Author Topic: Wintertime projects Ruger #1 accurizing (Read 5150 times)

mattparliament · « **on:** December 19, 2009, 12:29:26 PM »

So the hunting season is over and it's time to hibernate in the basement with some gun projects. I have a #1b in a 270 that was unaltered. It was a little picky with loads and I ended up with 150 grain BT's at 3100 fps. They shot 1.5" IF I let the stock cool really well between shots, shoot too quickly and I got vertical stringing. I love the gun and believe it can do better, all of my other #1's do. I'd like it to be a 500 yard antelope gun (with the proper practice of course). Here's what I did today:

Installed a Moyer's trigger I had laying around.

New scope base and rings from www.scopemounts.com

fully free-floated the forend.

put a firm pressure point between the hanger and barrel, in hind sight that may not have been necessary but it is easily removable.

Installed a tru-glo 8-32x44 scope with mil-dot.

the package looks really nice in my opinion.

Thoughts? Can't wait to get out to shoot it!

Hairtrigger · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2009, 02:47:56 PM »

add a poor man's hicks

mattparliament · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2009, 03:13:59 PM »

adding my "pressure point between the hanger and barrel" was my "poor man's hicks"!

hopefully it works!!! can't wait to get out

Hairtrigger · « **Reply #3 on:** December 19, 2009, 03:40:29 PM »

until you shoot it, I would do nothing other than make sure it is clean

Fred M · « **Reply #4 on:** December 19, 2009, 07:34:10 PM »

mattparliament.
Please tell me something about the Moyers trigger. What is the final pull weight. Do they fit well.

On another forum this trigger did get a bad review, I almost bought one. But got a Kepplinger instead. I am not all that exited about the Kepplinger. After a box of shells it all came appart adjusting screws came loose and the trigger quit working. Difficult to install and ill fitting. The trigger is not tall enough by 0.025" to reach the sear extension.

The Kepplinger has lot of back lash. The first stage pull is not addressed. I need to do some more work on it to smooth out the pull along the sear extension. I also lighten the hammer ala Moulds speed lock hammer.

I believe my own trigger work to get the pull weight down to 30oz on the new supplied triggers is far better than the set trigger. It is crisp, breaks like a glass rod, no back lash, no creep and no adjustments.

One of the better triggers are the older Ruger adjustable triggers
I have two of those and they work perfect.

flintman · « **Reply #5 on:** December 19, 2009, 09:18:41 PM »

Looks like I need to keep an eye on this thread!I have a .45/70...

Hairtrigger · « **Reply #6 on:** December 20, 2009, 12:57:15 AM »

Fred

The guys on the Ruger No.1 group sure do like the Moyers. One person on another forum is the only Nay sayer of Moyers I have run across.
I have two varmint rifles that have set triggers. One has a Canjar the other has a Kepplinger. I much prefer the Kepplinger trigger as the Canjar does not leave room to get behind the trigger to push it forward to set it, also it is much compared to a trigger shoe in width. The Kepplinger is a sleek appearing trigger and mine functions beautifully.
Rifle magazine did run an article on improving the factory trigger and I did follow the instructions and ended up with a trigger with a #4-5 pull which I believe would be fine for most big game rifles but for a 22 caliber varmint rifle I want closer to #2

curteric · « **Reply #7 on:** December 20, 2009, 01:10:33 AM »

I have 3 Moyers triggers on #1's, and near as I can tell they replicate the original Ruger 3 screw trigger.
2of mine are set at 3 lb, and the 1V is at 2 lb. I really like them.
Curt

mattparliament · « **Reply #8 on:** December 20, 2009, 06:40:43 AM »

fred~

what these guys are saying is accurate, the Moyer's is just a copy of the old adjustable triggers. It did well for me, I believe it's in the 2.5# area but I don't have a measuring device. I'm tempted to take apart the entire trigger assembly and smooth out some of the bearing surfaces, it feels a tad "gritty" if that makes sense. Hope all is well and merry Christmas everybody!

Fred M · « **Reply #9 on:** December 20, 2009, 09:03:29 AM »

Mery Christmas to Matt, Hair and all the others and thanks for the Moyer trigger replies. I have seen some pictures of the Moyer as cast and was not impressed. Maybe they need exterior finishing?

As I said my own trigger weight reduction of excactly 30oz is about as good as I like. BTW I honed one down as much as 16oz
on a 243 but found it to be too light in cold weather so I changed it back to 30oz.

I have a spare hammer and try to set up my friends milling mashine using a a carbide end mill and find the right angle on the hammer notch using the 30oz hammer as a model. The sear only needs polishing with Flitz with a small leather wheel on a Dremmel tool.

This would really cut down on work and de and reassembly for testing. I am very pleased with the 30oz results.
Besides these after market triggers are very expensive. Specially here in Canada.

As far as the lightning of the hammer goes, I think it helps too
a little with accuracy. Well that is what it is all about.

As a standard procedure I install a wood block between the hanger and the barrel, 0.032" larger than the existing space.

Under the hanger I remove a little wood, when tighten the fore arm screw that will post tension the fore arm which puts uplift on both the action and the fore arm tip. Which can be increased by a strip of electr. tape on the fore arm tip. 15lbs is about right for up lift. I am not a believer in free floating.

Tom W. · « **Reply #10 on:** December 20, 2009, 01:09:53 PM »

I had a Moyers trigger installed on my #1 7mm Rem Mag about three or four years ago, had it adjusted to 2.5 pounds and am exteremely pleased. No slack, creep or takeup, it just breaks really clean and hasn't given me any problems..

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #11 on:** December 20, 2009, 04:03:23 PM »

I have, over the years, glass bedded a few #1 forends, but have never tried the screw through the hanger trick.

I like to glass bed to the hanger and a couple spots just ahead of the action.

I have also bedded to the barrel between the end of the forarm hanger and the action which worked well.

We are not talking winning bench rest groups here, but everyone of my #1s has shot quite well, with no stringing or forend induced bad groups.

I also took care of that uggggly Alex Henry forend in one case.

By taking off the tip at a 45 degree angle, right behind the notch, You can install a piece of contrasting walnut or ebony and end up with a way cool looking rifle.

Take care, and you won't even need to recut any checkering!

Plus, you still have the solid barrel band for attachment of the sling.

If I can get someone to buy my RUGER Redlabel, there is a #1 - 45/70 which needs to come home with me.

If it makes it, I will again need to do a bedding job and take care of that uggggggggggggggly forend!

Keep em coming!

CDOC

Fred M · « **Reply #12 on:** December 20, 2009, 05:02:28 PM »

Tom W.
Thanks for the statement on the Moyer trigger, which confirms others. For a while I was in doubt.

Darrell Davis.

You and others are not pleased with the looks of the Alexander Henry fore arm end. Myself I think it is unique brought out in Scottland on the Farquarsen falling block rifle and the Alexander Henry 450 Express rifles. It is a bit of history captured by Bill Ruger.

http://www.gunsinternational.com/Cased-Alexander-Henry-450-Express-SS.cfm?gun_id=100096185&CFID=2154085&CFTOKEN=cbeb94f4eab728cc-5BD8A7E9-037F-6EF6-59AE11BA84FF9DCB

If you do a search on this forum you find a thread on this subject.

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #13 on:** December 20, 2009, 06:10:18 PM »

Thanks Fred.

I have been a RUGER fan for a bunch of years, buying my first shortly out of H.S. back in 1961 and groving on #1s from the first time I saw one, but the Alex Henry forend, no matter how historic, had been one thing I just couldn't handle.

I really like #1s, a lot, but when I got a good deal on that 300win mag with "that" forend it just had to go.

Took me awhile to figure it out, but once done I like it better then the #1B.

The forend is slimmer then the 1B style and with a nice piece of walnut for a tip looks very nice.

A piece of ebony would make it classic for sure.

Keep em coming!

CDOC

nomosendero · « **Reply #14 on:** December 24, 2009, 02:57:04 PM »

Quote from: Hairtrigger on December 19, 2009, 02:47:56 PM

add a poor man's hicks

What kind of improvements have you achieved by doing this ? I love the appearance & balance of the Number 1, but my accuracy was so so when I had one in 7RM & sold it. I have heard that the barrels are better now, if I thought I could solve the forearm wierdness, I may try again, 375 H&H or 45-70 I think.

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #15 on:** December 25, 2009, 08:39:23 AM »

nomosendero,

This would be done, I am guessing to allow the forend to be floated and thereby removing the forend barrel pressure.

Personally, and IMHO, I like my bedding method better as it takes the removal of barrel pressure to the next level by moving any forearm to barrel contact closer to the action.

It also does NOT apply the pressure between the forearm hanger and the barrel which is seen in the photographs. Again, IMHO.

When looking at the inside of the forearm and the area just in front of the action, you can see points where the forearm can be bedded there and to the forearm hanger.

This removes all or most all contact/pressure between the forearm wood and the barrel except that contact right at the action and within the first inch +/- forward.

Of course, the forearm wood also needs to be sanded out to prevent any wood to barrel contact.

I know that there are some rifles of almost any make which shoot less the favorably, but I have never had a #1 that didn't shoot well.

If and when I can get someone to relieve me of my Redlabel, I think I will try my luck with a 45/70 - #1 which is calling to me from an area pawn shop.

Keep em coming!

CDOC

Hairtrigger · « **Reply #16 on:** December 25, 2009, 11:54:38 AM »

The pics show an adjustable pressure point for the barrel. The fore end is free floated in a different manner.
You guys can send me your un liked Alex Henry fore ends.
I would like to see pics of the modified fore ends also

Fred M · « **Reply #17 on:** December 25, 2009, 02:30:25 PM »

When I build my 6.5x284 I toke the standard B1 fore arm and cut 2" off and reshaped the fore to an Alexander Henry fore arm.

It made the rifle look trimmer with the octagon barrel, Like I said before I do like the trim looks of that fore arm.

moorepower · « **Reply #18 on:** January 14, 2010, 11:59:44 AM »

The hicks is supposed to tune the hanger and put a little pressure on the barrel. The little screw has works for a lot of guys, but not all guns like it.

ardeekay · « **Reply #19 on:** January 22, 2010, 02:13:30 PM »

I have to comment on Alex henry forends... I am new to loving # 1's.. I only have a 1-B so far, but the alex Henry looks like some one did a "oops" with a router.. If I aquire one with that forend, I will do as mentioned, cut off behind the 'oops' and epoxy on a piece of ebony or walnut or bondo... Bob

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #20 on:** January 22, 2010, 08:45:37 PM »

Even'n ardeekay,

I like your humor!

I have loved the #1, probably since the first ad I ever saw, and trading that basket case - post 64 - winfester for my first #1 in 7 mag was a dream come true.

I tell you I was one happy camper that elk season!

Made the longest shot on a eating sized critter I will probably ever make with that rifle. Bang flop!

Anyway, I also could never handle the "routered" forend and it took me a bit of thinking before I came up with the idea to do the chop at a 45 degree angle up tight to the groove.

I normally like my forends to have a 90 degree angle, so had to think outside My Box in this situation.

The 45 degree angle does allow for a great fit in this case, and if your careful with your shaping and sanding, little recutting of the forearm checkering will be needed.

Be sure and pin that forend tip if you make this modification. Use some steel pins made from welding rod or a good hard piece of clothes hanger wire.

If the wood allows, I like to use 4 pins, but 2 would be a rock bottom minimum.

Because the steel pins needs smaller holes then a wood dowel, it makes it less likely you will cut into the pin hole while finishing.

I have always used Acraglas liquid as a bonding material and have had 100% positive results on tips or grip caps.

I usually use some pieces of intertube - cut into "rubber bands" - to hold the forend in place as the resin cures. Pull them tight!

Pre fit and check before attaching, drill your pin holes just large enough to allow a small amount of resin to surround the pin - this will help keep the tip in place on that 45 degree angle -, and rough up the pins a bit to make the bonding more positive.

Use a good saw for your cuts, making sure the forearm cut is square with the length of the forearm and the result is great.

As I think I said back aways, a contrasting walnut looks very good in this application, but if I get to convert the 45/70 I am slobering over, I think I will make it a class act and go with ebony on this one.

Keep em coming!

CDOC

Hank08 · « **Reply #21 on:** January 23, 2010, 06:24:54 AM »

I need an Alex Henry forend. I would like to buy one from one of you folks who hate them and are planning to cut them up. Please!
Thanks,
H08

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #22 on:** January 23, 2010, 02:47:17 PM »

Sorry on this end Hank08.

If I had one, it would be the starting point for the conversion.

It really makes for a trim and shapely forend, and still allows for use of the barrel band for slings.

I have always liked the #1, but with the forend given this treatment these 1s are the coolest of the lot!

Keep em coming!

CDOC

mattparliament · « **Reply #23 on:** March 06, 2010, 03:34:26 PM »

****UPDATE****

wintertime broke and I got out today

it shot 3/4" groups with the 90 grain sierra varminters which it shot the worst before the work...

I'm a happy puppy...

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #24 on:** March 06, 2010, 05:39:23 PM »

Good news Matt,

My project is a go, the shotgun sold and the 45/70 #1-s came to my house to reside.

The ebony is on order for the forend, the brass, mold, reloading dies, sizing/lubing die & top punch have all arrived and I just finished my second casting session this afternoon.

Loaded up 50 banger loads last night and todays session produced bullets of a quality to allow loading of test loads.

Now all I need is to resolve the scope issue and I'll be good to go.

Anybody have any extra elephants running around?

Keep em coming!

CDOC

Reverend Recoil · « **Reply #25 on:** March 09, 2010, 11:22:10 AM »

Think of your Ruger No.1 with an Alex Henry forend as being circumcised.

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #26 on:** March 09, 2010, 12:30:17 PM »

No circumcised here, this going to be a cut

it off and transplant

!

The block of ebony arrived from Brownell's today, so soon as I again get a supply of Acraglas that forend is going to get the transplant, floating and bedding.

They look waaaaaaay

cool with the transplant!!!!!!!!!!!!

Keep em coming!

CDOC

mannyrock · « **Reply #27 on:** March 12, 2010, 04:07:21 AM »

OK, so on the Alex Henry forearm, what is that little circular groove suppose to do? Why was it originally there?

Mannyrock

Darrell Davis · « **Reply #28 on:** March 12, 2010, 05:58:26 AM »

Mannyrock,

Can't answer that question, seems like somewhere in the distant past I may have heard an answer, but??.

I did a custom stock on an old RUGER "flat bolt" m77 back 20+ years ago, putting a nice/cool/classie/way cool etc. snabble on the ebony tip. Young son calls it a "gut scrapper"!

Crazy know nuth'in kid!!!!!!!! Wouldn't know class if it came up and hit him in the head!

.

So maybe the Alexander Henry is a gut scraper with the "scraper" rubbed/warn off??.

Then on the other hand, maybe someone who really knows will come back and give us a real answer!

Anyway, the ebony IS here and that router Oooooops just has to go!

Keep em coming!

CDOC

Reverend Recoil · « **Reply #29 on:** March 12, 2010, 03:08:18 PM »

"OK, so on the Alex Henry forearm, what is that little circular groove suppose to do? Why was it originally there?"

One story I heard was that the groove was used to secure the rifle to a pack with loop of cord. It's the only thing that makes sense to me. I doubt if the people at Ruger know.