Bulge-barrel O/U Repair?

[jcn59]

A bulge in the upper barrel 3" from muzzle between the rib and bottom barrel.   

Can I fix it by fitting a mandrel, taping the barrel to protect the finish, then hammer (gently tap) the bulge out with a plastic or brass hammer.  Steel ball peen hammer??

Is there a better way?  I guess if it didn't work I could shorten the barrels & have a grouse gun, huh?

What have you tried that works....or doesn't?

Thanks!

[Rangr44]

Too bad, it wasn't just a small inward dent.

On the other hand - I hope you'll enjoy your new, short-barreled  grouse gun.

.

[trotterlg]

That one is dead, move on, good excuse to buy a new gun.  A buldged barrel is hosed, something bad happened in it and it cannot be (properly) fixed.  Larry

[jcn59]

I bought it that way: Winchester 101.  Cheap, cheap.  (Yes I know cheep, cheep sounds like a grouse:).  It was calling out to me.   

I figure worst case senario is another grouse gun~most of my hunting is grouse and game farm pheasants anyways.  For waterfowl one of those ugly Ben. Novas.

I just wondered if there were any problems with either shortening the barrels or leveling the bulge that I hadn't anticipated.

I shortened a double barrel years ago.  Wasn't much to it after I cut & squared the muzzle, filed & emery papered the saw marks smooth then leaded up the rib area.

Internet purchase, should get it in a week.

[gunnut69]

they're likely right, it's toast but if the barrels are not seperated and depending on their method of joining and the severity of the bulge-- it may work out OK. A small bulge that doesn't displace the rib or affect the alignment of the other barrel may be fixable. I'm not a shotgun barrel mechanic but have fixed a few. Not double guns though. You will need a mandrel inside the bore to support the tube. It needs to fit the bore pretty tightly(lathe turned). The anvil will be endgrain oak or some other very hard wood, I use a piece of sycamore..almost impossible to split. The groove was drilled and sawed in two pieces to create. This holds the barrel in place and helps straighten.. Proper application of the blows is essentail so I prefer a punch, properly hardened and with a highly polished flattened end.. Or more likely give a call to Mike Orlen who is a barrel mechanic.  Phone-(413)256-1630 and ask if he thinks it possible. He's located in Amherst, MA 01002 at 79 Salem St. and is one of the best there is and very reasonable.. I haven't been in contact for a while so give him my best..

Jerry

[jcn59]

I was thinking I'd make a steel mandrel.  Should I use wood?

I even thought about putting a mandrel in both barrels and boring a barrel size hole in a block of aluminum, splitting the block, and using half on one side of the top  barrel and half on the other side then provide pressure on the apparatus with a hydraulic press to remove the bulge. 

I can't possibly be the only one ever to try to fix a bulged barrel O/U can I?

Thanks for your ideas, though.  It has encouraged me to think harder about the project

[trotterlg]

Most likely the damage is done, even if you put it back to where it was, the steel structure is damaged in that spot and will likely fail at some point in it's life.  Even that would not be life threatning, just an anoynance if the barrel blew out.  If I were to try a fix, I would turn a piece of steel that just fit the inside part of the barrel except where the bludge is, put it in the barrel and then drive the buldge back in place over it using a nice heavy brass or lead hammer.  When you are doing these things it is best to move the metal as much as you can with the fewest blows, each blow works the steel, so I would put the mandrel in and beat down the lump with few good firm blows.  Larry

[gunnut69]

The turn tightly turned mandrel is a the correct method but I prefer polished steel punches. It allows greater control of the blows and the polished surface will allow the metal to move yet not create dents or peening marks.. The mandrel is to support the barrel and stop the movement of the steel at the correct internal diameter, the problem is the as the barrel bulged it also bent. I've M97 Winchester that was nearly new and the reason was a terrible bulge that made the barrel point so as to shoot extremely high.  The problem with an O/U is that bottom barrel. It too must be supported and the entore barrel set not allowed to move from the blow. A punch shaped like a saddle with the edges slightly rounded and all surfaces polished is where I'd go. The wood block is used to support the barrel(s) in the vice while the blows are delivered. Also I would move the steel fairly slowly. The problem with really heavy blows is that control gets lost and control is imperitive.. It not likely to work but if it doesn't it may still be possible to shorten and install sleeves or screw in choke tubes..

[bill439]

Don't waste your time on the bulge.  Send the bbls to a pro or choke installer who can handle this repair.  Have the bbls cut and install screw in chokes.  That should solve your problems.  Best of luck, Bill439

[SHOOTALL]

Briley would be a good one to check with . The side rib would be a problem .

[jcn59]

Got the shotgun today.  Probably a tad better than I expected.   Still tight at the hinge & lockup.  I fitted a mandrel & made a large belled brass punch & tapped the bulge out.  Mostly.   The more I looked at it the less I liked it. 

Next I put it on the saw & shortened the barrels to 26".   I can't see dumping another $400. for the Briley chokes and installation.  I bought it for grouse hunting in the first place so I'll try it & see what I think of it.  I need all the pattern I can get.

Thanks for all the advice.  You all were right.