HULL TYPE NECESSARY FOR 28 GA SLUG RELOADING

[kody]

   I want to be able to produce a very limited number of 28 ga. slugs. They aren't available commercially unless you're willing to go with BPI's  .505 round ball. I want to try something else. 28 ga. high brass is not easy to come by. Are ANY low brass worthy of this use? At what point does one need to switch from low brass to high brass? Ken

[Graybeard]

High brass and low brass really have nothing to do with hull strength or use to a reloader. They are mostly just an old hangover from the days when high brass meant more shot and low brass less. ACTIV ended that debate long years ago but removing all the brass and using a thin disk moulded into the head as a rim and the entire rest of hull was plastic with no base or brass at all.

If you could find a roll crimped hull I think it would work best but short that I think a new hull never loaded crimped might be best as it has no crimp memory or weakened case mouth. That assumes of course that you are going to try to roll crimp the slug in place as factories do. If not and you are gonna do a fold crimp ignore that.

I have 500 or so new RP 28 ga hulls that were never loaded I bought a few years back when I couldn't find any once fired ones. I wound up buying several cases of loaded ammo so never used the new hulls. They are in storage somewhere around here.

[kody]

  Thank you Bill for that answer. Now I'm going to call BPI and as them about loading the Fiocchi hulls that I got from them that happened to be neither high OR low brass and created the question that I raised. I want to build a slug along the lines of a Brenneke with a gas seal in back ,whatever the amount necessry of fibre wads to fill the gap up to a .54 cal cast lead bullet. I intend to experiment with the length /weight of the bullet as well as the wads to get at least a 3/4 oz. projectile that will roll-crimp in the 2 3/4"  shells.   Ken