Author Topic: #1 forearm swaps (Read 942 times)

jiminpa · « **on:** September 03, 2003, 04:18:14 AM »

has anyone taken a 1a forearm and put it on a 1b? would like to put mine on a diet!! thanks!

dclark · « **Reply #1 on:** September 03, 2003, 03:42:00 PM »

I have a No. 1 that came with a Alex Henry forearm with a 26" bbl and no sights, which would be a 1-B today. That forearm would interchange with other 1-B's. The bbl on the 1A is considerably smaller in diameter, so the forearm would have to be inletted, but would otherwise work fine. It would be easier to use the forearm from a 1-S, other than the .45-70. They are about the same dimension as the 1-B.

dclark

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #2 on:** September 06, 2003, 12:52:44 PM »

Hey there #1 fans,

As already said, the forearm should fit with bit of barrel channel work..

While you are at it, float the barrel channel and glass the forearm too the barrel hangers. Makes a solid connection with no barrel pressure!

Just some thoughts on the Alex Henry forend. Realise they are/ maybe just my opinions but maybe some one else dislikes the funny shape of the end grove as much as I do.

I once got a good deal on a #1 S in 300 win. mag. Then the question was what to do with that ugly forearm. Thought on it for a bit and came up with one of the nicest ways to take care of an ugly problem.

Solution - set the forearm up in a GOOD miter box so that you can cut through the forend JUST behind the grove at a 45 degree angle. Stay as close as possible to the grove!!!!!!!!!!

I have used a 90 degree cut for my tips for years, BUT there is not enough distance between the grove and the checkering in this case. With the 45 degree cut, there will no more then minor cleanup on the checkering if care is taken during shaping and finishing. Might be a good time to clean up all the checkering.

Then tip the forend with about an 1 1/2 inch of ebony or in my case some nice contrasting walnut. Finishes off real classy and you can still use the barrel mounted sling swivel. Whatever you do, forget any spacers of any kind or color, just a nice tight 45 degree joint line will will do fine!!

Other then a custom stocking job, this is one of the nicest forend I have seen. Slim, trim and classic.

Keep em coming! :wink:

marlinman93 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 09, 2003, 05:27:33 PM »

I have a 1978 Ruger #1 Lyman Centennial, and I love everything about the gun, except that ugly Ruger forearm. What's the purpose of the stupid groove cut near the muzzle end of the forearm?
I'd love to fit a nice light forearm similar to a Hi Wall, or Ballard on it, but the wood is so beautiful and then there's the great checkering. Guess I'm stuck with this fat stupid forearm!

jiminpa · « **Reply #4 on:** September 10, 2003, 01:59:34 AM »

my thinking is it's for cross sticks.. but i've been wrong before! i would rather have it than the big fat "benchrest" style on the 1b's.

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #5 on:** September 10, 2003, 07:00:56 AM »

Hi again #1 fans,

Like I have already said, do a bit of work as listed above on my post and you will have a forend you can love.

No fat, no dumb grove, just a slim - cool - maybe even a bit sexy forend!

It is really a simple operation for anyone who has done a bit of stock work and gives the oppertunity to float that barrel.

Keep em coming! :wink:

marlinman93 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 11, 2003, 05:01:37 PM »

I like your idea Darrell, but I need to find another forearm to do it with. I don't like mine, but it is a very collectable model, and I want to keep the original forearm intact.

WW1 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 02, 2003, 05:51:28 AM »

Hi just my 2 cents worth..the Alexander forend I believe was notched for the use of shooting sticks.....also think I read one time it is a replica of one for times long ago, the Farqueson I believe....I could be wrong as I am older now, but I guess I am not as discriminating but I kind of like it.....ww1