to hang or not to hang that is the question

[TRM-1]

I have a G2 rifle with 22lr,222rem,30-30win, and 50 cal muzzleloader barrels. The barrels are either 23 or 24 inches long. the frame and barrels are stainless and currently I have the factory synthetic buttstock and forearm on the gun and I was getting erratic groups with the gun and I put some of that metallic tape like you use on hvac systems to space the forearm out some to free float the barrel. I have not opened up the barrel channel any and I have a slight touch on the left side closer to the frame I also sanded the ears so they didn't touch the frame. But what little I have shot it since it seems to have helped it. I also have a factory wood buttstock and forearm for it. My question is about the hanger bar systems are they worth it? I would like to go with a custom thumbhole stock and forearm later and If I do I would like to figure that in from the start instead of going back and doing it later. So would you recommend the hanger bar or pillar bedding the forearm? What results have you seen with your guns? Thanks a lot for reading my post and any remarks you have.

[Ladobe]

... My question is about the hanger bar systems are they worth it? ...

There are hundreds of thousands of custom barrels wearing hanger bars (not to mention the countless factory barrels), so I think we can safely say that is a yes.   

I've use them on every facory or custom, pistol or carbine barrel (and forend) I've owned for decades.

[David D.]

Well you ask for opinions and this mine. I have forearms on H-Bars, pillar blocks, spacers between the forearm and barrel, standard mounting, and have bedded forearms. I have found no difference in accuracy between any of these than just using a good fitting forearm.

By a good fitting forearm I mean one that the channel is cut in way its not putting undue pressure on the barrel. Also not over tightened. I also like to make sure where the ears over lap the frame after installation there is no rub on the frame. You can check this by making sure a piece of paper will slide between the frame and forearm after installing the forearm. I check this no matter the mounting method.

[TRM-1]

I did have to sand the ears as I stated in the first post so they didn't rub the frame. I guess the hanger bar would make it easier to change barrels and be certain the forearm is free floating. Like I said I would like to go with a thumbhole stock (wish I could get a synthetic one made similar to the factory encore thumbhole) probably would go with a walnut one from gunstock inc with a matching new forearm which I would probably use with a hanger bar. I guess for now I will try to open up the forearm some by sanding out the barrel channel and may even try to use pillar blocks. If I go with the pillar blocks is it better to let the blocks contact the tophat mounts of the barrel or should the blocks contact the barrel itself and straddle the mounts? Thanks again for your suggestions and thoughts on this subject. 

[SD Handgunner]

Like I said I would like to go with a thumbhole stock (wish I could get a synthetic one made similar to the factory encore thumbhole)

Actually On Target Technologies makes a product called a Grip Chip. It is a spacer of sorts that allows you to use any Encore Grip or Buttstock on your G2 Contender Frame. I put a G2 Contender Rifle in .223 Remington together a couple years back using a Synthetic Encore Buttstock with the On Target Technologies Grip Chip.



I thought I had a photo of the parts but was unable to find it. I used the standard G2 Contender Synthetic Rifle Forend that I sanded out and glued steel washers in the bottom of the recesses where the forend attachment screws go through to the barrel to help space the forend off of the barrel.

Larry

[Keith L]

Hanger bars are slick, and I do have some on a few of my Contenders.  All the rest I made spacers out of old shotgun shells to space the forend a little off of the barrel, and they work fine too.  And I have some that I have done nothing with and they work well also.  Half the fun of these guns is getting to fiddle with them to get them the way we like them.  Have some fun with yours!

[TRM-1]

I have tried to slide my prohunter flexteck thumbhole onto mine to get a idea of how it would feel as I have read about the grip chips before and I thought it felt a bit bulky which it could have been the flex tec which could be a little heavier than the regular encore thumbhole. Which in the picture you have it looks like it grew there and looks factory. I haven't had a chance to fool with it anymore in the last few days, But hope to play with trying to gain some clearence around the barrel this weekend, Again thanks to all that have responded to this post I would like to see all the options I have.

[southernutah]

TRM-1     If you havn't tried a thumbhole stock try one before you buy it. I had one and traded it off. Looked cool but made it trouble some to get to the scope caps and hammer in a hurry. If you have all day to pull your finger out of the hole , open scope covers, cock hammer and then get your thumb back in the hole to fire go for it. I'll be done shooting before you get the hammer back. It doesn't hold the same if you are used to the regular buttstock, but it does look neet............

[TRM-1]

My encore pro hunter has the camo thumbhole flextec buttstock and I don't have any problem cocking it and I wouldn't trade it for nothin'. Absoultely love it that is a big part of why I want one on the G2  and I have owned two other encores with the regular walnut (non Thumbhole) stocks and was happy with them but I like the thumbhole better.

[LaOtto222]

I have an older model Contender. I have a laminated fore end and stock. I was having trouble with accuracy with a bull 23" 221 Fireball. I was getting 1 1/2" groups at 100 yards with it. I sanded the ears back so they do not touch the frame, opened up the barrel channel and glued in washers where the fore end screws go on the barrel side. The only place the foreend touches the barrel or frame is the washers that the mounting screws go through. Now I get 1/2" groups some times and under 3/4" all the time. It is simple, easy and cheap.