Loading for accuracy

[cridertj]

I have reloaded for hunting and target but was wanting to start to work up my most accurate loads and was wondering how far off max do you all start off at? I will be loading for my 204 using 32-gr v max and 35 gr Berger with hodgon 322 and benchmark powder.

[jtech]

Start at the starting loads in the manual and work up slowly for safety. The most accurate in youre gun is not always near max.

[sk330lc]

Start at the starting loads in the manual and work up slowly for safety. The most accurate in youre gun is not always near max.

Well said..   A few rifles i have with tight chambers are almost at max with starting book loads.

[tvc15]

My most accurate loads are colser to the mid range than the max. I also discovered deer cant tell the difference in the extra 2-3 hundred fps.   TVC15

[cridertj]

thanks for the info , so i should probley start with the starting load and work up 1 gr. at a time in 5 rd groups or 10 rd?

[GameHauler]

thanks for the info , so i should probley start with the starting load and work up 1 gr. at a time in 5 rd groups or 10 rd?

Thats rule #1
And you would  be better off jumping .5 gr near starting
and 1 or 2grs nearing max.
trying to shoot without appendages and eyes is tough.
Be Safe

[stimpylu32]

Heres the way I'd do it .

32g V-max , H322 = 25.5g , 26g , 26.5g ,27g and then see if you need to go to a max of 27.5g

                 Benchmark = 26g , 26.5g , 27g , 27.5g and then see if 28g is needed .

35g Berger , H322 = 24g , 24.5g , 25g , 25.5g , 26g and then see if 26.3g is needed .
           
                 Benchmark = 25g , 25.5g , 26g , then check to see if a max of 26.6 is needed .

I'll bet you find the sweet spot will before Max though . 

stimpy

[cridertj]

thank , when i can find some more brass i will start on the loads.

[Autorim]

Is .204 brass hard to find? You might try to find some .222 mag brass to use - not as popular, but someone may have some.

[cridertj]

yes i am having a hard time getting brass right now what is the diffrentes between 204 and 222

[gypsyman]

Let me make it more interesting. Don't forget to try different primers, if you can get them. Just using a different brand of primers can make a serious change in group size.  gypsyman

[helotaxi]

The difference in the .222 Mag and .204 is the neck diameter.  The .204 is simply a necked down .222 Mag.

I usually only use .2 or .3 gn increments working the .204 and .223 since the range of suitable charges is so small and the case capacity isn't that high.  A full half grain increase might put you well past the safe limit.

[84Jim]

Heres a couple of links to help find your guns sweet spot with a little less effort than loading and firing umpteen 5 shot loads.  Due to the .204's small case capacity, you might want to consider .1 powder increments.  Also, tread lightly as you approach the max loads.  Once you see where the group clusters are, then you can go back and compare/fine tune your loads.  Good luck seeing those little bullet holes!

I've done it a couple of times and it tells you a lot about your rifle as well as being a lot of fun!

PS Randolf Constatine is a bonified rocket scientist!

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&=&mode=article&objectID=32256&catID=&subcatID=0

http://www.desertsharpshooters.com/manuals/incredload.pdf

[cridertj]

thanks for the links and info. so if using 222 mag brass will my die form the neck and size the body with out other steps

[cridertj]

also is it the 222 rem or 222 rem mag?

[teddy12b]

I'd agree with starting at the starting loads.  I have usually found my best accuracy to be about in the middle of the powder range in sierra books.

As far as brass goes, I buy mine used as once fired off of gunbroker.  It saves a lot of money and usually it's less than half of what new brass is selling for.

[helotaxi]

I got most of the brass I use for my .204 buying factory ammo and getting some practice with the rifle.  After the first firing I made a light trim cut to true up the case mouth and then deburred and chamfered the edge.  This made seating the bullets much easier compared to the factory serrated edge on the case mouth.  Factory .204 ammo is still really plentiful here (unlike just about everything else).  If that's the case where you are, that's where I'd start.

[Lead pot]

I have reloaded for hunting and target but was wanting to start to work up my most accurate loads and was wondering how far off max do you all start off at? I will be loading for my 204 using 32-gr v max and 35 gr Berger with hodgon 322 and benchmark powder.

Looking at the powder and bullet you list sort of tells my that your looking for the 4000+ speed of light velocity.
You want to be careful looking for your goal, you will be working with very high pressures of 57,000 psi.
It don't take much to tip the scale when your working with psi's  to cause considerable problems.
For the 204 with the powders you listed the difference between the suggested starting load and maximum is only 1.5 grains.
Don't ever jump your loads by one grains a 1/2 grain jump could be to much for a cartridge like the 204, I wouldn't jump more than 2/10.
There are a lot of variables with small calibers that will spike pressures fast like inconsistent inside case capacity inconsistent neck diameters that would hold a bullet tighter and that will cause a spike in pressures.
The .220 swift and the 22-250 comes to mind for this. When I was a young lad back in the 50's I had to have a 4000 foot ps rifle to shoot Fox. Well at that age for me the only brass I could afford was military surplus and 250 savage brass, well forming the brass made thick neck walls and it needed to be trimmed down so you could chamber the round. Well I didn't get a very uniform case neck and working with the Swift it didn't take much to push the chamber pressure over the top.
Well thank God the the Winchester was a good action and all I got out of it was a blown case aith a lot of smeared brass in the chamber and bolt face.
I dont know how much experience you have loading so be careful.
One more thing, chances are pushing that bullet 4000 fps you will most likely erode your throat before finding a good load and you will have to start working up a load soon enough again.

LP.

[cridertj]

i have shot both these powders close to max and havent seen any problems with the brass yet. this is being shot in my encore and the brass looks good and have not had any problems ejecting is there any thing else to look for

[SHOOTALL]

I look in the Nosler reloading man. and see what the most accurate load is and copy it . If it works great if not then i go up in most cases . I change OAL etc. before going up . If i get near max then down . Sometimes i will load their  most accurate then load some rounds up and down and see where they group. I started reloading in or around 1976. To be honest most guns have shot well with their most accurate load when the base of the bullet is flush with the base of the neck on bottle neck cart. or the crimp groove is used on others Or just use a factory load for OAL.  . YES there are exceptions 300 wby mag made me pull alot of hair out . And a 2506 i have likes to kiss the rifleing . Think about it ammo makers have to load for all action types , bbl. lengths etc. so there has to be a good common load . I know 90% of ya'll are saying " I don't shoot Nosler " OK , I don't shoot them all the time either so i check the manual for the bullet i will be loading and see if the powder listed as MOST acc. in the Nosler book is listed in the new book if so i give it a try ( got to start somewhere right . Some books give most acc. powder but not the load .
Then thewre is always the old guy at the range that has been loading the same round you are trying to load , he might share his load if you are real nice !

[SHOOTALL]

Also I always use BR primers .