Sources for lead

[JRiddle]

I was wondering if anyone had ever tried to use lead from a 'retired' auto battery?  I would think the acid issue could be taken care of with lots of water and maybe some sodium bicarb.  Never done it, nor know anyone who has...just curious on your thoughts. JR

[BCall]

That is a no-no. In years past battery's could be used after neutralizing the acid, but new battery chemistry has made it very dangerous and toxic. I cannot explain the chemistry of it, but there have been several articles on-line by cast bullet shooters about it, and ALL of them say NO. I wouldn't do it even if desperate to get lead. Billy

[JRiddle]

Billy, thanks.  Knew there had to be reason folks didn't do it.  I've been reloading for a couple of decades now, but not done any of my own casting.  I've been reading up and getting some info on casting here and there, think I may give it a try for some of my pistol loads, for starters.  Thanks again, JR

[Mikey]

JRiddle:  Billy is absolutely correct.  You really do want to stay far away from the lead plates used in batteries - the fumes resulting from lead washed with acids are very toxic and it is also possible to create small melting pot explosions using that stuff.  Please don't use that type of lead.

One of the best local resources anywhere for lead is wheelweights.  If you happen to know the repair shops where your local police forces take their vehicles for tune-ups and the like, they probalby have any number of 5 gallon buckets of used wheelweights hanging around and would probably let you take them off their hands for next to nothing just to get the out of their shop.  This is much preferred to trying to get them off the wheels of the police cars yourself..........

Also, linotype can help you cast a harder slug if you wish.  You can often find linotype at print shops that may also cost you next to nothing for just carting the stuff away.  HTH.

[JRiddle]

Mikey, thanks for the info, I'll stay away from the batteries, for sure.  I deal with a local tire shop a good bit, I'll ask him about wheel weights, and as an ex-parmedic for the county, I still know a good many guys at the shop, I'll check with them too. 

This is much preferred to trying to get them off the wheels of the police cars yourself..........Good advice, thanks

I have a question about the linotype, as there are a couple of small town newspapers close by that I may check with.  I've seen commercially available ingots of linotype, they were 84%lead,12%antimony,and 4%tin, with a hardness of 22.  Would the linotype from the printer be of the same proportions/hardness?  Would that be something that I used 'as is' or should I use it mixed with a percentage of wheel weight lead? I'll initially be making pistol rounds, .38spl,.44mag,.45LC, maybe some 9mm and .45acp as well.
Thanks JR

[blhof]

Linotype is pretty much standard to the above percents and you can use it alone, but it is better added to WW's to harden, but mostly insure complete mold fill out as the tin and antimony allow for sharper edges, more complete mold fill out.  A BHN of 22 would only be useful for rifle velocities without a gas check.  I use straight WW's with a little linotype for my 30/30 cast with no leading and excellent accuracy.