Thinking about doing a re-blue

[JPSaxMan]

Hey all,

Haven't posted on here in a while...life tends to keep ya busy like that!

But anywhoo, I've been thinking lately about re-bluing one of the Remingtons (if not both). I have an 870 Wingmaster and a 700 ADL (with the matte blue barrel) that have been sort of rusted up over their years of use. I'm thinking the 870 wouldn't be too hard to do but maybe the matte blue of the 700 could be tricky.

Any opinions/advice/tips and tricks before I go about this? I've never done anything like this before but from what I've heard it's nothing overly difficult. I've already tried the WD-40 method on both guns and the rust doesn't seem to want to come out. Plus I have some scratches that I figure a re-blue could help fix.

Thanks for any feedback!

[island66]

JP:

I tried rebluing a Browning A500R one time using the Birchwood Casey bluing kit.  It turned out HORRIBLE even after following the directions closely and taking my time.  My recommendation would be to leave it to a qualified professional.  It may cost a little more initially, but you'll be much happier with it in the long run.  My bluing guy is John Mann of Mann and Son Sporting Goods in Pinckneyville, IL.  He's the best I've seen.  In fact, he reblued that Browning for me and it looks like new.  Give him a call 618-357-2911.  He'll help you out. 

Jason

[JPSaxMan]

Thanks Jason. I'll have to look into it a little further - I myself was looking forward to doing a DIY project but if it's going to end up making things worse by doing it myself then I'll have to either let it go for now or just put up the cash over the summer.

I was thinking of using the bluing kit you mentioned - what kind of problems did you encounter with it?

[quickdtoo]

I've used BC bluing products, but they aren't as good as Brownell's Oxpho-Blue creme which is an exceptionally good cold blue, it won't be as deep as a hot blue, but it provides an even finish and looks very nice. 

Tim

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1108

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=2&i=507

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,127424.msg1098458823.html#msg1098458823

[Graybeard]

If the rust is that bad forget bluing and just degrease it good and use Rustoleum paint as I suggested long ago in the Old Injun Tricks Forum. I used acetone to degrease then hung them and started with rust red primer and followed that up with flat black. I left it setting one day on a really hot summer day with the windows of my Bronco closed and it effectively baked that paint on. Now perhaps 20 years later it's still on there except where the barrel sat in a gun rack in the Bronco on my trips to the woods and the bolt and trigger guard areas where most hand wear takes place.

If I wanted I could touch it up quickly but haven't bothered.

A blue job to be done right requires polishing out all the rest pock marks and that's a lot of trouble for no good reason. Just paint them.

[island66]

Thanks Jason. I'll have to look into it a little further - I myself was looking forward to doing a DIY project but if it's going to end up making things worse by doing it myself then I'll have to either let it go for now or just put up the cash over the summer.

I was thinking of using the bluing kit you mentioned - what kind of problems did you encounter with it?

Mine ended up VERY streaky and rusted worse than the original rust that I was trying to fix.  My understanding from talking to Mr. Mann is that cold blue is not near the same as hot bluing in terms of sealing the metal and protecting it from rust.  I would not use a BC kit again if it was given to me.  The Brownell's product is probably better, to be sure.  I just think that cold blue is best used to cover up small repairs, etc rather than refinishing whole firearms.  You can certainly call the Brownell's tech line and talk it over with them.  Dave Bennets is a great resource there. 

Jason

[JPSaxMan]

Thanks for the reply fellas.

GB, the rusting isn't all that bad. I'll look into trying your method first, before doing a full reblue.

Thanks Tim and Jason for the helpful hints. I guess I'll just keep looking around to see what the best option would be. I could always live with the rust, of course; its a sign of character, right?

[kix]

  Saxman  Try some Formula 44/40 gun blue. For years I tried perma-blue and all I got was streaks and disgusted. If possible, heat the metal in an oven till it's pretty warm, apply,let dry,wash off w/water and re-heat to start over. It will take more than one application but you will see the difference immediately and that always gives me the patience to apply many more times for a deeper blue. When you are finally satisfied be sure to coat well with WD-40 and keep an eye on it because it will rust. Apply plenty of WD. If you are like me you will be astounded after so many years of trying to blue with "good products".  Kix

[TXSPIKE]

I tried my hand at blueing a revolver and a shotgun recently and I must say they both turned out really well.I degreased the guns with Formula 409 household cleaner and fine steel wool.Then I heated the steel with a propane torch until it was not too hot,but very warm just about enough to see a little steam appear when you apply the blueing.I used the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue for these two jobs and they looked like they had factory blue when I was done.After blueing I wiped them down real good with gun oil.