Would someone please xplain "preloading" a snare.

[Corey Hain]

Hey guys would someone please explain how to preload a snare, and what the benefits are???  I assume it makes it close smoother & faster.  Thanks ahead for the replies.   Corey

[RdFx]

Grab snare  just behind lock and down the cable approx 8 inches and pull snare fm lock over 16 penny nail or screw driver shaft approximately 6 to 8 inches with pressure.  The pulling and pressure put on cable puts a bend in snare cable close to lock .  As you said it makes cable shut quicker and smoother after it is triggered.

[Corey Hain]

Thanks RdFx  i will try it, going to start making some snares tonight.

[Bogmaster]

Corey, I load my cable before the snare is made,I use a piece of tubing to run it over and I do a little more cable than lee does.Look at the way your cable bends--if you go the opposite way you wont be happy.  Tom

[Wackyquacker]

Hey hey hey me too.  I never bothered loading snares; didn't seem any faster on the big loops that I use for Coyotes.  Now I visited with another snareman and I now have went back and loaded all my snares (AND MY FLIPPEN HANDS STILL HURT).  By loading my snares I get a better loop (wider).  I find that the loading is much more effective for snares with Cams, "S" B.A.D. s and springs than with Ambergs, but the loading helps with the Ambergs too.  I fiddled around with different dia rods /  pipes (never tried a nail, but I will tonight) and found that a 3/4 inch bolt gave me the best results.  It seems to me that the loop size impacts on the amount (length and "force"?) of loading needed.  I only use 7X7 cable and have only done my 5/64 dia snares.  I would imagine that other cable types and sizes require different approaches.  I had my snares made, formed a loop and then held the loop over the bolt and worked it back and forth.  Then I inspect the loop and hit it again if I want more width.  

Boggy and the OLD one what size loop are you using?  I'll bet on the smaller loops the loading really improves the closing speed; Yes? No?

[Bogmaster]

Wacky, I load snares for my customers.This has made my customers happy and the repeat business is well worth the time.  Tom

[RdFx]

I use a 10 to 12 inch loop for yotes and  10 or smaller for fox and cat.   On the smaller snare loops using the loading really makes the snares fast . WHen animal touches bottom of snare with chest ect and pushes a bit its zap down fast.  Ive  snared mink and those little snares are zippy little cables LOL

[Wackyquacker]

"on the smaller loops" 10 inchs  or less?  I'm just curious, I seldom use less than a 12" loop for yotes and I have not specifically set a snare line for other critters.  In any case the loading really improves the width of the loop.

[RdFx]

The loading does make width bigger on some cable types.  Ive used cable where even if you load it you have to have a big teardrop loop to get the diameter you want unless you hold sides open with hairpins or loosely twisted lite wire or such.

[Wackyquacker]

Talk to us about these differences in cable types and loop shape / size; please.  I really believe that this information is critical to answering the original question of this thread.

Now, I was setting in my chair last eveneing and began to wonder what effect the lock type used, had on the speed or speed up of loaded snares.  It seems that the cam locks are much heavier than many other "bent" locks and they fall / close fast on the cable.  How about those light locks?  Also, the way the cable hooks to the lock seems to effect the loop and effect of loading  on the loop; yes? no?  And if yes how so?

[steven49er]

Wacky I will explain why I prefer to "load" my snares but first we should explain the physics behind loading them.  What happens when a person loads a snare is in effect they are making a spring out of the cable.  When you open the loop to set a snare energy is strored in the bend that was made by running the cable over a rod or nail.  When an animal hits the loop with its chests and sets off the snare the energy that was stored in the loop closes the snare on its own with out any more pressure needed from the animal.  

The reason that I like to load my snares are that they are faster, smoother, close on their own and it works better with smaller locks.  I really think that by loading snares will greatly reduce on non-neck catches.  One of the reasons I believe that fox are hip caught is because a non loaded snare requires pressure on the loop constantly until it is sufficiently closed to capture an animal.  I believe that fox will feel this pressure before the snare is sufficiently closed and backs up and stick its front legs into the loop and thus is hip snared.  On a loaded snare once enough pressure is exerted on the loop it closes on its own.  And it closes fast and closes relatively tight.  If a foxes head is in the loop when it goes off it is over no chance whatsoever to back up.

Now Wacky I think that with a cam lock it maybe isnt as beneficial to load a snare than with most other locks.  A cam lock is heavier and pretty smooth and once it goes and does its job this is probably why that it isnt any faster to load them.   The only real benefit that I can see is a rounder loop and I like a round loop over a teardrop loop.  With locks loading really shines on the smaller ones.  I use mainly BMI mini locks, bullet locks and mostly the slim locks.  These smaller locks require constant pressure to close the loop on a normal snare thus more hip catches or maybe even backouts and then refusal.

Now I can not comment on the differenty types of cable if you mean 7x7 versus 1x19 because I use only 7x7 no particular reason why although I believe that is easier to load 1x19.  As far as different cable sizes I use a 16d nail for 5/64 and for 3/32 I use a 1/4 inch rod.  I like a bigger rod for the 3/32 because I use it primarily for beaver and make a bigger loop.  It seems easier to make a bigger loop with a bigger rod than a smaller one though I can do it as well with a nail but I have be a bit more careful not to load it too much.

I think that the most important thing in loading snares is the quality of the cable.  Some of the cable that you can buy is so limp that it is almost impossible to load it.  Dont just buy the cheapest buy the best.  Also the best doesnt cost anymore to purchase.  I will personally vouch for the 3/32 cable that Tom carries I have used it with good results.  The 5/64 that I use I bought from Rally Hess.  Not saying that Toms 5/64 is no good or that Rally's 3/32 isnt either it is just who I happened to buy these particular sizes from so that is who I will recommend.

One more tip for a beginner of snare loading.  Do it one at a time and do it slow.  When you first start out you are going to wreck some cable I know I did.  I wish I could have all that cable back.

[Rob220swift]

I just came out of the garage after following the various methods of preloading mentioned in this post.  I first practiced on cable that I was making into adjustable tie-downs for my 330's.  I used a 1/4 inch piece of rod left over from laminating traps.  Worked fine.  Next time I will do it before I put on the deer stops.   I also spent some time chopping my frozen coon bait (the artist formerly known as Crappie) into small chunks that I store in used margarine tubs.  I use the fish in 160 box cubbies with a little fish oil or coon lure and it works well for me.  I truly can't stand waiting until October 15th the Michigan opener.  It's worse than waiting for Christmas when I was a kid.

[Newt]

Bogmaster is a bad shot.He tryed 6 times to shoot me with his loaded snares,and missed each time :-)  
 How Y'all doin out th'here in Graybeard land ?