Removing Chrome

[Dixie Dude]

I have a Model M48 Topper, 12 gauge, 30" full choke, chrome plated shotgun made sometime in the 50's or 60's.  It has chrome flaking off in places.  I have some questions and hope this is the right forum.

1) What is the best way to remove chrome?
2) Should I rechrome the shotgun?  I really don't like chrome plating.
3) If after removing the chrome, will blueing the gun look ok?
4) How do I get the screw holding the stock on unscrewed.  It jus will no budge with a large hand screwdriver. 

Wood on this shotgun is nice walnut.  I would like for it to have practical use and chrome is too bright for hunting and can draw attention in the night for self defence.  It might have once been a good boat gun, but the chrome is flaking off at the hammer and around pins and near the end of the barrel. 

[Silvertp]

Dixie Dude

Ive never removed chrome plating, but if I were to try I would start with bead blasting.  Im thinking that by starting where the plating is flaked the blast media would peel it right off. 

Bead blasting should leave a nice satin finish on the metal, unless there is pitting from rust.  From there I would coat or treat with any of the several finishes from Brownells.

As for the screw, I have had good luck removing stubborn screws by placing the offending parts in my chest freezer for several hours or overnight.  They usually just screw out after the chill treatment.

Silvertp 

[quickdtoo]

It's likely electroless nickel plated which can be removed with chemicals. Do an internet search for removing nickel plating, I read one that vinegar was used for 2 weeks. The Brownell's product doesn't mention cast iron which the M48 is made of.

Tim

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1102/Product/ROOM_TEMPERATURE_NICKEL_STRIPPER

http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/INST-529.pdf

[Dixie Dude]

Is the cast iron reciever stronger than steel?  Also, it doesn't say anywhere that I can find, but was just wondering if it is a 3" mag.  A shell fits, but am afraid to try one. 

[quickdtoo]

No, cast iron(ductile iron) is weaker than steel alloy used in modern firearms. Someone else will have to answer the chamber question, I'm not a shotgun guy. 

Tim

[PHATINJUN]

"Check the Faq's not only will you find out what decade it was actually built but you will know the exact yr. kurt 

Also BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE 3" SHELLS. If is does not say 3" it probly is not made to take 3" .You can fit 3" shells into many shot guns made for 2 3/4" only but the problem is the crimp DOES NOT open or doesn't open correctly as there is not enough room."

I doubt very much that it is a 3" chamber. Don't know about the Chrome but there are many spray paints out there that you can cover it with. All the manufacture dates are listed in the FAQ'S. Not sure when they started to use 3" chambers but nearly all 3" chambers are marked as such. Kurt

[Dixie Dude]

My serial number is 41xxx with no letter in front or back.  Was this made before WWII?  Hammer does not half cock.  It kind of recoils after firing about a 3rd of the way back.  So, I really don't know when it was made.  Also, how do you bead blast?  Is it like sand blasting?  I didn't want to put too much money into this shotgun unless it is worth it.  Oh, and the forearm snaps on.

[PHATINJUN]

"I didn't want to put too much money into this shotgun unless it is worth it." It appears to be pre 1940 then...anything that you do to this gun short of oil to try and stop any rust will remove value. Not sure what you mean by "worth it". Anything you do to the gun to make it look prettier will reduce $$ value and historic value .Stop any rust with oil and hang it on the wall. You can buy lots of single shot H&R's for $50-$100 that are safer to shoot .As I said before don't shoot the 3" out of this gun it may infact not even be 2 3/4" Kurt