Chipped Stock Edge (Pics)-Repair Advice?

[smoky]

OK Guys,

Got the Model 7 stock back from Limbsaver.  Wonderful job on the recoil pad installation.  However, in shipment back, the stock has become chipped.  Usability wise, I don't think it will affect anything, however I would like to fix it if possible.  Please take a look at the picture and tell me how to proceed.

Thanks,

Smoky

[trotterlg]

I think just plain white elmers glue will get the job done and I bet you will not be able to see the fix when it is all finished.  Larry

[gunnut69]

Larrys likely right but I like over kill.. If it were mine to fix and I have done more than a few, I'd use epoxy. Can't remember the brand just now, CRS I guess but it comes is a twinned tube that dispenses both components at the same time and same amounts. There are several varietys but the '5-ton' (slow set)is the best. The fast cure is not as good at bonding and the white stuff said to be for wood is much more visible after the fact. I would drill a couple of holes in both the base and the piece broken off. They should be large enough to easily accept a small wooden pin to help stabilize the break and facilitate reassembly of the broken parts and reinforcement pins. This assembly is dry fitted and clamped prior to application of any glue. It must fit perfectly or it will certainly be visible. Dont stain the epoxy. Once the dry fit is perfect apply glue thoroughly mixed to the holes on both parts. Don't worry if the holes are too large for the pins, the epoxy will fill the holes. The pins are also coated (the holes should be full so that insertion of the pins pushes out as much air as possible). The flats are the last to be coated. Clamping is a chore and is why we practice when doing the dry fit.. Surgical tubing is your best bet but hand activated fast clamps are also useful.  Don't over clamp the pieces just tighten until the crack is fully closed. Remember this must align vertically as well as be flush. A clamp isolated from the epoxy with a bit of wax paper can be sued to clamp the verticle surfaces so they will be completely flush when cured. If refinishing the excess is irrelavent but if finish is an issue mask the entire surface of the stock before gluing as the epoxy is poison to any finish..and you WILL get it on your hands and you WILL touch the finish somewhere and it WILL show up!!!! That's experience talking. Use tape to cover the surface and all will be well. If fixing a finished stock the masking tape is applied to the stock as close to the crack as possible. The the damage done by the excess squeezed out will be just a 1/16 inch or so strip, easily fixed. Done this way it will not show and will be less likely to fail later as the holes become re-enforcement for the obviously weak grain flow.. The epoxy I use is readily available a WalMart, but the name still escapes me.

[Bitterroot Bob]

Gee,
It doesn't look like a very big piece. I would go with Elmer's, too. Since the wood isn't in a position to have any of the action, or you, touch it during recoil, it's mostly a cosmetic fix. Have rubber bands ready to slip over the piece once you've applied the glue and let 'er set. The trick will be cutting away the excess. A thin coat of Birchwood Casey True-Oil will blend the crack.
I recently repaired a chip where the stock heel met the butt-plate on a Remington 141. I used Elmer's, too. I held my breath while I fired five 200-grain .35 Rem's. It held!

Bitterroot