Finishing a new stock

[kansasj]

I just purchased a new walnut stock and forend for my Handi.   I have been doing research on tru-oil finish vs. linseed oil etc.  Any suggestions out there on preferences and application. 

[kansasj]

I have read the FAQs but do not want to use a poly based finish.  I would like to stay with an oil finish!

[quickdtoo]

Tru Oil is my favorite, easy to use and works great, 

Tim

[kansasj]

Quick,
Do you thin it with mineral spirits for the first two applications for better penetration?   Do you steel wool lightly between coats? and last how many coats do you apply?
Tx
Kansasj

[quickdtoo]

I use it right out of the can, just apply a little with my fingers/hand, rub until it feels almost dry, let it dry, repeat, usually takes 6-12 coats, depends on the wood.

Tim

[necchi]

Like quick said Birchwood casey tru oil works just fine. Straight out of the bottle, I rub it on with a finger tip and again, apply several coats.
Defenatly stay away from PolyUrathane!! Yes it's qiuck and easy but IMO absolutly ruins a fine wood!

I like the end result with linseed oil better than tru oil, but a proper application of linseed oil can take months with further applications every year so to maintain the desired finish. It takes a looong time to dry between coats. Tru oil can be applied in light layers twice a day and a nice finished product can be had in a week.

Just to throw a wrench in the mix, I'm building a ML in curly maple and will use Permalyn sealer applied as a saturated primary coat, then several coats of Tung Oil, but this gun will see little feild service and be a designated "Range Rooster".
 All my field guns or those that are referb'd for freinds that will see field use have been done with BC Tru-Oil, it's easy to use, tough, and can be easily "touched up" in the future if needed. A few sandings when fully dry between coats fills the grain nicley,,Walnut is going to need some extra rubbing to fill the grain, put it on kinda heavy, then rub across the grain as it gets tacky,,another tip, When ya get the bottle just poke a small hole in the foil seal and pour a little out into a dixiecup or something,,If ya open the whole thing it'll start to dry in the bottle and make you sad.

[MSP Ret]

I much prefer a nice tung oil finish, 6-10 coats is plenty. Waterproof, easy to touch up, and a real classic oil finish....<><....

[quickdtoo]

I just poked a hole in the top of the can and sealed it with a screw eye and Tru oil. 

Tim

[aromakr]

I'm in the process of finishing a stock as I write this, I learned a trick from a friend of mine. From Mid-way I bought some Bone-black. Mix it with some True-Oil and using a rag rub across the grain and allow to dry. Your stock will look like you just spray painted it with flat black paint. After drying sand off using 320 grit and finish with 400 grit. This will allow ordinary wood to come alive and really nice wood to say HELLO.
 Then as Tim said using small amount on your finger rub a coat on allow to dry. I wet sand with 600 grit between coats. After the last coat I rub the stock out using Pumice mixed with mineral oil. This will produce a dull finish, if a gloss is desired repeat the rub-out using rottenstone and mineral oil.
Bob

[Spanky]

Boiled linseed oil put on in scrub coats with 0000 steel wool. Don't use regular linseed oil, it'll take about 15 years for it to dry.
Keep coating until you get the look you want.



Spanky

[kansasj]

Thanks everyone!
Some speak of using Birchwood Casey's "stocksheen & conditioner" when done with the tru-oil finish.  Is this worth the $ and time?  will it give the stock any better finished qualities?

[Slowhanddd]

KJ,tru oil has always been enough for me.Very deep shine with 8-10 coats.As has been said apply it in thin coats and you can get two a day.Some times three.Depends on the temp and humidity of your shop.It really pops the grain in the wood.Slow

[peternap]

I much prefer a nice tung oil finish, 6-10 coats is plenty. Waterproof, easy to touch up, and a real classic oil finish....<><....

Me Too!
It takes longer and doesn't give that "Shine" but I much prefer the eggshell finish.

The last half dozen or so coats should be rubbed in with 1000 grit paper and let dry.

Aromakr, that's an old trick and works very well. ML stock makers use something close to give the old grime patina. Leave a few dents and dings, paint it with black paint, let dry and sand then finish the stock.

Using Fiblings leather finish in yellow enhances the grain of maple. sand lightly after than use a reddish brown or a combination to finish. The yellow grain comes through like a florescent brown grain.