Author Topic: What works best?? (Read 834 times)

Spanky · « **on:** September 07, 2009, 06:55:08 AM »

I removed the bed from my 1997 Ford Ranger to run new emergencey brake cables and gas tank straps and the frame has some scaly rust on it. I scraped and brushed the rust off and want to coat it with something. should I just use paint or undercoating or what. My buddy says to get some POR because it it made to protect it from further rusting. I've never used it and don't know anything about it. Anybody got any tips??

Spanky

DalesCarpentry · « **Reply #1 on:** September 07, 2009, 05:15:17 PM »

I will be following this thead because my truck does not have any rust on it but the frame does. I would love to stop it where it is now. Dale

Spanky · « **Reply #2 on:** September 08, 2009, 10:29:06 AM »

Same thing with mine Dale.
The body on my Ranger doesn't have any rust either... just on the frame.

Spanky

squirrellluck · « **Reply #3 on:** September 08, 2009, 03:42:28 PM »

Last time I did an undercoat I used 1/2 diesel 1/2 roofing tar. Hardens up nicely when dry. Dont know why. My brother redid a 63 chevy step side and he used bed liner you can buy at walmart If you seal the air out it should stop the rust.

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #4 on:** September 09, 2009, 12:06:02 AM »

if your going to use undercoating you need to remove the rust first or at least neutralize it with something like por or you will just trap it under the undercoating and it can even cause more damage then if left to the air.

gypsyman · « **Reply #5 on:** September 09, 2009, 01:44:04 PM »

A lot of work, but I usually used a wire wheel, if I could get to where it was rusted. Then I put the coating on. Learned to use a mask real quick. gypsyman

gp911 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 10, 2009, 05:10:56 PM »

Por-15 is popular with the guys on the Studebaker forum, and some of those seem to have come with factory-installed rust!

Before any closeted Stude nuts step up and tell me I need to stop slandering them I know the difference between a c-cab and a Commander, between a hog-trough and a conestoga, between a Champion six and a "big six", between... Anyway, you see I like Studes, I just know rust is a problem.

gp911

red364 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 14, 2009, 08:50:33 AM »

Permatex has a rust treatment in a rattle can. It works pretty good, just spray it on and it converts it to a smooth black paintable surface.
I used it on my old El Camino and it's good stuff!

Graybeard · « **Reply #8 on:** September 14, 2009, 10:48:33 AM »

Quote from: gp911 on September 10, 2009, 05:10:56 PM

Por-15 is popular with the guys on the Studebaker forum, and some of those seem to have come with factory-installed rust!

Before any closeted Stude nuts step up and tell me I need to stop slandering them I know the difference between a c-cab and a Commander, between a hog-trough and a conestoga, between a Champion six and a "big six", between... Anyway, you see I like Studes, I just know rust is a problem.

gp911

My first car was a '66 Studebaker. Darn few cars before or since were as sleek and arodynamic as that car. When the trans failed and no easy source for fixing it was available I traded it off. I'd love to have that old Studebaker back.

gp911 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 19, 2009, 05:28:52 PM »

That '66 was from the final year, when they were using Chevy (*cough* MacKinnon!) V8s instead of their 259/289s... Someday I'll get an old Stude... Yep, someday... It's amazing how much support a Stude owner can find nowadays, and there are still lots of NOS parts left at SARCO. I guess when they closed the factory doors a group of the Stude Faithful bought up all the remaining parts inventory and created SARCO to keep the cars on the road, and here we are 43 years later, still able to pick up some factory parts!

Did I mention I still want one?

gp911