browning a Thompson Center ML barrel

[moose]

my brother picked me up a un-finished Thompson Center ML 54 cal. at a yard sale. The trigger and locks were blued from factory. The barrel and stock is unfinished. But hey---what do you expect for 17 bucks .........i am going to final sand the WALNUT stock . And coat with boiled linseed . I want to do the brown the barrel. saw some info on the web............ Laurel Mountain Forge Browning Solution seems to be a good choice anyone used it? and a good place to buy it............THANKS

[MSP Ret]

Great find Will!!! I have a .54 TC Renegade and it is a fine gun. What a deal!!!....<><.... 

[Keith L]

I used Birchwood Casey browning solution, but I think they will all work.  Follow the directions carefully and keep browning and then "carding" until you get the finish you like.  It took mine a few coats to start looking good.  Don't loose hope and keep going until it is what you want.

[Bitterroot Bob]

Howdy,
Laurel Mountain is good stuff. Prepping of the metal is the most important part of the browning process. Firsst wrap some 400 grit sandpaper around a flat file and draw polish the flats to remove any scratches. You want a matte finish, not a shiny one, but it should be smooth.
Next, be certain that the metal has been thoroughly degreased. Use the hottest water that you can stand and dish soap. Scrub the hell out of the surface. Really! You'd be amazed at how much oil steel can absorb.
Once you've prepped the metal, apply the solution and let it work. Once you're done heat the barrel and apply Johnson's Paste Wax and wipe off the excess. That will preserve the finish and stop the rusting.

Good luck with it,
Bitterroot

[moose]

Thanks for the info Guys, looks like i will be ordering some supplies in the next day or so. Which FINISH do you like for the walnut stock, TRUE Oil, linseed or tung oil, any suggestions...............THANKS

[gunnut69]

I've used everything you mentioned and all work to a degree.. The boiled linseed oil, really just thinned and has driers added will never trully harden. It will always soften when hot and will get sticky when handled with sweaty hands.. I use TruOil on modern guns and some older ones but it just looks too shiney..even steel wooled to a mat finish it is somehow lacking.. Tung works really well but gives a finish similar to TruOil but a bit harder and more prone to cracking. The best I've found is a stuff called OKEENE. It is a blend of the three main finishing oils and pine oil... It absorbs almost completely into the wood and almost refuses to build up on the surface. The wood will get to the point where water will bead but it will just look like polished wood..no finished appearance. Wax lightly to provide water resistance and It's my choice.. I use it also for military style finishes..and remember to finish the inside too to keep the wood from swelling.. Also a hot ramod and a patch in a loop or a wop and wax thoroughly the ramrod hole in the stock.. I pulled a few that were swollen tight.

[moose]

I've used everything you mentioned and all work to a degree.. The boiled linseed oil, really just thinned and has driers added will never trully harden. It will always soften when hot and will get sticky when handled with sweaty hands.. I use TruOil on modern guns and some older ones but it just looks too shiney..even steel wooled to a mat finish it is somehow lacking.. Tung works really well but gives a finish similar to TruOil but a bit harder and more prone to cracking. The best I've found is a stuff called OKEENE. It is a blend of the three main finishing oils and pine oil... It absorbs almost completely into the wood and almost refuses to build up on the surface. The wood will get to the point where water will bead but it will just look like polished wood..no finished appearance. Wax lightly to provide water resistance and It's my choice.. I use it also for military style finishes..and remember to finish the inside too to keep the wood from swelling.. Also a hot ramod and a patch in a loop or a wop and wax thoroughly the ramrod hole in the stock.. I pulled a few that were swollen tight.

GREAT INFO-----Thanks, i appreciate it.

[Swampman]

Laurel Mountain Forge makes great wood stains & browning solutions.  Track of the Wolf carries all that stuff.  Minwax Satin Tung Oil Finish works great, and is very easy to use.

[Bitterroot Bob]

For wood, I'm a Brownell's Lin-Speed man. It gives me the natural hand-rubbed oil finish that everyone desires, without the heartbreak of gummy wood. Also. If you plan on using a hickory ramrod, drop the rod into a section of PVC and drown it in linseed oil. Let it set for a week or so and let it absorb as much as it wants. It will keep the stick from breaking.

Bitterroot

[moose]

For wood, I'm a Brownell's Lin-Speed man. It gives me the natural hand-rubbed oil finish that everyone desires, without the heartbreak of gummy wood. Also. If you plan on using a hickory ramrod, drop the rod into a section of PVC and drown it in linseed oil. Let it set for a week or so and let it absorb as much as it wants. It will keep the stick from breaking.

Bitterroot

got the ramrod soaking in boiled linseed oil, i will get it out of the tube of linseed oil in 7 more days, thanks for the tip.

[moose]

pulled the ramrod out of the linseed oil Today, 10 days in it, it looks great.. Bitterroot Bob
thanks for the tip.....

[Lost Oki]

What type of final finish are you looking for ?
1. Oil finish but pores is wood are not filled ?
2.  Oil satin finish that fills the pores?
Personally, the last two stocks I refinished (one was my TC 54 hawken)
I used Watco Teak Oil finish from Lowes.   
Prep the wood with final sanding with 400 grit.
I brushed on as much oil as the wood will absorb, let it dry for 4 days
then I started sanding (with block behind sand paper) each coat. Used 400 grit wet a dry for
the first 3 coats, then 600 for the next 3 then 800grit for the last two.  Waited 4-6 days between
each coat (depends on temp and humidity).  Then I let it set for 30 days before I put paste wax on it.
Teak oil takes longer to dry than other oil finishes I have used, but it was well worth the trouble.
Have also used Formby's Tung oil finish and hand rubbed it in the same way.  Only issue is there are
not UV protectors in it but it drys faster and makes a tough finish.
Again, don't forget to oil ALL bare wood areas,
You are going like the 54.  Killed my buff 3 yrs ago, 80 yrds with round ball with pass thru for
both shots. 

[gunnut69]

Must have missed the ramrod piece.. I used to burn the ramrod in a spiral pattern using tape to hide the wood not to be singied and a propane torch to apply the color. There is a name gor the technique but again CRS has attacked.. In any case we then soaked the ramrod in coaloil(kerosene). This process will completely saturate the wood and the coaloil acted as a lubricant for the wood fibers. If the rod was split from the hickory before working it would bend into a circle if not of too large a diameter say a 36-40 caliber rod..