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Author Topic: Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.  (Read 1545 times)

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Offline Hondo64d

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« on: August 25, 2003, 04:30:34 PM »
I have a Browning Low Wall in .260 Rem.  My wife gave it to me a couple of years ago, and it is the most beautiful factory rifle I have ever owned, but, alas, it is a heart breaker because it doesn't shoot much better than 2'' three shot groups at 100 yards.  Anybody got any experience making the rifles shoot?  I am pretty much willing to do whatever it takes, as the rifle is much too gorgeous to let go of, and pretty special with it being a gift from my wife.

John
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Online Graybeard

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2003, 06:21:57 PM »
Dang John I wish that LW Hornet above for sale of mine was a .260 Rem. If it was it wouldn't be for sale.

My LW .243 is one of the most accurate rifles I've ever owned. Shoots most every thing but Barnes bullets into tiny little groups at 100 yards that almost always measure from about 0.4" to about 0.8" Hardly any thing goes over an inch. Never done anything to it but shoot it.

First thing I'd do is check the forearm to see if it is binding on the barrel. If it is placing uneven pressure on the barrel that will affect groups. But truthfully I've not heard much good about the accuracy of the .260 Rem. in much of anything. Dunno why but it just seems most don't shoot tight groups. Might have something to do with the twist rate compared to the bullet weights being used.

What have you tried in yours so far as to bullet weights and ammo?

GB
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Bill aka the Graybeard
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Offline Hondo64d

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2003, 05:54:58 AM »
I've tried mostly 129s and 120s, with a few factory 140s.  They all shoot about the same - around 2".  I have been neck sizing.  I am thinking about full length sizing as I have read that neck sizing may not be the best in a factory chamber 'cause it may not produce the straightest ammo if the chamber isn't just right.  I do think I have a little bedding problem.  Just a little contact on one side of the barrel.  You reckon it might respond to a set screw against the barrel like the ruger #1s?

John
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Lord, grant me the strength to change the things I can, the serenity to accept the things I cannot, and the wisdom to know the difference.

Online Graybeard

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2003, 10:16:28 AM »
No! A set screw is not the answer. The forend hanger on the LW is totally different than the Ruger #1 and is independant of the barrel unlike the Ruger. Your forearm should more or less free float and not touch the barrel or it should have full and even contact. See if you can't make one of these happen. The hanger is attached to the frame/receiver and not the barrrel and the forearm attaches then to the hanger and is not suppose to be bearing unevenly on the barrel.

I don't buy the story about neck sizing. That's just what it is for it to make factory chambered rifles shoot more accurately but leaving the round more fully supported by the chamber than if FL sized. I've never see it hurt. Don't always help but never seen it hurt.

GB
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Bill aka the Graybeard
President, Graybeard Outdoor Enterprises
256-435-1125

I am not a lawyer and do not give legal advice.

Jesus is the way, the truth, and the life anyone who believes in Him will have everlasting life!

Offline Hondo64d

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2003, 05:48:32 AM »
Graybeard,

From what I remember from my Ruger #1, The hanger arrangement of the Low Wall is similar to the #1.  The hanger on the #1 does not contact the barrel.  The main difference that I could see is that on the #1, the mainspring is attached to the hangar, whereas on the Low Wall, the mainspring is inside the action.  My understanding is that the purpose of the set screw on the #1 is to tune barrel harmonics.  It seems like you could do the same thing with the Low Wall.  There is an outfit called Broad Creek Rifle Works that specializes in accurizing #1s.  he has also done some work on Low Walls.  I was thinking of sending it to him to see what he could do with it.  I also want to have a decelerator put on it to get a little longer length of pull, and I would like to have the gloss finish removed and an oil finish put on.  You know anyone who does that sort of thing?

John
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Offline moonbow13

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2003, 10:22:56 AM »
I have a LW in .260, a real deer slayer.
It prints nice little clover leafs at 100 yds. and nice groups at 200 yds. shooting Remington 120 gr. Ballistic Tips.
Got a Leupold 3.5 x 10 on it.
Maybe you're just not clean or loose in the mounts.
Forgot, did you say if it was new or used?:?
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Offline Hondo64d

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #6 on: August 28, 2003, 03:30:02 PM »
Bought it new.  Scope mounts are tight.  Have actually shot Remington factory loads with the 120 BT, but it shot about like everything else.  i'm going to get this rifle to shot.  Just gotta figure out how.

John
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Lord, grant me the strength to change the things I can, the serenity to accept the things I cannot, and the wisdom to know the difference.

Offline Lone Wolf

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #7 on: September 09, 2003, 11:30:52 AM »
I have a Browining Low Wall in .243 and she's the sweetest rifle in my battery.  Shoots 3 shot groups under .4 MOA at 100 and 5 shot groups avg. .7. If she wasn't so pretty she'd be my constant companion in the field.  :D
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Offline jelting

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2003, 03:48:02 AM »
All i can say about my LW 243 is its as beautiful and accurate as you can buy. 100 gr noslers and varget shoot one little ragged hole!!  7.21
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if it wont shoot an inch, i dont want it!!!!!!

Offline Hondo64d

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Making a Browning Low Wall Shoot.
« Reply #9 on: September 13, 2003, 01:54:59 PM »
I'm envious of you guys.  Wish mine shot that well.

John
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Lord, grant me the strength to change the things I can, the serenity to accept the things I cannot, and the wisdom to know the difference.

Offline onthetractat1645

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Those beautiful LWs
« Reply #10 on: October 13, 2003, 10:21:39 AM »
I'm envious of all of you who own LWs I've ben looking for a .260 for years with no avail.  From all I've ever read the .260 has a rep for being one of the most efficient, accurate & not picky about the rifle that's firing it-cartridges ever made (not to mention the heavy for caliber bullet's SD that rivals the killing power of much bigger "Flame thrower" magnums)  So I doubt that the chambering is to blame.  Check the muzzle or just recrown it-it won't hurt and is the most sensitive part of the barrel & the easiest to fix. It absolutely must be perfectly perpendicular to the bore's centerline so the escaping gas leaves the barrel at the same all around the bullet or it will get tossed off course.  Also the barrel tuning makes sence to me & is easily removed.  So if you are really commited to this thing shooting tight groups then what the hell right?  Otherwise just let in the gun case to look pretty instead of hacking it & trashing it's worth (there doesn't seem to be as many of these vs. other chamberings floating about) & buy a savage to mess with-they're kinda like Camaros-cheap enough to soup up & play with to run with the Corvettes.

Hey-it's just one guy's view point!
Good luck, Chief
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Shoot safe & keep 'em tight!

Offline Quadzillabill

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Another tack driver....
« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2003, 02:39:06 PM »
I can't help you on the .260, but let me pile on and say that the brand new .243 (fired 6 times acording to the original owner) that I shot this weekend for the first time was shooting under 1" holes at 100 yards off the rest once I got the Nikon Monarch zeroed in.  

The thing came to me and was originally 8" high at 100 yards - "only" 4 inches at 50.   :roll:   No wonder he sold it.

FUN gun to shoot, and a beauty to boot.   :lol:   Good luck with yours.
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