipping.

Matt

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #68 on:** August 10, 2009, 12:37:21 PM »

I may have to send you some money Matt, I have been trying to find a used treadmill since you started this, I have been a day late or a dollar short every time, Gotta check the cash box ta see if anything is in there besides dust.

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #69 on:** November 14, 2010, 05:57:47 AM »

I'm gonna bump this up to the top again, still want to get something going here and think this might tie in with the thread on solar panels being discussed. Possibilities of merging the 2 systems together? DP

Chickasaw Hunter · « **Reply #70 on:** November 24, 2010, 04:58:07 PM »

A fellow by the name of Dan Fink of Ft. Collins, CO wrote a series of articles about building your own windmills in Backhome or Backwoods Home magazine a year or so ago. Good article and he deals with all of the issues you guys have been discussing here. His method is to use the magnets and make your own "motor" so the windmill generates at the most common windspeed and will shut itself down when the wind speed picks up to a dangerous level. If your intereted in spending your time and effort on a project like this, checking out his articles would be well worth while. CH

Gaz-52 · « **Reply #71 on:** November 25, 2010, 01:06:51 AM »

Just to throw another option into the mix , do a google search on "savonious rotor wind turbines" .This vertical shaft wind turbine is easier to build and needs less moving parts than your conventional horizontal shaft windmill. They have been used with 12vdc & 24vdc car and truck alternators as they will produce useable power at low speed. A hybrid system using a combination of solar & wind would be more reliable IMHO.

RemingtonMagnum · « **Reply #72 on:** November 25, 2010, 02:22:30 PM »

Squirrel Cage?

IF you have someone with an old mobile home... that has changed over from the original furnace to some other heat start asking. Many of these old home have the furnace just sitting inside not of any use. The blower motors really move great volume of ail and will take in a lot. Many times the blower is burned out and they just changed over to a new style of heat. You don't need a usable motor just the setup with good bearings and blower cage. Give it a try.

It may be necessary to press out, or remove the rotor, and old motor shaft and press in a new longer section of Cold Role Steel usually 1/2"

Don Jackson Remington Magnum/Ultramag

jedneck · « **Reply #73 on:** December 19, 2011, 01:56:37 PM »

I know this is an old thread, but it has a lot of info in it. How would the treadmill motors work on a water wheel application? I know that op is windmill, same idea differant power. I will be using a 6 -8 foot breastshot wheel.

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #74 on:** December 20, 2011, 01:24:09 AM »

Matt you have some great ideas. Ever think about getting some finantial backing and producing some of them for the marketplace. With this 2012 crap going on people are snatching up anything like this.

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #75 on:** September 01, 2012, 02:16:54 AM »

burntmuch · « **Reply #76 on:** September 01, 2012, 04:52:29 AM »

Wish I had more to report on this. That project got set aside. I am working on a 12 volt lighting system for the house, using RV lights with LED bulbs .My plan is using a couple batteries When the batteries are low, charge them with a generator. Poss pick up a few small solar panels. Im in an area that doesnt get that much wind. So I think solar panels may work better for me. Wish I had time for all these projects, but between working overtime, keeping food in the fridge, & keeping momma happy, I have to keep my project list short

Matt · « **Reply #77 on:** September 14, 2012, 01:18:01 PM »

Quote from: burntmuch on September 01, 2012, 04:52:29 AM

Wish I had time for all these projects, but between working overtime, keeping food in the fridge, & keeping momma happy, I have to keep my project list short

I know what you mean. I wish I had more time to work on projects on my list but I never seem to find it.

Quote from: Lloyd Smale on December 20, 2011, 01:24:09 AM

Matt you have some great ideas. Ever think about getting some finantial backing and producing some of them for the marketplace. With this 2012 crap going on people are snatching up anything like this.

Yes I have and found a few that was willing to help but never came up with enough money to have a real chance of being able to pull it off so I just put it on hold.

I do want to share an update to this concept of a treadmill motor wind generator.
After some tests I found that using a squirrel cage fan will produce power to charge a battery bank but no extra load can be placed on the generator. The problem was not in the motor but rather in the fan. Under high winds it will perform well but in low wind areas I just dont think it will be very effective as the only source of charging.

Now I came up with a solution and that is to get a bigger fan. So after looking at was available on the market I decided I just could not find a suitable and affordable fan.

So I came up another idea, 55 gallon drum. Now I know there are a lot of folks out there cutting 55 Gallon drums in half and then off-setting the halves to make a windmill and that is all well and good but what type of over speed control do they have and what is to prevent that 55 Gallon drum from flying off and doing major damage? Most everything I have seen worked with the motor to govern the speed and under high winds that can cause other problems in the system over time. Another method was a type of break but those to require constant maintenance.

So I came up with my own solution, a centrifugal break on the drum itself but without any friction or heat to contend with.
The idea was to take a 55 gal drum and cut 4 large rectangle holes in the sides of it ( to create the panels ) then re-attach the panels that was cut out with hinges so that when closed the drum looks whole again.
There will also have to be stops placed on the inside of the drum to prevent the panels from being forced into the drum to far or a thin sturdy strip can be attached around the 3 non hinged sides that would prevent this but be sure if you use this method that there are no flat surfaces on the leading edge or it will still catch wind.

Next, you will need to decide what method you want to use to mount the drum, you can fix a solid link between the pole and drum and use saddle bearing on the pole with set screws to prevent movement. If you do this then you simply need to put a pulley on your pole and then mount your motor and attach a belt.
Or you could have the bearing on the drum and have the pulley on the drum and let the whole thing spin on the pole. It is up to you what works best for your application.

Next you will need to build the break system which a picture of is attached. My plan is one break on top of drum one on bottom of drum and then a Plexiglas weather cover on the top of the drum just for good measures.

If anyone want to build it let me know and I will give you the info you will need.

Matt

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #78 on:** September 15, 2012, 03:40:11 AM »

I'm being an idiot here Matt. Not sure I follow how this works, does the speed of the drum force the panels to close by moving the attachment point to go farther out on the brake assembly, pulling the door closed? Do you still have the charge controllers available? The area I would put it can see winds of 50 plus mph some days, mostly 10-25 mph on a normal day. DP

Matt · « **Reply #79 on:** September 15, 2012, 06:18:40 AM »

Quote from: dpe.ahoy on September 15, 2012, 03:40:11 AM

I'm being an idiot here Matt. Not sure I follow how this works, does the speed of the drum force the panels to close by moving the attachment point to go farther out on the brake assembly, pulling the door closed? Do you still have the charge controllers available? The area I would put it can see winds of 50 plus mph some days, mostly 10-25 mph on a normal day. DP

Yes the square blocks on the assembly are weights and use centrifugal force to close the panels. The weight can be adjusted to suite the max speed for your system. The idea is that as the speed increases the "doors" will close up thus catch less wind and then as it slows it will open a little more and speed back up. It should allow for a more or less constant speed in the higher winds without having to shut the system down to protect it.

I am also working on a failsafe or backup to this that will use a solenoid to engage a break of sorts to stop the unit and then allow another solenoid to activate a lock pin that would prevent any movement of the drum at all. This is a bit more complex and I am still prototyping it but the idea is to have a "Lock Down" button inside that you can push for a quick shutdown and also have an automatic system just in case you are not around to hit the button.

I have attached another image with the labels.
If you a charge controller just PM me.

Matt

rickt300 · « **Reply #80 on:** November 29, 2012, 04:50:16 AM »

Another idea for motors. There are a heck of a lot of the toy 4 wheelers out there and most have low RPM DC motors in them, most often two of them. I just acquired two of the toy wheelers and the dissection is about to happen. I would also think that starter motors from cars or lawn tractors would be of some use. And what about motors from driers and washing machines?