Author Topic: nikon  (Read 765 times)

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Offline deerjackie

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nikon
« on: December 24, 2008, 12:23:45 PM »
why is it that nikon thinks everyone shoots the same weight bullet with their so called bdc muzzleloader and slug hunter scopes?  why not build turrets with a variable between yardages for the load variables? the bdc 250 is designed to zero at 100 yds using 150 gr by volume bp and a 250 gr bullet. what if i dont want to shoot but 100 gr by volume and a lighter or heavier bullet?or is that why the circle is there to allow for the differences?i have never been a big fan of any bdc style scope even a shepherd has crosshairs installed for a particular cal and load.all said you still need a good rangefinder to make any of this work.what are your opinions?dj
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Offline KRP

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Re: nikon
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2008, 02:23:36 PM »
Why not just buy a scope with turrets and work up a drop chart?  Or buy some knobs from Kenton Industries?  Or buy a Leupold and have a custom reticle installed?  Or have TK Lee install some dots for you?  Or...? ???  Nikon's BDC is generic just like most others, you need to shoot it with your rifle and your load to see what ranges it actually works at.  It's the same as using an MOA or Mil reticle for hold over.  With a variable power SFP scope you can adjust the magnification to alter the subtensions of the reticle also.

Offline 30-30man

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Re: nikon
« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2008, 02:31:17 PM »
You shouldn't need the BDC if you know the range of your target and know the ballistics of the grain you're shooting.  I've hunted mainly with 7.62 x54r 180gr this year.  I've zeroed at +2 at 100 and I can hit the bulls-eye at 200.  Beyond that, I let them walk.

Offline deerjackie

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Re: nikon
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2008, 11:25:29 PM »
i have a friend who thinks this bdc is the turnkey solution to his muzzleloading problems and  its only the begining of some new ones imo.
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Offline Busta

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Re: nikon
« Reply #4 on: December 25, 2008, 07:44:25 AM »
i have a friend who thinks this bdc is the turnkey solution to his muzzleloading problems and  its only the begining of some new ones imo.

While I would agree that a BDC scope is not the solution to any muzzleloading problems, they can be a very useful tool IF you do your homework at the range. This 3-9x40 Leupold just showed up on my doorstep yesterday, and when winter is over, I plan to wring it out. I will do a full report when I do. The thing I like about this scope is by just changing the power ring to another setting it will compensate for the drop in ANY load of your choosing. The center crosshair stays on zero for any setting, so I plan on getting zero at 100, then shooting at the other ranges using the crosshairs, then checking the POI with the other dots. By benching your rifle, all you have to do to check the accuracy is put the crosshairs back on the bull, the dot for that range should like up with the POI of the bullets on target. If they don't, just dial up or down in power until they do, that would be your setting for that particular load. I will do that with all my pet loads and by process of elimination, I will be able to figure out what setting will be best for each load. I am not saying this will be an exact setting for every bullets trajectory, but should work well out to 200 yards. I doubt that I would ever shoot further than that unless it was perfect conditions and the range and trajectory was known. I have heard guys say, I sighted it in at 100, so I am good out to 250. I say BS, you have to do your rangework to find where your individual load and rifle are going to print at those distances or those settings on the scope.

I hope people don't think that these scopes are the fix-all for shooting long distance, because if you can't already shoot long distance, you don't have any business doing it. I look at these scopes as a tool to aid someone that is already versed in long distance shooting, but also knows their limitations when they are hunting under field conditions and not setting at the bench. Big difference!

With this scope, it will allow you to tailor the setting to your load, versus loading to the setting IMO. That to me means several loads, from the 200 grain SST in my .45, to the 350 grain Hornady FPB or 460 gr No Excuses in any of my .50's. I will just have to do the rangework first, and figure out the best trajectory setting. I don't have any grand illusions of shooting out to 250 or 300 yards in the field for deer, so this should work well for me. I may shoot out to 300 yards at wood chucks with my .45 Elite loaded with 120 grains BH209 and a 200 gr SST or lighter bullets with an appropriate charge once the trajectory has been all figured out.

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Online Graybeard

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Re: nikon
« Reply #5 on: December 25, 2008, 11:48:18 AM »
Why not just do it the "old fashion" way and learn your rifle's trajectory and how to compensate for it yourself. Technology can't do eveything for you. You still have to point the rifle and pull the trigger at least.


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Offline LaOtto222

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Re: nikon
« Reply #6 on: December 26, 2008, 12:55:37 PM »
Why not just do it the "old fashion" way and learn your rifle's trajectory and how to compensate for it yourself. Technology can't do eveything for you. You still have to point the rifle and pull the trigger at least.

I have to agree with Bill. Beware of the rifleman with one rifle is a saying that holds so true. Once a rifleman learns his rifle, he becomes a dead eye shot. He does not have to think about hold over, windage and such. He so familiar with his rifle that he knows where it is going to shoot.

There are exceptions however. If you shoot many different rifles, it is difficult to remember all the adjustments to make or hold overs. It would make it much easier if you had a scope that was zeroed for several ranges.

I like a mil-dot scope for this purpose. You can even use it for a range estimator. If you know the mil-dot distances you can use it to estimate the range of your prey and then use it for hold over and windage. With mil-dot scopes - When I go from one rifle to the next, I can use the same technique. if a PD is 12 inches high and a mil-dot is 3.6" between dots and the PD is two dots high I know the range is about 166 yards out, if it is one dot high I know it is about 330 yards out. If a PD is about 3/4 of a mil-dot distance it would be 450 yards out. Once you estimate the distance you can then give it proper hold over, by the dots again. Of course this is estimations. If a PD is not full grown, it will throw off your range estimates. This really does not come into play a lot until you get out to the 300 yard range or more, depending on your rifles trajectory. You can use your mil-dots for windage too. If you know what your bullets will do in a 10 mph cross wind, you can hold into the wind by the number of dots to compensate for it, double it for 20 mph.

Then there is shooting one rifle all the time and become familiar with it to the point of just knowing...

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Offline eye shot

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Re: nikon
« Reply #7 on: December 28, 2008, 03:43:28 AM »
deerjackie
   If your ML load is low or high say 3" at 200yd using the BDC you still have a kill shot on a deer with a 15" kill zone. You can fine tune using the top and bottem of each circle. The BDC works great with the slower stuff like ML's and slug guns!
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