New Brass?

[PigBoy Crabshaw]

I have new some new 308 Win brass on the way. I assuming I should check the length and trim and clean/deburr before loading the first time. If I'm using this brass only in my handi 308win should I use the full size die every time I'm going to reload the fired brass or should I include a collet die in my new supplies I'm gathering for only neck sizing? By not full length sizing every time will it extend the life of the brass or do I have the use of the collet die wrong?  I'm planning on getting Hornady New Dimension dies for it. Thoughts?
Thanks again for reading my newbie/lame reloading questions. After asking 100's of questions here on reloading, I should put togeather a reloading for Dummy's book and have the proceeds go to the graybeard board.    -gary

[stimpylu32]

Gary

Your going to want to FL size the new cases and then trim , once that is done then go on with your normal case prep like chamfering the case necks . As for the Collet die , I just use the FL sizer and partly FL size to just do the neck and the upper part of the case body , your not going to be over working the cases that much by doing it that way .

With the Handi your going to want to bump the sholder back about ever 3rd or 4th firing anyhow just because of the frame flex , so the FL die is going to be needed anyhow , why spend money for a Collet die when you can spend it on bullets . 

stimpy

[Val]

The advantage of a neck sizing die is you don't have to lube the brass when resizing. The Lee neck sizing collett dies work just fine and don't cost much. You should be able to buy a die set with a full length and neck sizer as well as the bullet seating die. Although I have Lee, RCBS, Hornady and Redding dies I currently prefer the Redding dies when they are avaible in the caliber I need.

[Grumulkin]

Some guys like to do unnecessary work.  Why resize new brass?  Do you think the brass you buy is any different than the brass of the loaded cartridges you buy in neat commercial boxes and happily shoot?

Until recently, I've NEVER resized or trimmed new brass of any description.  It's a waste of time.  The exception was my recent loading for a 460 S&W Revolver.  New brass had to be resized to prevent bullets from moving out of the case under recoil.

[stimpylu32]

Some guys like to do unnecessary work.  Why re size new brass?  Do you think the brass you buy is any different than the brass of the loaded cartridges you buy in neat commercial boxes and happily shoot?

Until recently, I've NEVER re sized or trimmed new brass of any description.  It's a waste of time.  The exception was my recent loading for a 460 S&W Revolver.  New brass had to be re sized to prevent bullets from moving out of the case under recoil.

The reason I size all my new brass is that I have found that most of it comes out of the bags with either egg shaped or folded case necks , new ammo has the bullet to keep this from happening were plain brass only has AIR , as for trimming that I do as I have found that some of the case necks are slightly softer than others and pull more causing the cases to be slightly longer than the rest so once they are sized they get trimmed to a consistent length .

If I was just buying 20 round boxes of the high dollar Norma brass I too would not have to size and trim either , but alas I am a cheap skate .

stimpy

[1sourdough]

 Often times new brass will have the mouth out of round. I just put it in the die enough to get it straight then check for length & trim if needed.

[sr sawyer]

  IF?  you are looking for  maximum accuracy from your new brass you should full length size and trim.  Everything a reloader does to make his loads more consistent equals accuracy.  More years ago than I would like to remember my Lyman manual said to size and trim all new brass.  I have always done it because the book that I bought back when (and really could not afford) said to.  For some reason everyone is looking for a short cut and not following the instructions of the people that pioneered this hobby. 

[Tn Jim]

I have gotten new brass that had bent case mouths, too long, or small dents in the body or shoulders. I give every case a full length sizing and trim before I load them. It makes case prep more uniform and saves me unwanted surprises later on.

[OLDHandgunner]

I always run new brass through the sizer die.
Many years ago on my son's 257 Roberts new brass, the primer flash hole was solid ( no hole ).
I never take shortcuts with reloading. It's worth the extra time to be safe.

[Grumulkin]

I wish to make several points:

1.  I have no objection to anyone resizing their new brass but I rarely do it.
2.  Though I hardly ever resize new brass, I do inspect it all before loading it.
3.  Small dents in the case mouths and shoulders don't hurt anything.  If you use too much lube in resizing, you'll get dents in the shoulders.
4.  If case mouths are out of round, I don't even bother rounding them out if I'm seating boat tailed bullets.  The bullet rounds them out just fine.
5.  The allegation that "maximum accuracy" will result from full length sized and trimmed cases is false.  I've personally experienced enough exceptions to this to know it isn't always so.  On the other hand, I also know that neck sizing as opposed to full length sizing also doesn't always result in the most accurate load.  There seems to be exceptions to every "rule."

[Lloyd Smale]

i do it just on the chance that one or two may not be in spec. Usually you can get away with sizing them with no lube to save the mess.