Author Topic: 10/22 sights (Read 800 times)

tomg · « **on:** September 29, 2003, 12:49:20 PM »

How do you install new sights on to a Ruger 10/22 that has wedge sights both front and rear (Original sights that came with the gun)? And if there are any tools needed, please tell me where I can get them. Thanks.

savageT · « **Reply #1 on:** September 29, 2003, 01:44:31 PM »

Those Ruger factory sights can be removed from the dove-tail slots with a brass drift pin....from left to right as you hold the gun in shooting position.
Do you have something in mind for replacing the originals, like scoping it or something else? Normally, you don't need to remove the sights to put a scope on.

Jim

tomg · « **Reply #2 on:** September 29, 2003, 01:51:05 PM »

I want to replace the original sights with Williams Fire Sights. Do you know where I can get a brass drift pin and how much would it costs? Also will the brass drift pin work on the rear sights as well?

savageT · « **Reply #3 on:** September 29, 2003, 02:14:07 PM »

tomg,
I bought a set of "Drift" pin punches from "Cheaper Than Dirt", I believe. You can probably find a set of drift pin punches at any hardware or Home Improvement store. The reason for using a brass pin punch is so you don't mark up the bluing on the sight. If nothing else, you could just use a brass machine screw (about a #8 or 10x 2 1/2 ") as a drift pin and tap them out with a small hammer. The rear sight slot I believe is the same size as the front sight dove-tail slot. It really shouldn't be a problem driving them out. You can call Cheaper Than Dirt and ask about a free catalog...they have alot of neat surplus stuff and ammunition too!

Cheaper Than Dirt!
2524 NE Loop 820
Fort Worth TX, 76106-1809
1-800-559-0943
www.CheaperThanDirt.com

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 29, 2003, 07:23:38 PM »

If you hold the barrel in a vise with padded jaws(to avoid finish damage) it is much easier to drive those sights out. Hold the barrel in the vise with the sight being removed as close as possible to the vise jaws. A bit of brass welding rod will provide the needed punch. Be cautious when using a brass screw, most are just brass PLATED steel.. Use solid brass only... A bit of anti-sieze will make installation easier. If none is availoable any high pressure lube will work(Choke tube lube, STP oil treatment, sizing die lube,etc.), a little bit'l do ya.. Those firber optic sights may be made from aluminum so be extra careful to avoid finish damage.. I have a set clamped to the rib on my Browning 10 GA. turkey shooter...really are a help..

Mikey · « **Reply #5 on:** September 30, 2003, 03:50:36 AM »

tomg: I've busted a couple of sight bases removing sights with drift punches but since the sights on that 10/22 are just drifted into the slots in the bb; you shouldn't have any problem. As the gunnut says, make certain you put your bbl in a padded vice. If you are ever going to go beyond the 10/22 and wind up with a rifle with sight bases and want to change the sights, I would suggest a screw type sight blade remover, it puts less stress on the sight base and bbl. M2C. Mikey.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 30, 2003, 08:22:18 AM »

What Mikey is talking about is sights which use a ramp. under the front blade. The sights on the 10-22 are dovetailed directly into the barrel.. I have a die that fits in an arbor press. It hold the barrel and has a slot that allows the sight to fall free of it's dovetail. Most won't have an arbor press and for the few sights the average person deals with a punch, carefully applied, works just fine.. When removing a sight from a ramp Mikey was right a press is the best way.. A local 'smith should be able to do this and for very little. Good luck from the gunnut69