New SAMCC barrel

[Double D]

Terry,

Thanks, I am actually thinking about making a second upper piece to do 1/8" thick  metal as well as .060".   I could also open the hole for the trunnion and make different inserts for different size trunnions. 

This die is to make blanks. No holes and long ends so they can be trimmed and fitted to a specific gun carriage as long as it has 5/8" diameter trunnions.

This project has drug on for several months.  Building this carriage is a learning process for me.  I don't have all the tools to work wood and certainly not the knowledge.  Friend Ernie live 40 miles away and has the tools and Farmers knowledge! 

I am also not one to sit down and do this sort of thing from start finish-to tedious.  I usually have half a dozen or so projects going at once and do them one step at a time. Variety over comes boredom. 

Since I have never done this sort of thing before, or at least right now don't remember doing it before, there is a lot more thought and planning going on.  If a simple answer came to me very quickly, I had too reanalyze it to make sure I wasn't missing  something. 

The upper part of the die for example. To locate the trunnion hole I put the material for the upper in the die body and drilled the lower  locating holes through the die body and through the material to hold it.  After putting pins in to hold the stock, I drilled the trunnion hole by drilling a 5/8" hole through the 5/8" hole in the die body.  Since this piece has to press the metal around the trunnion form, allowance has to be made for the thickness of the metal-.060.    The hole in the upper die needs to be .745.    Since I don't have a mill, I chucked the stock up in my 4 jaw on my lathe and bored the hole out.    The next step is to remove the lower half of the die stock.  Just cutting off the lower half won't work. You have to allow for the  thickness of the arms or tails of the capsquares.    So, the die stock has to be cut .060" below the center line. 

Lots of work, keeps me out of the bars at night...actually haven't been in a bar in years. 

I heard from Irishman the other day and he says each time I post a project update it generates a sale.  So taking my time and stretching this project out has helped him!!!  That's always good!!

[Double D]

The sanding is done!!!  Did say I hate sanding. 

I am going to be using oil based paint for the carriage.  I seem to remember reading somewhare that  is helpful to apply a coat of boiled linseed oil to bare wood before painting with oilbased paint.  Anybody know anything bout this?

For the trucks I am planning to just linseed oil them.  Any thoughts ?

I hate sanding, but it is over.

[Zulu]

DD,
I have used boiled linseed oil many , many times before applying oil based paint.  It makes your project look so good you don't want to paint it.  Wipe it on with a fully saturated rag and then just wipe it off with a dry rag completely.  Wait 24 hours before painting. 
Don't use it with water base paint.
I used it on all the limber chests I have made.  It calls for it in Mordecai's dwawings.
Zulu

[Max Caliber]

I like to warm linseed oil up before using. That thins it out a bit and It will penetrate better. Years ago I used it on gun stocks, hand rubbing in many coats, then I found tung oil. Tung oil is one of the very best wood sealers but I have never used it under paint. Up until the 1960s,they grew tung oil trees and made tung oil here just east of Tallahassee, now I think it comes from South America.

[dan610324]

or china as everything else   

[irishman]

Terry,


Lots of work, keeps me out of the bars at night...actually haven't been in a bar in years. 

I heard from Irishman the other day and he says each time I post a project update it generates a sale.  So taking my time and stretching this project out has helped him!!!  That's always good!!

DD,

Thank You. Your step by step instruction on building a Carriage has been a real "eye opener" for many, many of us. New customers are ordering barrels, knowing how to build most or even all of their carriage. An added measure of pride of ownership.

You have me going. I am learning to make wooden wheels similar to yours to offer for sale and plan to offer other carriage components. (Slowing down the bar time) Some may not want to build every part.

I think that this is good for all of the Blackpowder Mortar and Cannon Forum as well as all of us Sponsers!

Thank you DD for a job well done.

                            Michael

[1Southpaw]

So taking my time and stretching this project out has helped him!!!  That's always good!!
 
 

so it there a prize for stretching it put the longest ? 

Every time you come over I think more of what mine will be when I "Get to it"

As a retired farmer I'm supposed to have more time but alas, it seems to disappear .  Still busy with "farm " things  and old age definitely slows down the "get up and go "   40 years of " I'm gonna get to it" projects are waiting , waiting , waiting
Right now Shop wiring is moving to the front burner.  Have to relocate power lines , transformer pole ,meter loop .Also  replace overhead wires around farm with underground . Up grade the service entry to 200 amp , new disconect for standby generator , new huge breaker pannel , estimate from contractor is 15 to 20,000 $  Ouch . Sold my Peterbilt Semi ,grain Trailer and Tandem truck  . Guess the shop is worth it.  It needs 6 new 220 outlets @ minumum for the equipment  . 7 if I get the potters kiln set up . It's been on hold for 20 years .... rebuild of the potters wheel in order now that lathe is up and running .  I can build new bearing supports , fix the wobbly wheel , and the one that squeeks the loudest !

I love retirement . 

[Double D]

Up grade the service entry to 200 amp , new disconect for standby generator , new huge breaker pannel , 

Super we will still be able to run the mill when the power lines go down!!

[GGaskill]

220V machines are normally hard wired to the system.  Boxes but no plugs, no outlets.

[1Southpaw]

Where we move machines to different locations  we have 50 Amp Plugs and Cords.  Currently running every thing off one outlet . Have to plug ,unplug to use welder , Plasma cutter . Lathe , Mill , Only the Air Compressor is hard wired in to the 220 outlet that I run the others off . The  single 220 out let is 40 ' from the big  door , so 8-3 extension cord is run when welding or cutting out doors .   Same with the 40 X100 shed , it had just one 220  outlet and one 110 outlet .
 Back in the 50's when the original shop was built it didn't have one 220 circuit.
I wired in one for a Buzz box welder for Dad . Prior to that we ran gas engine Lincoln Pipe line welder , and used Acetylene-Oxy for the torch.  The  lathe , Post drills , air compressors were 110 volt.

All the 220 volt equipment has the same plug for universal service.

This is a major rewire of the old 20x30 shop , lean to 16x30 wood shop  and new 40x40 addition . Underground to the other out buildings.

[irishman]

I have been using PhaseOMatic phase convertors on and off for years. They have been reliable. I was just looking at an old machine that was equiped with a phase convertor/frequency control.http://www.actech.com/cgi-bin/site.pl?smv~i I have never used one but rpm control is exciting. One of my vari-speed units is starting to rattle. Has any one used one of these units? I'm sure that you and DD don't have 3 phase availale there in Montana.

                                          Michael

[Soot]

I'm sure that you and DD don't have 3 phase available there in Montana.

In Montana it's called 2 phase cause you can use either foot for power.

[Double D]

Give me a break!!! We aren't backwoods up here...thats for sure no trees, Here is Southpaws estate.





No foot treadle us, we took that off and hooked the wheel to a wind mill.

No not one of these....



one of these...

 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mABEuSg4XgY
 

[Double D]

Bronze?

[Double D]

more.

[RocklockI]

Give me a break!!! We aren't backwoods up here...thats for sure no trees, Here is Southpaws estate.




No foot treadle us, we took that off and hooked the wheel to a wind mill.

No not one of these....



one of these...

 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mABEuSg4XgY
 

A case could be made . Two treadle is one more than most of Montana has . Except for the yuppy parts they got lots of treadles there , three treadles ,five treadles ...you name it but for the most part it's a one treadle place .

They do drive like theres somewhere to go ! I like that ! 95 mph in big honkin pickup trucks . They are treadling thier butts off ! 

[Double D]

 

A case could be made . Two treadle is one more than most of Montana has . Except for the yuppy parts they got lots of treadles there , three treadles ,five treadles ...you name it but for the most part it's a one treadle place .

They do drive like theres somewhere to go ! I like that ! 95 mph in big honkin pickup trucks . They are treadling thier butts off ! 

So I take it you don't like the bronze barrel.

Still working on it.

[dan610324]

thats a beauty dd
please tell us a little more about it

it looks dark enough to be bronze , but its allways difficult to say from only a picture

but it looks unfinished , where is the dolphins   

[RocklockI]

I do like the cannon ! Whats not to like ?  

ETA after looking at the first picture shiny bright and the patina ,....I must say the patina looks better .

It is the same tube right ? How did you patina it ?

I got an old time method ......not sure I want to use it though .

[dan610324]

now Ive been looking at the pictures again
is it some kind of sulphur you have used or what is it ??
how did you achive the final finish ??
the first picture I suppose is the raw finish after the treatment
but the second , have you just polished it with some kind of rag or any other method ??

how will you do to attach the dolphins to it   

[Double D]

Yep an antique patina from JAX.  I bought mine from The Compleat Sculptor


The label says contains selenious acid.  Instructions say brush on with a bristle brush or immerse the item to be colored in the liquid.  I tried the brush method, and it didn't work very well.  Coloring was inconsistent and streaky.  Instructions also say after the finish is applied, rinse in water and dry.  After drying use steel wool to polish and highlight..  That seemed to just take the metal back to brass.  

Alternate method listed is to immerse in the solution, rinse in water then dry and polish with a cloth.  Wiping with a cloth thinned the finish.

The instructions also say the finish can be oiled or lacquered.

I tired the both methods.  

The best for this application was immersion.
 
I had problems finding a container large enough and small enough to fit the barrel in. Finally dug out one of the small part tanks I use for slow rust bluing.  The barrel fit fine but the pint of liquid I had was not enough to totally cover the barrel, so I to roll the barrel back and forth to get uniform coverage.  I used rubber gloves and a dowel to move the barrel.  I kept moving the barrel around in the solution until the barrel was black. I rinsed the barrel and dried it with air.



The first time I used a cotton cloth to wipe the oxidation of but the finish was either too thin or too soft and it wiped off to brass.



I wasn't satisfied so I dipped the barrel again, rinsed and dried.  After drying this time I spray the barrel with oil and then wiped the barrel off with a cloth.



I think the multiple dip and wipe method allows the color to build up and gave the finish that I was looking for. I think the process could be continued and a darker and darker finish more uniform could be achieved.



So back to paint making...

[dan610324]

I think that color is very beautiful

[Double D]

Thanks Dan.  I think it came out pretty good also.

Irishman made us a beautiful cannon, and adding this patina makes it even better.  It's even better looking in person!

[dan610324]

its always difficult to show the real color on a photo

[Double D]

Well, I put 28 teaspoons of Yellow ochre , 1 teaspoon Japan dryer, 72 teaspoons of boiled linseed oil  and teaspoon of spirits of turpentine in a bowl and mixed it up....nice pretty yellowish color...I think Lord Nelson would approve.

[RocklockI]

Is this a patina that will continue to darken ?

[dan610324]

wow you are even making your own paint for that carriage , I love it
it aint many who would go that far

[Double D]

Is this a patina that will continue to darken ?

I think it might continue to darken if I didn't neutralize it by rinsing it  in water.

The paint making is a "why not" experiment.  If it works, great. If it doesn't I just take a sample up to the hardware store and color match.

I am retired and have time to play. 

[GGaskill]

While measuring by volume is probably OK, the instructions gave the proportions by weight.

It sure is yellow.  Let's see something painted with it.

[Double D]

While measuring by volume is probably OK, the instructions gave the proportions by weight.

It sure is yellow.  Let's see something painted with it.

I wonder if that is why it is so watery!