Author Topic: case lube  (Read 643 times)

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Offline cridertj

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case lube
« on: March 28, 2009, 02:52:41 PM »
I am sorry if this is another dumb question but i just loaded my first 40 rounds of 204 and used some rcbs lube with a pad and the stuff worked good but the cases were very sticky afterwards and was wondering if you all use something different if not how do you get the stuff off?

Offline stimpylu32

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Re: case lube
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2009, 03:00:33 PM »
For years I used the Lee lube in the white tube and just wiped it off after it dried , then I found Imperial Sizing Wax , don;t think I'll ever go back to the Lee stuff .  ;D

I have never used it but a lot of loaders find that the spray lubes like the Hornady One Shot to be a very good way to lube with very little mess .

Not sure , check the bottle but I think that the RCBS lube is water suluable , if so just wipe down with a damp cloth after sizing .

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Offline cwlongshot

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Re: case lube
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2009, 03:53:38 PM »
 I also used the pad and lube for may years. It did work just fine. About a dozen years back someone introduced me to DILLON spray on case lube in a bottle. I haven't used anything else since!!!

 BUT, its not going to solve your problem as its still lube on the case. I keep a shop rag handi and wipe every case off right after sizing. Then, I throw them in my tumbler for about ten-fifteen minutes. NO more lube to worry about!!!

CW
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Offline Mule

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Re: case lube
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2009, 06:49:29 PM »
My routine is to clean cases in ground walnut.  Spray with Dillon case lube.  Deprime/Size.  Polish in corn cob.  Prime and load.   Run the tumbler long enough to have a cup of coffee and all the lube will be gone.

Offline LaOtto222

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Re: case lube
« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2009, 12:28:19 AM »
I also use the RCBS case Lube 2 and a pad. It is water soluble. You can wipe it down with a wet cloth, but if it is inside the neck, it will be difficult to get out of that area by wiping. I clean my cases in a vibratory case cleaner or a tumbler (I have both). I then push out the primers. I clean the primer pockets and dry brush the inside of the necks. Then I lube up the cases and re-size either neck or full length. I drag the case mouth across the edge of the pad to get a little lube inside the case mouth. That area never seems to get used up when rolling cases across it. After resizing I use a small bucket and put some warm water in it and dump the cases into it. I swish the cases around in the water for just a bit. I then spread them out on a towel to dry over night. If I am in a real hurry I flip the water out of the case and put them in an old cake pan and pop them into an oven for a little while. I have also used a hair dryer to dry them out too. I have used the RCBS Case Lube 2 for shrinking down 223 cases to 221 and for shrinking down 375 Win cases to 30-30. I have never had a stuck case and as long as I do not have too much lube on the case (you get hydraulic dents) it goes real smooth. I think the real trick to using Case Lube 2 is getting the pad conditioned correctly. Too much and you get hydraulic dents, too little and you will get stuck cases. I does not take very much to get a quality job. When the pad gets a little "dry" I squeeze a little out in the middle of the pad and then take an old business card or a refrigerator magnet (it will wash up) and spread it out evenly across the pad. If I have too much I roll cases on it and the wipe some lube off the cases with a paper towel, but not all of it. I do this until when I roll the cases across it, they have the correct amount on them. If my pad becomes dirty, I run it under warm tap water and wash it with a little soap and then rinse it real good to get the soap out. I then towel it dry and let it set for a couple of days to thoroughly dry. I then reapply more case lube. You have to make sure the vent hole in your die is open too, if it is plugged, it will cause dents. I have and used Hornady One Shot - I still like RCBS Case Lube 2 better. Keep your powder dry ;D ::) Good Luck and Good Shooting
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Offline Doug B.

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Re: case lube
« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2009, 01:46:19 AM »
I keep a rag with paint thinner (mineral spirits) handy. This will remove any type of lube from the case and I've found that it appears to leave a very light coating that keeps my cases nice and shiny.
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Online Lloyd Smale

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Re: case lube
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2009, 01:55:56 AM »
I buy anhydros lanolin to make bullet lube with and it makes a great case lube too. Just mix 1/3 lanolin melted with 2/3s iysopropol alcohol (red bottles of heat) and put it in a spray bottle. Put your cases in a box spray some in shake the box and let it sit and in about a minute or two the alchohol flashes off. Its about the same lube that lee sells but a whole lot cheaper.
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Offline cwlongshot

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Re: case lube
« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2009, 02:09:26 AM »
I buy anhydros lanolin to make bullet lube with and it makes a great case lube too. Just mix 1/3 lanolin melted with 2/3s iysopropol alcohol (red bottles of heat) and put it in a spray bottle. Put your cases in a box spray some in shake the box and let it sit and in about a minute or two the alchohol flashes off. Its about the same lube that lee sells but a whole lot cheaper.

You just described DILLON case lube!!!   Yours is likely cheaper, but sounds like its the same stuff!!

 Good show!

CW
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Offline victorcharlie

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Re: case lube
« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2009, 01:34:15 PM »
+1 on the imperial sizing wax.....
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Offline Darrell Davis

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Re: case lube
« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2009, 06:24:39 AM »
I thought wiping case lube off cases was just part of the game/process.

Now if you want something which IS HARD to get off the cases, try STP.

Over the years, I have formed lots of .308 brass to .243 with the result of a bunch of stove piped necks.

I found that STP, just a bit on the finger of the case handling hand, solved the problem except for the case cleaning.

Then awhile back, I read the tip of using the Imperial Sizing Wax for forming. GOOD TIP!!

No more hard clean up and no stove piped necks.

I have also used the Imperial Sizing Wax for forming 30/30 brass to 25/35, a task for which it worked equally well.

Good product!

Keep em coming!

CDOC

PS, don't forget to turn those necks down on your 308 to 243 conversions, as without it you may make an unusable wall hanger out of your nice and expensive .243!
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Offline res45

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Re: case lube
« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2009, 08:06:05 AM »
I use the Lee lube and pad,after resizing I just throw my cases back in the cob media for about and hour while I do something else,then prep the cases and load as normal.  I just let the tumbler do all the cleaning work.
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Offline KAYR1

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Re: case lube
« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2009, 12:53:01 PM »
I've used the lube pads, but have found that One-Shot works well for me. Dries fast,and it says it wont degrade powder or primers, but I always tumble after sizing anyway. I've used the shop rag wiping method if Im not doing a high volume batch. Either works fine

Offline Skunk

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Re: case lube
« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2009, 01:15:26 PM »
I use the Lee Lube that comes in the tube. I just put a glob of it in a small spay bottle, then fill the bottle with alcohol, and shake it until the lube is fully dissolved. Just spray it on the cases and wipe off any residue with a rag after sizing.
Mike

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Offline wncchester

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Re: case lube
« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2009, 04:12:17 PM »
For the first 20 or so years, I used RCBS/Lyman lubes like STP.  Works fine for sizing and case forming but it sucks to clean off cases and hands.

Then I found Lee white stuff in a toothpaste tube; love it, used it for years.  Easy to clean with a damp cloth.

Ten years ago I found Imperial; love it best of all.  Just wipe cases down with a dry cloth, no sticky goo left on my hands either.

If I was doing hundereds of cases at a time I'd use a spay lube of some type, probably home made. 

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