Glass bedding contact

[CoffeeInMe]

At what points are the contacts suppose to stop with a Stevens model 200 when glass bedding ?
Is the front to stop making contact somewhere around the barrel nut or the flat lug ?
And what about the back free floating...then where does that contact stop exactly ?
Thanks

[Catfish]

The best shooting gun I ever had was bedded in from the front of the stock to the back of the action without release agent. I do not recomand that, and if you get 3 more replies they will probily each be alittle different. I like to bed in the action from the frount of the chamber to the back of the action. Some only bed in the recoil lug and the rear of the action, but I like bedding along the sides of the action too.

[CoffeeInMe]

Sounds like great advice.
Thanks

[Don Fischer]

First I bed the recoil lug and the rear tang and float everything else. That doesn't work, I like to get the action and then the barrel under the chamber. If you do the barrel under the chamber be sure to keep the bedding straight across the barrel channel to avoid building in a pressure point, I did that once!

[Hank08]

I bed the receiver ring, recoil lug and 2"of barrel in front of the receiver, free float the rest of the barrel.  I don't usually bed the tang unless there's some obvious problem with it.  I've obtained excellent accuracy with this method. It's OK to do the tang but not necessary unless the tang has been over inletted so that tightning the rear guard screw puts a bind on the action.
H08

[CoffeeInMe]

Thanks for all the great information.

[bja105]

I have several Savage rifles.  I do not bed the barrel nut, for two reasons.  First. I change barrels and can't be sure the barrel nut will always be in the same position.  Second, the grooves in the barrel nut could make a mechanical lock.

I bed the recoil lug back to the front action screw, then again from the rear of the magazine to the rear action screw.  I prep with a little PlayDoh in the corners of the magazine, in the front action screw hole, and at the tab in the rear of the recoil lug.  Recently, I have been using the rear action srew and pantyhose tied around the stock and front ring to hold it as it cures.

[Don Fischer]

I have several Savage rifles.  I do not bed the barrel nut, for two reasons.  First. I change barrels and can't be sure the barrel nut will always be in the same position.  Second, the grooves in the barrel nut could make a mechanical lock.

I bed the recoil lug back to the front action screw, then again from the rear of the magazine to the rear action screw.  I prep with a little PlayDoh in the corners of the magazine, in the front action screw hole, and at the tab in the rear of the recoil lug.  Recently, I have been using the rear action srew and pantyhose tied around the stock and front ring to hold it as it cures.

Having never bedded a Savage, why couldn't you simply fill the groves in the barrel nut with clay and bed it also? Take it apart and remove the clay anf it rides on the larger dia.

To bed the rear tang, I remove wood under it and put bedding in it when I do the recoil lug. don't poy the rear screw back in but fill the bolt hole with clay. Also you'll need to shim up the barrel in front to keep it from picking up the rear tang. Usually just a couple wraps of tape does it.

[CoffeeInMe]

This is excellent.
Thanks again.

[jro45]

I've never beded a rifle barrel or action I get my gunsmith to do it for me. It doesn't cost much to have it done.

[trotterlg]

I think everyone is missing some info about bedding the Stevens.  These things have pillars installed from the factory.  The bad part is that they are installed so that the action hits the stock before it hits the pillars.  A proper pillar bedded action will have the action firmly sitting on the pillars while just touching the bedding around them and the the rest of the stock.  To bed these properly you need to remove plastic from the stock until the action only sits on the pillars, then the bedding builds up the stock so that it just touches the action when it is tightened down on the pillars.  If you have properly pillar bedded a stock, when tightening down the action screws, they will go from finger tight to fully tight in less than half a turn, this tells you the action is sitting on the pillars and not being distorted by pulling down on the stock.  On a Savage the tang should not touch the stock.  One other thing to do is replace the plastic trigger guard with a metal one, if you don't then the front action screw is tightening down on plastic between the metal pillar and screw head, not a good way to do things.  Larry

[CoffeeInMe]

Thanks again for the help and information. This is all part of a discussion between me and my co-workers and what will be done to my rifle when it returns from the woodworker/gunsmith. I have about 1 to 3 more weeks before I will see it again.

[skb2706]

The few I've done were not Stevens but older Savages. I did the rear tang, recoil lug and the first 2 1/2" of the barrel w/nut. Filled the grooves in the nut with clay and it won't matter if I remove the nut or not. I also bedded the metal replacement trigger guard into its inletting.

[diggler1833]

On the Savage/Stevens line you pan probably get away with putting clay into the groves on the barrel nut as stated above.  Every gun reacts differently to bedding though.  I personally bedded mine from the recoil lug back to the mag well, and then again around the rear action screw.  On my Remington's I go about an inch forward of the recoil lug back.  Some bed differently, but if the end result is an action that sits true into the stock then there is no right/wrong way really.

[CoffeeInMe]

Well I havent seen my rifle yet
I hope to be getting it back within the next week to two.
I will then have a chance to see the results.