Beginner: Calibrating lock-n-load dies for 454 Casull

[benny123]

I am a first time reloader and am unsure about calibrating the Hornady Lock-n-Load for the 454 Casull. Their are 4 dies in this kit and am feeling confident with the decapping die only.

In respect to the expansion die, I can't tell how much of a flare there should be on the brass. When pressing brass (once-fired) through, the opening was wider but not such that the bullet could be flush with the cannelure. It wasn't placed uniform either--the Hornady XTP bullet looked kinda cockeyed set in. i measured ~2.5mm of inserted depth on the bullet. As I saw no point in adding powder at this point, I continued with the other two dies.

The seating die did depress the bullet further in the casing but per the Freedom Arms loading chart the total cartridge length was too short (about 2mm short of the 1.765" length FA specifies) The cannelure could not be seen so I am thinking it was right under the rim of the brass.

I folllowed up with the crimp die. After pulling I could not see any crimp. Though I was planning on using HS6, under the maximum, some of the material I read indicated a crimp is necessary for proper ignition and to avoiding "jumping crimp" . Though I don't know exactly what that means I am thinking it has to do with a bullet prematurely entering the barrel before all the powder has ignited.

Anyone know if there are length standards for these dies--or for that matter dies of any caliber? I spent several hours this afternoon cleaning brass ,depriming, and loading with new magnum primers but was unable to complete the other stages. At this point, I can honestly say I have mastered their hand priming tool--that's it.

Anyone have suggestions with calibrating these dies or perhaps photo's? I don't want to go at it with a trial and error method. Figured better to consult some of GBO's finest   

[Tom W.]

With the expansion die, you only want to flare the mouth just barely enough to get the bullet to fit into it.

The seating die should be adjusted a little at a time until you get the COL that you are looking for. After you get a bullet in the case and the die somewhat adjusted as per the instructions, back off of the seating stem a lot and raise your case all the way as if you are going to seat a bullet. The bullet won't be seated, so turn the seating stem down a bit and try until you get a good COL. When you're happy with what you have, loosen the seating stem a bit and turn your whole die down about 1/4 of a turn to check your crimp. If yo have a satisfactory crimp, tighten your die lock ring and raise your cartridge back into the die, and turn your seating stem back down until you feel it touch your bullet, then lock it down.  My dies for the .454 are RCBS, a three die set, so the roll crimp is applied when I seat the bullet.


There will be others a bit more eloquent than I that will chime in, I'm sure....

[Lloyd Smale]

like was said you dont want your flare die to open the mouth up any more then just enough to allow the bullet to enter the case without shaving lead. Just enough where you can barely feel a small bell is usually enough. if you go to the extreems your trying to do you will loose all your case tension and be relying solely on crimp to hold your bullet in the case and you will never get great accuracy like that.

[benny123]

thanks for the replies. I will try again on Wednesday

[mdi]

Sounds like you may be in need of a reloading manual. I wouls suggest the ABCs of Reloading, Lymans 49th Edition Reloading Handbook, and/or Lee Modern Reloading. These have "how to" sections that explain reloading step by step. Die adjustment is an important lesson for the new reloader.

[BigJakeJ1s]

The fourth (crimp) die in the Hornady 454 die set is a taper crimp die. If you are loading bullets that have a cannelure, you should crimp with the seating die, which is a roll crimp. I use this die set for 45 colt, and it works great, but I've never used the taper crimp die. I seat and roll crimp in one step.

You can crimp in the same step while seating, or you can crimp in a separate step after seating by readjusting your seating die.

If you want to seat and crimp in one step (fairly easy to do with roll crimp), follow the die's instructions.

As far as overall length, when roll crimping into a cannelure, you need to adjust the seating depth so that the top of the case ends up in the middle of the cannelure, then make sure it is at least close to the OAL from your reference load.

There is a fairly easy trick with Hornady seating dies to allow separate seating and crimping with the same die, without having to readjust the die each time.

If you want to roll crimp separately, you can set your die up to crimp, by first removing the seating stem. If you pull the spring clip off the bottom of the die, the alignment sleeve and seating plug will fall out the bottom. Remove the plug, but put the alignment sleeve (which has the crimp ring) back in and reinstall the spring clip.

Now adjust your die to roll crimp a cartridge that already has a bullet seated to proper depth. Set the die's lock ring in place and tighten it.

Now get a washer that will fit on the die under the lock ring. Re-install the seating plug in the die, and, with the washer in place under the lock ring, install the die in the press. Adjust your seating stem downward until it contacts the top of a properly seated bullet. Tighten the friction nut on the seating stem.

When you want to seat only, just make sure the washer is in place under the lock ring, or you will seat the bullet too deep (by the thickness of the washer).

When you then want to crimp, remove the plug from the die, take the washer off the die, and it will crimp without touching the bullet.

Andy

[benny123]

handloaded 40 rounds--successfully. 17.0 grains of HS6, 240gr. Hornady, Remington Mag primers.

Thanks!