WFN for cap and ball revolver?

[bagdadjoe]

Veral,
have you made a WFN for a .44 cap and ball?  Looks like that would be a good combo.  I'm not so hot on the roundballs and the conicals might as well be round nose.
From what I've read the "oldtimers" who used to use these weapons before cartridges declared the roundballs "hit harder" and were more effective.  Seems to me to be along the same principle as the WFN with the roundball having a wider meplat that a conical.  How far off am I?  I'd be interested in trying it if you think it's feasable or if you have had or know someone who has had success with them.
thanks in advance,
Joe

[Veral]

  Main issue with cap and ball revolvers is lack of powder room, which is the reason round balls hit hardest for the old timers.  Anything longer reduced the powder and power.
  I make what I call a BB  (Ball Bullet) for cap and ball revolvers.  It's the same height as a roundball, with a substantial flat on a round ball nose, but a bullet base.  The flat nose allows it to be seated out a bit for more powder room and better impact on live targets, while the bullet base with grease groove, increases weight a little compared to a round ball, improves accuracy because of better bore grip.  They would outperform a WFN, which would have to be speically cut to get them to chamber, and would leave little powder space if made heavy.

[bagdadjoe]

Veral,
thanks for the reply and info.  Probably order one after I recover from Christmas.....

[Veral]

  I'd like that.  It will help me recover too!

[StrawHat]

The BB sounds interesting but I was not able to find it in your catalog.  How did I miss it?

[rkeltner]

if your chambers are not to big, you can use a 160 to 200 grain round nose or rounded flat with a normal rb charge! (i'm assuming you're shooting 45 cal) i very rarely shoot rb's in my 1858 rem army any more. since they're prelubed, it cuts down on the mess with greasing the chambers, too! make sure the lube grooves are full if you do this, or you may not get full protection from chain fires!)

[StrawHat]

if your chambers are not to big, you can use a 160 to 200 grain round nose or rounded flat with a normal rb charge! (i'm assuming you're shooting 45 cal) i very rarely shoot rb's in my 1858 rem army any more. since they're prelubed, it cuts down on the mess with greasing the chambers, too! make sure the lube grooves are full if you do this, or you may not get full protection from chain fires!)

AS long as you are getting a ring of lead shaved from the bullet, you should not have to use grease.  I have always used a wad under the bullet (usually a round ball), less messy than grease.  Sam Colt believed chain fires came fromthe rear of the cylinder.  I tend to think that also.

[fr3db3ar]

I'm about to be trying something different than round ball.  After I loaded my 58 NA this year (I use a wad under the ball)  I've noticed the ball sliding up and down in the cylinder.  I get a good ring when loading.  I just keep pushing them back down before going out for the day....but it's kind of annoying.  I'm using a 451 ball as that's all that seems to be available around here.

I have a lot of empty space left in the cylinder even when using 35 grains FFG.  I think I'll look around for some shaped bullets and give them a try.

[Veral]

  You didn't find the BB in my catalog because it isn't listed, nor are many bullets from 50 cal up to 8 bore but I make them. 
  Just ask for a BB and send diameter of the cylinder mouths off your revolver.

  The other guys recommending balls, wads etc, all keep the power limitations down or lower them.  The object behind the BB is to increase power, killing punch, and accuracy. 

  If one would apply a bit of wise thought to the matter, chain fires can't happen unless there is a crack open for fire to flow around a ball.  A ball which isn't perfectly round.