how long of a day will I be in for if I knock the pins out and dissassemble

[john keyes]

my sidekick for deep cleaning?

Sadly my book by jb wood doesn't have any H&R stuff in it...

I know alot of people irrigate the action with brake clean and stuff but I would like (or maybe not)
to drop the trigger out etc,

is it a nightmare to get back together?

[quickdtoo]

Detailed complete trigger work is covered in the FAQs and Help sticky by Perklo, download his instructions, once you've done one, it's easy, the first time is a little nerve wracking tho, took me about 2hrs for a trigger job, start to finish, now I can R&R it in 5 minutes or so. 

Tim

[john keyes]

"One of the biggest challenges to disassembly of
the Handi-Rifle is that the internal action parts
are held in the frame by round top, press-fit
cross pins. These are securely held in place by
the ridged splines on the left side and the round
tops make it very likely that a punch will skate off
as you try to drive them out. A ugly gouge on the
frame side is the usual result when this happens,
so I came up with a simple method to avoid this.
I padded the left frame side with hobby store felt
and mat board and put a piece of 1/2" thick board
against the right side pins. My piece of board was
1/2"x10"x4". I then put the padded frame and
board in a vise and tightened down on the
padding and wood a good bit, enough to leave the
impression of the right side round pin tops in the
board, but not to crush the frame."


thanks quick, that is a killer instruction set, I'll need an afternoon to make the slave pin and the wooden templates.
I quoted the above because I had always noticed the unusual appearance of the pins and I'm really glad I found you and this info BEFORE I went to start knocking them out.

When people did this on their sidekick/huntsman I wonder how much junk they found...

[Busta]

When people did this on their sidekick/huntsman I wonder how much junk they found...

John,

I have had my Huntsman for almost 6 years and shoot it more than any other rifle I have. I never disassembled the action until about a year ago, I was surprised to find no corrosion in there. Not even the firing pin or spring had any rust on them. I do clean the firing pin by just dripping some Break-Free in and working it back and forth. After that I didn't worry about it any more. My Huntsman frame is nickel, and not blued, ss pins/parts so take that into consideration.

When I did my #11 conversion, the firing pin would stick after 5 shots or so. I would work the firing pin back and forth with Break-Free to free it up, then after that test was through I knocked out the firing pin retaining pin to thouroughly clean out the blowback. Just keep things lubed up and you should be fine.

I don't shoot Black Powder or Pyrodex anymore, so if you shoot either one of those, you might want to fully strip it down. Those powders are the most corrosive, especially Pyrodex. I have shot 777 in mine 90% of the time, I have also shot Pyrodex Pellets in it when it was new, but now it is mainly BH209.

[Walleye Magnet]

I can't speak for a Sidekick but I can disassemble / clean / assemble my H&R Huntsman in no time.  The first time I did it I took pictures of the parts as I disassembled them.  That way I could check myself and see which way then go back in. 

[MI.sabot]

I do clean the firing pin by just dripping some Break-Free in and working it back and forth.

Busta:

If I'm reading this correctly.....the firing pin & innards gets sufficiently lubricated by placing a couple drops of CLP in the hole on the face of the receiver where the firing pin comes out?

[Busta]

I do clean the firing pin by just dripping some Break-Free in and working it back and forth.

Busta:

If I'm reading this correctly.....the firing pin & innards gets sufficiently lubricated by placing a couple drops of CLP in the hole on the face of the receiver where the firing pin comes out?

I actually work in a drop from both ends, and work the firing pin back and forth by pulling the hammer back, engaging the transfer bar and pulling the trigger while holding the hammer. Keep the trigger pulled and just push the hammer back and forth, as long as your transfer bar is still engaged the firing pin will move back and forth. Of course this is done with no barrel on the receiver.

[john keyes]

Busta, just to clarify, the reason I will do this is because I can imagine a couple pounds of soot  trapped in there, causing a failure to fire.   

I know your saying you didn't have much junk in yours despite lots of use but I use the primer carriers and you use the ACP plug.

My ML season opens Jan 10, I'm good to go for now, not gonna mess with it until the season is over and I'm bored, and when there is more daylight 

[Busta]

I hear ya, and your right, I only used the primer carriers for the first 2 years. I got rid of that mess as soon as I was able. I think your making the right decision by waiting until after season. As far as for the daylight, start early in the morning unless you have the slave pins, those are a life saver.