Author Topic: Coon Boxes (Read 1760 times)

Mallard · « **on:** September 16, 2003, 06:42:44 AM »

I'm playing around making a few coon boxes and decided that I wanted to maximize the wood I bought for the project. The boards are 1x10"x10'.
Am I shooting myself in the foot by only making a 14 1/2" long box? I can get 2 boxes made from 1 board and have no excess using 14 1/2" sides and bottom, and a 16 1/2" top. Thoughts?

Alos, what are your thoughts on a 2" overhang on the roof section?

Appleknocker · « **Reply #1 on:** September 16, 2003, 07:34:55 AM »

I think 14 1/2 is sufficient as long as you don't put your coni in very far. I use boxes about that length and put my coni in just far enough to set the coni on the wood. I then stabalize with a roofing nail on the bottom or top depending on size of coni and box. I have never seen an advantage for an overhang myself. Maybe if I was in Canada trapping Pine Marten, I would consider an overhang just to keep some snow out. Now that I have thought about it; probably would not keep much snow out either. Most of my boxes are disguarded paper boxes, and they have a slope on them, but do not consider it an advantage or disadvantage. It is just made that way. Are you using 220s or 160s?
Appleknocker

Mallard · « **Reply #2 on:** September 16, 2003, 08:34:05 AM »

The boxes will primarily be for 220s, and as you know, were restricted to 160s on land and can use a 220 if 4 off the ground or used in a dog proof, or similar container whatever that means. I purchased a couple dozen square buckets for the farm properties where domestics are absolutely not a problem, but I also have some state land where trails are sporadic, and the opportunity seems to call for the dog proof set if going with the 220. Ive had some avoidance issues with the larger coons committing to a trail set 160, so my thoughts have me leaning towards a 220 box with the trap set in 2 and in addition have a 2 overhang to try an appease the dog proof or similar stipulation. I understand the roof helps detour the dogs, but have no first hand knowledge. It would be a very rare occasion to see a domestic out on these sections, but when dealing with shared land I always try and anticipate a domestic encounter.

Edge · « **Reply #3 on:** September 16, 2003, 08:57:53 AM »

Mallard,
The accepted local rule for dogproof is an opening no larger than 6" dia;ie,the box and trap can be large,but the opening to get to the trap has to be 6" or less.This enables me to use ground level 220 boxes for fisher.
This applies to state land only;there are no laws governing the size of ground access conibears on private land.

Edge

PS If you have WRITTEN permission to trap corporate-owned lands,they are considered private concerning conibears and turkey permits.

Mallard · « **Reply #4 on:** September 16, 2003, 09:41:17 AM »

Good to know. I take it this means a loose lid on the opening of a square bucket cubby? Where did you find this reg spelled out? I have aksed for a definition of "dog proof" 1000 times to the DNR and they are completely in the dark it seems.

Edge · « **Reply #5 on:** September 16, 2003, 06:40:44 PM »

Its not spelled out,I frequently interface with my co's on these obscure laws.They did,however,show me something in writing about the 6" opening;perhaps that is the size of a 160?I'll check tomorrow as I have to go crab about someone shooting a flattail on private land.

Edge

Mallard · « **Reply #6 on:** September 17, 2003, 01:19:18 AM »

The guide says it is illegal to: "Set a body gripping or conibear-type trap larger than 6 inches in diameter on dry land upon publicly owned or commercial forest lands, unless it is 4' or more above the ground or placed in a box or similar container inaccesable to dogs"

The "box or similar container inaccesable to dogs" is where it becomes vague, and leaves too much inturpretation for the trapper, as well as the CO. I honestly think I would feel better about a well place box cubby than I would a trail set Belsile 160 3" off the ground as far as dogs go. With a 2 inch overhang, and placing the coni 2" in would make the trap 4" in from the top edge of the box. Thoughts?

Appleknocker · « **Reply #7 on:** September 17, 2003, 02:30:39 AM »

You hit it on the head, that the Michigan law is vague and allows for individual CO interpretation when it comes to defining dog proof. Probably your best bet is to discuss it with you local CO and abide by what he/she is comfortable enforcing. Enforcing is the key, because if they get a complaint about the box you and your CO agreed on, then the CO has to defend you and your rights rather than the complaintent. Do you know something about this years coon prices that makes you want to go through this aggrevation for major coon trapping?

I no longer set specific for coon, unless that is what the land owner wants in exchange for me trapping on their land.

Coniboy · « **Reply #8 on:** September 17, 2003, 11:42:53 AM »

Do you know where I can get plans for a dog proof raccoon cubby?I don't really want to go up to a set and see a dog in it.

Dan Mich Trapper · « **Reply #9 on:** September 18, 2003, 01:27:29 AM »

Hey Mallard , I think I just may know the answer to your question . After having a run in with our Officer on this issue , I asked him what exactly is " dogproof ". He said the trap must be placed back in the box so when it is sprung , the jaws do not stick out of the opening . If you use a #110 , with a 4" jaw spread , the trap needs to be set in 2" . If using a #330 with a 10" spread , you need to be in 5" when set .
As far as your boxes , I found some at the river but the guy didnt put a bottom on them . Just top , 2 sides , and a back. May get ya just a few more boxes by leaving the bottom off .Also with that overhang , you may not have to set your trap so far into the box to make it legal . Should help in keeping it dogproof .

Corey Hain · « **Reply #10 on:** September 18, 2003, 08:35:22 AM »

Mallard, in my experience with coon box's you will have your best luck if you just put a bottom in the back 4-6" of the box to sit your bait on, the coon will commit to the box better without a floor, it also makes it easier to rebait the box's, you can tip the box back and reach in from the bottom to rebait, and if i was you i would put fine wire mesh on the backside of the box, it seems to help to get the coon to commit also. fwiw Corey

Mallard · « **Reply #11 on:** September 18, 2003, 08:48:24 AM »

Gary,
Ducks need some more help this year in the nesting area's. We had the critters knocked back to a reasonable level a few years ago, but I've let it slip a bit due to prices, and the brood numbers have certainly paid the price. Time to get back after them regardless of prices.
Dan,
Justin?
Corey,
good call on the floor. will try that.

Thoughts on the shorter length boxes? If I was to leave out the majority of the bottom, i could stretch the sides out to 16 1/2 inches,and have a 18 1/2 inch roof, and still get 2 boxes out of each 10 foot board. I see that most like a 24" long box, but I have yet to hear any reasons why a slightly shorter one wouldn't work as well.

Dave Lyons · « **Reply #12 on:** September 19, 2003, 03:58:20 AM »

Mallard,

I don't know how this will help but, my boxes are 14" with a 6" overhang don't know if that makes it a dog proof set-up but I have never had a problem with that set-up. One thing about the overhang is they are easier to carry.

Dave

jim-NE · « **Reply #13 on:** September 19, 2003, 05:36:40 AM »

For a twist, I made some out of 1/2" plywood that were only about 10"wide x10"wide x 7"tall cube with open bottom. I made a 3" hole in top and a 3/4" hole in opposite end of same top plate. The 3/4" hole was to accomodate a 1/2" rebar stake easily. The 3" hole was set directly over a set 1 1/2" coil or #11 longspring bedded in soil or shallow water at bankside. A very loud fishy bait was placed back inside the box and a long rebar stake was pounded in through that 3/4" hole on top and also through the trap chain swivel. The opening was large enough to allow mink inside and I usually caught them by both front feet in that foot trap. A coon would reach in through the same hole and I got them by the front foot and it was always in the box to prevent chewing, etc. Was also a fairly pet-proof setup. I wonder if a similar type box could be constructed from your boards, only for this different trap and set arrangement???
Jim-NE

JUD · « **Reply #14 on:** September 20, 2003, 07:10:03 PM »

My 220 boxs are 10" tall, 10" wide, and 12" deep. I have used a 2" overhang but I really don't see any reason. In fact this year I,m going to try cutting off the overhang, plus another 1/4". Looking at it from a coons perspective, I believe the box will look more inviting without a overhang. (the box should look shorter). I always pile brush or other debri on top to keep the coon off, and to keep him from tipping the box over anyway, thus making a natural overhang. I also do not use a bottom. I fasten the bait up high in the back corner. Hope this helps, Jud.

RdFx · « **Reply #15 on:** September 21, 2003, 03:04:57 AM »

Contact the Wisconsin Trappers association for plans on building dog proof coon boxes. Contact the below person for info to get info.

wtatreas@maqs.net