Author Topic: Unique & Uniflow problem (Read 1178 times)

Jal5 · « **on:** February 10, 2009, 02:22:54 PM »

I am loading 38 spl, 3.9gr Unique in one batch and 4.0 gr in a second batch. First time using the Uniflow. Followed directions and ran about 1/2 lb of powder through it. Ran my first loads to be as close to 3.6gr as I could get it then wanted to weigh the charge and trickle up to 3.9 or 4.0.

That measuring screw confuses me, do you set the measurement as the mark under the lock nut, which is the only mark you can see, or above the lock nut but you cannot see that once it is tightened down? I set it as the mark under it only to get very high readings. I finally moved it between 0 and 1 by the mark under the lock nut, which threw a charge of 3.6 gr.

Secondly, throwing the powder into the cup for the scale resulted in a small amount of powder flying out all over the bench top. Whats the correct way to do this? Is it the Unique which is flake shaped or am i messing up?

Thanks.
Joe

charles p · « **Reply #1 on:** February 10, 2009, 03:02:14 PM »

Set your powder thrower to the exact grain weight you want to reload. It will be very accurate I expect. You can spot check your weights but I expect the variance to be very little at the 4 grain level.

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #2 on:** February 10, 2009, 03:25:29 PM »

I don't use the markings. I adjust it with a scale till I get what I want, lock it down and throw some powder. I use a case to catch the powder instead of the pan don't throw it around as bad that way. That or hold the pan closer to the spout.

Jal5 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2009, 04:23:56 PM »

thanks guys I will try out your suggestions, I think it will help. I will let you know
Joe

cwlongshot · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2009, 04:32:24 PM »

I LONG ago gave up the use of the majority of powder measures for flake powders. Too many problems!!! Don't waste your time!!!

I found a nice drum type measure that doesn't have the problems associated with reg powder measures. its made by RCBS and called a little Dandy. Also for a cheaper option, Lee powder dippers work very well to.

CW

Savage · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2009, 05:04:50 PM »

I adjust my powder measures the same way Bob does, and adjust them to throw the exact charge. Mine are pretty consistent. At the volume I reload, I don't have the time or the inclination to weigh charges. My pistol rounds are loaded on a progressive where every round is charged by a powder measure. Same goes for my .223 ammo, all charges thrown by a powder measure. My powder trickler hasn't been out of the cabinet in 20 yrs.
Savage

Glanceblamm · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2009, 05:39:51 PM »

lots of complaints here over the years about metering flake type powders and it usually starts with Unique. I beat this one early by keeping the larger bottom cavity on my three slide unit completely closed off. I use the top two slides to create a shallow long trough that meters the Unique, Blue dot, and others great. My measure? that old Lyman #55 dinosaur.

carbineman · « **Reply #7 on:** February 13, 2009, 05:40:05 AM »

Not the best way to cure the problem, but what I did was quit using all the "difficult" types and strictly use "ball or spherical" types now. Extruded and flake have given me troubles with bridging in the Uni-Flow. I keep AA#2-BLC-2 or WC846milsurp-W748 all in large quanity caddies. I can load everything I have with these four. All work well in my Uni-flow. I do keep a little of WC4831 but have to hand weigh these for 7mmSTW and load maybe 20 per year.

Also, just put your pan up tight to the bottom of the plastic metering thimble and throw your charge, then lower pan and it will be right there in a nice little tidy pile. After you get the metering screw locked in just check every 10th or 20th charge

cwlongshot · « **Reply #8 on:** February 13, 2009, 06:32:20 AM »

You guys don't have to give up anything...

Just get the proper tool for the job!! A waffle faced framing hammer is no good for trim work! Nothing against the hammer or the trim, just the wrong tool for the job. That beat-up old cheby pickup might do fine taking your daughter to the alter.. but the Lincoln or a Caddy will be much nicer.

That little dandy is what I use for the flake powders, but there are a number of good choices from other manufacturers. The Uni-Flo is excellent for ball and small extruded. Couple it with a trickler and the larger stick powders work perfectly well also. FORGET THE FLAKE POWDER in a Uni-Flo!

CW

buck460XVR · « **Reply #9 on:** February 13, 2009, 08:13:57 AM »

Quote from: cwlongshot on February 13, 2009, 06:32:20 AM

You guys don't have to give up anything...
Just get the proper tool for the job!! A waffle faced framing hammer is no good for trim work! Nothing against the hammer or the trim, just the wrong tool for the job.

funny.........the last twenty years or so my job has been as a trim carpenter...I also make and install custom cabinets and casework. My hammer of choice is an old 24oz long handled straight-claw Estwing framing hammer with the waffle-face ground down. The longer handle and heavy head makes me use my whole arm and not just my wrist...thus helping with my Carpal Tunnel. If you hit the nail and not your thumb or the wood it don't leave any more of a mark than the 14/16oz trim hammers.....in other words, knowing how to use your tools correctly is as important as what tools you use. I load all my plinking loads(.357 and .44 anyway) with Unique and my Uniflow..... no problem.

Jal5 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 13, 2009, 09:58:21 AM »

I am gonna keep at it with the Uniflow and refine my technique a little. Cured the dumping powder on the benchtop by putting the pan all the way up to the plastic metering tube and gently lowering once the charge is thrown- not something anybody mentions in the books! I will also make one of those baffles, like the one shown in the accompanying instructions which I attached here. thanks.

Joe

cwlongshot · « **Reply #11 on:** February 13, 2009, 09:59:51 AM »

Quote from: buck460XVR on February 13, 2009, 08:13:57 AM

funny.........the last twenty years or so my job has been as a trim carpenter...I also make and install custom cabinets and casework. My hammer of choice is an old 24oz long handled straight-claw Estwing framing hammer with the waffle-face ground down. The longer handle and heavy head makes me use my whole arm and not just my wrist...thus helping with my Carpal Tunnel. If you hit the nail and not your thumb or the wood it don't leave any more of a mark than the 14/16oz trim hammers.....in other words, knowing how to use your tools correctly is as important as what tools you use. I load all my plinking loads(.357 and .44 anyway) with Unique and my Uniflow..... no problem.

There is always one...

Seeing as you ground off the waffle face, (I don't know why as that hammer is made BOTH with and with out a waffle face) you DO UNDERSTAND about the proper tool for the job. You made adjustments to that hammer fit the job at hand.

BTW, are you the one my momma warned me about? If so I have been waiting for you.

CW

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:18:22 AM »

I have an old Uniflow. I bought it used about 30 years ago. I set up my scale for the weight I want. I then adjust the Uniflow to a weight a little below the weight I want. I then throw the charge into a .375 Winchester case that has a spent primer in it tight against the bottom of the metal spout. I then dump it into the pan. I let the scale settle and then trickle in the pan until I "zero" out. I use a Redding trickler. It is not as quick as going directly into the case or even throwing the exact charge, but it serves my purpose and I do not have to worry about bridging and throwing a short load. For one thing, I enjoy my time at the bench and get a little satisfaction from making sure I get the exact amount needed every time. #2 - I am a little fussy about my reloading. #3 - I do not reload for any semi-autos. I load for single shot guns for the most part and a couple revolvers - a 357 S&W Model 66 and a Virgina Dragoon single action in 44 Mag. My other hand guns are either T/C Contenders or rim fires. All my center fire rifles are single shots. So volume is not a big deal with me. I have got a RCBS Charge Master 1500 about 2 years ago that sped up my reloading some, but I still use the method described above for small volume (light weight) charges, especially Unique. Good Luck and Good Shooting

Here is a Pic of my set-up

buck460XVR · « **Reply #13 on:** February 13, 2009, 04:47:27 PM »

Quote from: cwlongshot on February 13, 2009, 09:59:51 AM

BTW, are you the one my momma warned me about? If so I have been waiting for you.

CW

nope. never knew your mom.......at least that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

Jal5 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 16, 2009, 06:17:21 AM »

LaOtto-

that is pretty much the way I have been doing it too and it works for me. I too am reloading for single shot rifles and the 357 so volume is not as important with me. I think it will be a matter of practice and getting the technique refined so that I can produce consistent rounds for both.

I like the deck thing that you made to set up the powder measure and the scale, I may duplicate that one. right now the scale is mounted on a shelf at just about eye level but I am not happy with the slight movement in that shelf for either the scale or the powder measure.

Tn Jim · « **Reply #15 on:** February 16, 2009, 08:24:53 AM »

I've been using a Uniflow for Unique (among others) for 18 years and have never had the first problem. Very consistent too. Jal5, I hold my scale pan right up to the spout of my Uniflow with all powders and it doesn't splatter powder all over the place that way.

Tom W. · « **Reply #16 on:** February 16, 2009, 08:58:39 AM »

Uniflow and stick powders aren't the best for me...All others seem to do just great....

carbineman · « **Reply #17 on:** February 16, 2009, 06:07:04 PM »

When reloading for 9mm-.223-and 7.62x39mm production is somewhat important to me but so is overall cost. I told myself many years ago when I could afford a Rock Chucker kit, I would purchase the kit (get rid of the junk I had) and use Rock Chucker kit forever. Outside of adding the Trim Mate I still use the same stuff I purchased many years ago. I now use One Shot instead of the roller pad, but I still use my single stage kit and the components that came with it for all my reloading..

By using the ball type propellants I can speed up the process while still using my Uni-flow which I've already paid for and still make good quality "homemade" ammunition.

While a progressive might be of help, I only save money by using what I have not by buying more gadgets. Now that is just the way I operate, and have been by necessity a frugal person my whole life.
YMMV

Tn Jim · « **Reply #18 on:** February 16, 2009, 07:11:14 PM »

Tom, I throw stick powder a couple grains short and trickle the last couple while it's sitting on the scale. A lot more precise and less aggravating.

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 16, 2009, 09:16:04 PM »

Jal5 - I just bought a cement block at the local lumber yard (2"X8"X16"), 24" X 1/2" all thread (three 8" legs), rubber cups (glued on), 1/2" rubber washers (go on bottom of block) and some 1/2" washers and nuts. I think it cost some where around $10 or so. Took it home and drilled the block for the 1/2" all thread and cut the all tread to length, (depends on your application how long). I later added the Uniflow to the mix. I drilled two through holes and used concrete screws to mount it up with (can be seen flanking the 375 case). It is very solid and not wobbly at all, it stays put too (read heavy). It gets the scale right up at eye level when I am setting down. I bought an extra block, thinking I could use it if I cracked the block during drilling or make it two blocks thick to add extra weight. I did not crack the block and I did not need the extra weight. Good Luck and Good Shooting

WILD_WEASEL · « **Reply #20 on:** February 17, 2009, 08:31:53 AM »

I bought an RCBS Little Dandy almost 20 years ago, and after 20 years have accumulated rotors 0 through 26. Think there may be a 00 and 27 too but have not had the need yet. I use it for my handgun reloading along with 30 Carbine and 22 Hornet with great success. It works great with Bullseye, Unique, 2400, and H110.

If you spread out the acquisition of rotors over several years like I did the cost is not prohibitive. Rotors fit nicely in a plastic 12GA storage box.

Selmer · « **Reply #21 on:** February 25, 2009, 12:27:44 PM »

Sell the Uniflow for a good price, buy a Lyman #55, and never look back...

carbineman · « **Reply #22 on:** February 26, 2009, 11:01:40 AM »

Quote from: Selmer on February 25, 2009, 12:27:44 PM

Sell the Uniflow for a good price, buy a Lyman #55, and never look back...

Sounds like a good idea.

wncchester · « **Reply #23 on:** February 26, 2009, 11:16:24 AM »

Selling the Uniflow is not a bad idea, you can often get more than new mail order retail for used green stuff on ebay due to the hype.

The Lyman is a good choice but, IMHO, a Redding or Hornady measure with the accessory pistol chamber is even better for light charges as well as large rifle charges.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #24 on:** February 26, 2009, 01:21:52 PM »

Quote from: Selmer on February 25, 2009, 12:27:44 PM

Sell the Uniflow for a good price, buy a Lyman #55, and never look back...

The Lyman is a good unit, but bridging and sticking powder problems with it is why I now have the RCBS!!

I do miss the "clacker" on the front. That was a nice feature!!

The Redding is a nice unit! I haven't used the Hornady.

But if another measure is in your future/budget. Take a look at RCBS's Lil'Dandy I mentioned some posts back. Its a very nice unit!

CW