S&W 27 with a stuck bullet jacket

[shotgunner]

Yesterday I bought a like new S&W model 27-6. I fired one shot from it and it was tied up. I appears that the jacket from a 125 grain hollowpoint is stuck in the forcing cone and will not allow the cylinder to rotate. Questions, does the gun have a bad forcing cone? How do I get the jacket out, of cource the other 5 loaded rounds are still chambered. I have been collecting and shooting handguns for many years, I have shot many thousands of rounds through them and never had anything like this. The ammo was handloaded, a 125 grain speer jhp and a close to max load of 296. This load has been fine in my other 357s. I think I may have a lemon, perhaps thats why I got it for  $250. Shotgunner

[S.B.]

Number one: sounds like you need more powder in the cases.
Number two: carefully drive the jacket back into the cylinder with a piece of dowel rod and a plastic hammer. Better yet, take it to a qualified gunsmith and let him cure your ills.

[jhm]

Shotgunner :  I would say thr S&W27 is ok I would look at the ammo, If the 125 gr bullet couldnt get past the forcing cone it has a problem, If not a handyman on handguns (Gunsmith) type I would suggest taking it to someone whe is since its loaded, are you sure the bullet didnt exit the barrel and the other 5 have jumped forward due to recoil and locked the cylender up?  Let us know what the outcome is and be safe.    JIM

[S.B.]

Is there any chance that the powder in the loads may have deteriorated over time? Causing a lower than usual velocity or possibly causing the powder not to fully burn? I've had 296 go bad in the canister before, but only on one canister the rest of the stuff I've had worked great. I don't think that any .357 load at near max velocity would leave anything in the barrel. Did the bang seem less than normal, when it went off? How and on what was the load concocted, what type of press and could there be any chance that the powder charge was less than intended(powder bar sticking)? JMH's suggestion is a good place to look also.

[bfoster]

If the powder was stored in a cool and dry place it is very unlikely that it has gone bad: all U.S. produced smokeless powders made within the last 65 years or so have been well stabilized.

296 does require excellent ignition. While it is difficult to "kill" a currently made primer, various oils will do the trick. Often what happens when primer problems occur is that you'll end up with a squib load.

Bob

[Joel W.]

Are you sure it is just the jacket and not the entire bullet?  Did the load "feel" right, or do you think maybe that you skipped the powder on that particular case.  I have done that myself before.  Those small magnum primers will drive that bullet out just far enough to tie things up.  I recommend a wooden dowel rod and some gentle taps with a hammer.  If that doesn't drive the obstruction back into the cylinder enough to open it, then I would take it to the hospital.

[shotgunner]

Looks like it is not a jacket but part of a case. I fired 6 of the remaining rounds from the box, one at a time, in a 686. One of them was partially seperated. They were from an older box of S&W brass, only loaded once or twice. I was sure thaat it was something else because I have never had a case move forward like this before. I turned a 3/8 dowel down to .360 and tapped it down the bore. It does not push the case out. Perhaps a piece of brass. Thanks for the input, I will let you guys know how it turns out, Shotgunner

[THall]

Sell me the gun! I have never heard or see it. I have fired 1000's of  rounds  in the 27-6. Some 357 hot to 38 targets punys. All went out the right end. I think that the powder was the problem. I try to use heaver bullets myself but I don't thing that is an issue. Stick to bread names.  Good luck.

[shotgunner]

I removed the stuck case, it was about 1/2 long and had gone as far as the forcing cone. This is a first for me, I shoot a couple of older 27s and a lot of others, I have 40 handguns at last count. This one is no worse for wear, still in 99% condition. I will probably trade it. It is very accurate with Federal factory 357s. I did throw away the rest of the box of reloads, funny that it was the first round fired. Shotgunner

[jhm]

If it was the 1st round fired out of the box that should narrow it down to the ammo, the model 27 is one of the finest revolvers out there I would look at the forcing cone or have it looked at by a gunsmith to make sure everything is OK but if in the shape stated would enjoy it along with the others,      JIM

[shotgunner]

I grew up reading Skeeter Skelton and had to have a 27. I have a 5 screw 5" gun, it has enough holster wear that I don't mind carrying it. It is very accurate with heavy 357 loads as well as 38 wadcutters. I beat a guy at falling plates with it this summer. He was shooting a $2,000 45 auto. I usually shoot cast swc's and 2400. The problem load I had happened to be 125 jhp's and it was the brass that split. The load was fine, I pulled bullets and checked the powder charge. Brass is so easy to get today that I don't feel I need to keep anything that isn't fairly new. This situation prompted me to clean up the reloading room, I found reloads from more than 10 years ago, some for guns I don't own any longer. I like 44 specials, and 45's. I even have a couple of 1911s and a Python. There is nothing quite like a 27 though, the only gun with a checkered topstrap. I do need to find a nice 8 3/8 one though, Shotgunner