Hi guys and thanks for the kind words. I converted my first pistol grip stock to a straight out of frustration of not finding one to match and old H&R straight set than I and and loved. I nervously made one up and to my surprise it came out identical to the old original I had. The originals had a somewhat flat area on the bottom of the stock where the pistol grip is on the newer stock, by cutting off the pistol grip and some judicious sanding you can relpicate the originals. I have never tried to make a schnabel forearm out of a newer rounded style but it could be an interesting experiment.
As an aside and while I am talkiing about forearms, with the kind help of member DALESCARPENTRY, a talented carpenter, we made up a bunch of Rosewood blanks. I sent him the rosewood blanks cut to size, he planed them and cut the barrel channels and sent them back to me. They finish out to a very nice wide and long target type forearm. I only wish I could post pictures for you guys. Perhaps when my desktop computer returns from the shop I will again try to do so (I am working off an old laptop now). At one time I did post a few pictures, our digital camera died and we got a new camera, and my computer recently just about died so my picture posting was over.
My latest creation is a straight stock made from a Monte Carlo with the leading edge of the Monte Carlo just a bit enhanced to try to replicate a bit of a Shutzen style stock. I really like it and it now is on my .223 with an 12 gauge Ultra or 10 gauge shotgun long forearm for a great free float of the barrel. I have a bipod on it and it shoots great with the bipod, something not many Handis are known to do, perhaps because the barrel is extensively free floated by the large forearm channel. This is close to a bench gun but it does have a standard wieght barrel for ease of carry (less wieght). I am daily expecting another forearm (without the spacer) I bought here in a 3 way deal for the next project I am working on.
There are several ways to cut down a pistol grip to a staright stock. I usually scribe a line on the stock where I want to cut and always cut to the "fat" side leaving myself a but more sanding, easier to do that that try to grow wood back. I started using a nice compound sliding miter saw that workmen on my addittion had set up in my garage during construction (an expensive saw). Be sure to place shims under the stock to keep it from rocking on the table and clamp it securely to the table. Be VERY careful or you may lose fingers ot parts of them. Clamp the work SECURELY and proceed slowly and deliberately. After the cut is made sand into final configuration and refinish. I usually USE a citrus based stripper and then final sand and steel wool prior to refinishing.
This "pallet wood" varies and you never know how it will take stain or waht color it will turn out. It absorbs water based stain (harder to work with) easier than oil based satin and the wood usually does not have much figuring. I want to do a grey stock set but think it will come out featureless , however I will try one someday.
After doing many I now do them on a new table saw I purchased, and they are coming out great. like anything else, it is the expierence and confidence that helps with the outcome.
Be very careful to leave the edges intact where the buttplate or recoil pad go, you do not want to round these edges by agressive sanding. Many fine old military stocks were ruined by backyard gunsmiths who refinished the stock of old, and at one time cheap, surplus military rifles. I still cringe when I see a nice old militray rifle with the value and appearence ruined by some hack with 80 grit sandpaper.
I would be happy to help out anyone with instruictions or a stock. Any questions just ask....<><....
