Deringer issue

[Bubber]

A couple years ago I was given a "Philladelphia Deringer". Jukar brand which isn't suprising. I have played with it some but the damn thing will not fire the majority of the caps. The hammer spring is strong back around full cock but looses almost all of its power down where it counts. It is a little coil spring about 1 1/4 inches long. I have tried finding a slightly stonger and longer spring but have been unsuccesful.

What manufaturer, if any, carrys parts for these and what are the chances of me actually getting some new guts for the lock. I kinda like the thing and short of buying an entire new lock and rebuilding the thing I am at a loss.

Any advice?

[kevthebassman]

You could take some measurements of the spring, and then look on McMaster-Carr's website and see if you can find a spring to match.  McMaster has thousands of springs to choose from.  I'd have a hard time believing you couldn't find something to match it on their website.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#spring-coilers/=1kcfxe

[bedbugbilly]

Just a suggestion and maybe you have already checked - remove your lock and put some transfer graphite or blacking on the spring and on the tumbler and re-assemble it.  Cock it and snap a cap on it and see if by any chance the spring or tumbler is rubbing somewhere in the lock mortise - if it is, take a small chisel or similar tool and remove enough wood to stop the binding.  As I said, it is just a suggestion but if the main spring appears to be strong enough, the spring or the tumbler may be catching just enough on the way down to stop the inertia - I hope you get if figured out!  Thanks! 

[ZVP]

 I have the CVA kit and lost the nipple.
 Anybody know what size I have to look for to replace it?
 Thanks,
 ZVP

[Bubber]

I will check McMasters.

I am positive that nothing is binding within the mortice. This spring is very strong but the lock is just of a poor design in my opinion. As the hammer falls and the tumbler rolls forward the direction of force changes and the force of the spring is just lost. This is why I was wanting a slightly longer spring, but with that I my very well run into issues where it will not compress far enough to achive full cock. It has been rather maddening.

ZVP. The nipple on mine does not have the standard 1/4-28 threads, they are much coarser. I am honestly not sure what it is. But after an incident I had with another muzzeloader I am stocking up on nipples for all of my smokepoles and was wondering the same thing. It is way down the list of my concerns presently, I will start that battle after I can make the lock work.

[Skillet]

I had a "New Orleans Ace" deringer that had the same problem.

Sometimes I had to drop the hammer 2-3 times before it'd bust the cap.

I fixed it by making the nipple smaller on the OD.

Just chuck the removed nipple into a drill (chuck down on the threaded portion).

Now get it spinning and work it down with some sandpaper and maybe a fine file. You are trying to get the caps to set all-the-way-down on the nipple.

Those Deringers (got a "Philly" myself) have weaker locks than on full-sized pistols and rifles.

That's how I fixed my Ace.

Next I'll do the same for my Philly, as I sometimes get misfires myself with mine.

The caps are just too tight on the nipple and sometimes the second try will get 'er going, after the first drop has pushed the cap down far enough to detonate.

BTW Dave (one post up) good to see you outside the Dianawerks site!

Skillet

[ZVP]

 Skillet
 I am LOVING the Revolvers!
 Haven't shot an airgun in weeks... I'm just so stoked and reading EVERYTHING I can find! You know me, gotta know about my guns!
 I forgot you like BP guns!
 They're sorta like airguns in the respect you can use different bullets/balls and you get to vary more than bullet weight/styles to get them to preform, AND I sure don't worry they'll defend life and loves either.
 ZVP