Author Topic: Ruger trigger pull (Read 3138 times)

hunterspistol · « **on:** January 02, 2010, 06:40:34 AM »

Gentlemen,
I'm new to this section of Graybeards, just ordered my first Blackhawk in 41 Magnum. What can I guy expect factory trigger pull to be? Although I shoot more silhouettes, I do watch the CAS at the range. Neat stuff.

For now, I'm reading you. Makes for great winter entertainment. As far as discussion goes, the 32-20WCF in a TC Contender outdoes 32 Mag if both are loaded to lead. Now, that's a silhouette gun!

Axehandle · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2010, 06:50:42 AM »

If you have been shooting silhouette with a finely tuned TC Contender you will find the NM Blackhawk trigger really nasty.... A properly done trigger job will make a world of difference...

We like the 32-20 AND the 32/327 Mag in TCs AND revolvers!

Glanceblamm · « **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2010, 07:41:06 AM »

Very Creeeepy!
It can be agonizing in fact to try & pickup .050-.060k of slack while waiting for that Ruger trigger to break which isn't bad (pound wise) when it happens.

I would recommend a trigger job but to be truthfull with you, I did not. Seems like after just a couple hundred rounds through any of my three I instinctively learned how much to initially pressure up the trigger before bearing down hard on the target. The action, in the mean time, becomes slicker through usage and I am at the point now that two of them are very good with the third still having some creep.

Trigger jobs here in the midwest seem to be around $150 while more to the S\W the job only cost $75 or so.

Ole Man Dan · « **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2010, 10:11:39 AM »

I had John Gallagher do actions on a number of Blackhawk's & Vaquero's. Excellent work.
I've also got a couple that he hasn't worked on that have smoothed out and eventually got a good action.

If you send it out to get an action job, consider having the Ruger 'Bible' polished off. I've had barrels shortened, reverse pawls added and John has given me back some great shooters.

Autorim · « **Reply #4 on:** January 02, 2010, 01:16:28 PM »

I currently have two Ruger Bisleys in Alan Harton's hands for trigger work and front sights. His work has always been superb for me. Why wait for wear to maybe smooth out the action when you can have everything you want now by supporting the fine craftsmen in the gunsmith trades.

Ken

Bigeasy · « **Reply #5 on:** January 02, 2010, 01:38:15 PM »

Like any new gun, pulls vary. Usually the Ruger SA pull is not that bad, but don't expect a crisp 2 1/2 pound pull either. One trick is to remove the grip pannels. You will note a coil type spring at the top of the grip frame that attaches to studs on each side of the top of the grip frame. This is the trigger spring. Remove it from one of the studs (which one does not matter), and let the end rest against the frame. Re attache the grips. Hard to discribe, but remove the grips, and you will see what I mean pretty easily. This will not smooth the pull, or reduce creep, but will lighten the pull several pounds without creating any other issues.

Larry

rawhidekid · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02, 2010, 08:36:51 PM »

I agree with Bigeasy, the poor mans trigger job works just fine. It won't require breaking the bank to get done eather.

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #7 on:** January 03, 2010, 01:49:33 AM »

id say the average ruger is about 8lbs with lots of creap. I could never see how anyone could shoot a trigger like that with any kind of accuracy.

Axehandle · « **Reply #8 on:** January 03, 2010, 01:50:49 AM »

+1 on the poor man's trigger to get the gun to the field quick... I performed the job on 4 Rugers a few years back and measured the before and after... Pull weight was definitely an improvement over stock for every Blackhawk tested... IMHO It does produce an odd little kick felt in the trigger when the hammer falls and has little if no effect on creep..... I believe this felt "kick" is produced by the released trigger spring leg dragging on the hammer spring.

Autorim · « **Reply #9 on:** January 03, 2010, 03:47:55 AM »

When I get a revolver back from Alan Harton, it has an entirely new feel. The cocking action is smooth and just has a different feel and sound. The let off is crisp and I have him add a trigger stop so overtravel is minimal. IMHO it is well worth the cost for a revolver that I plan to shoot, enjoy and transfer to my son and grandson. Another $100.00 is a small price to pay for such a great shooting gun. If I sell or trade it, will I get my money back? No, but I don't plan to do either. I had rather own one great shooting gun than two that were just OK.

I have decided that the Bisley grip is the only way to go so I now own only Bisley Rugers and I don't mind investing a bit more the have them perform the way I want. Maybe at this stage in life I just like to indulge in a little overspending, but it sure feels good when I get the guns back from Alan and go shoot them.

Ken

rawhidekid · « **Reply #10 on:** January 03, 2010, 04:11:45 AM »

The only problem with the custom trigger jobs and springs swap outs, is that if you for any reason have to send the gun back to the factory. At the factory they will return everything to stock.

Autorim · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2010, 05:43:48 AM »

After having top notch work done to one of my revolvers, I can't imagine why I would ever send it back to Ruger.

2 dogs · « **Reply #12 on:** January 03, 2010, 07:42:08 AM »

Auto Rim is right. Why screw around. Send it to Harton. He does the absolute best triggers I have seen. He can also install an internal trigger stop. At any rate, when you get it back from him it will be crisp, light, with NO creep or backlash! Everyone deserves a good trigger.

2 dogs · « **Reply #13 on:** January 03, 2010, 07:43:45 AM »

I make the above statement based on the fact that Harton has done at least 20 ruger triggers for me and they are consistently and uniformly excellent.

SAA · « **Reply #14 on:** January 03, 2010, 11:34:54 AM »

If you have a pair of pliers you can fix the trigger pull on your Blackhawk yourself.
This is way better than a "poor mans trigger job"

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

Of course you get the best result with a complete trigger job, but just taking out the trigger spring and bending it as shoved in the link above will do wonders, and its easy + it wont cost you anything.

Keith L · « **Reply #15 on:** January 04, 2010, 12:03:57 AM »

I have a Vaquero and a Single Six. Both have acceptable triggers in them. The SS I got used so I don't know what happened to it prior to it coming to live with me. The Vaquero was new, and has an outstanding trigger: light and crisp, no creep or crunch. I guessed they all came that way...

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #16 on:** January 04, 2010, 02:00:15 AM »

what the poor man trigger doesnt address is creap and creap is more of a detriment to accuracy then heavy trigger pull is. As a matter of fact it seems like creap is even worse to me if the trigger pull is lighter. Also ive seen hammers that will push off with thumb pressure after doing it and some that didnt would do it down the line after some use.

Autorim · « **Reply #17 on:** January 04, 2010, 02:47:33 AM »

I agree with Lloyd on creep. IME, it is really detrimental to accuracy.

hunterspistol · « **Reply #18 on:** January 04, 2010, 12:07:43 PM »

Thank you for your imput and advice, gents. Given this is a 41 Mag, it might be hard to shoot accurately. I've added a lot of pages to the old Favorites section now and, have something to go on. A good gunsmith can really do a lot for shooting.

2 dogs, your opinion is well respected here, yourself and those pistols are pretty famous. Thanks.

Ron

454Puma · « **Reply #19 on:** January 04, 2010, 12:21:06 PM »

I have a NM BH 357 mag and I think the triger is just fine! But I'm not a target shooter and I don't need a hair trigger! And by golly it breaks at less then half an OZ! Smothe as silk! Never been modified/stoned or anything!

Maybe you all need to dry fire a weapon before you buy it!! If I picked up a weapon and the trigger wasn't smothe it would stay in the store! I made that mistake once! Now I dry fire every arm I buy if the action isn't right it stay's in the store!!

texagun · « **Reply #20 on:** January 04, 2010, 12:24:33 PM »

Quote from: 454Puma on January 04, 2010, 12:21:06 PM

Maybe you all need to dry fire a weapon before you buy it!! If I picked up a weapon and the trigger wasn't smothe it would stay in the store! I made that mistake once! Now I dry fire every arm I buy if the action isn't right it stay's in the store!!

I agree with that. Ruger triggers vary greatly from gun to gun. Some are very bad while others are excellent right out of the box. I wouldn't think of buying one without trying it first.

454Puma · « **Reply #21 on:** January 04, 2010, 12:41:19 PM »

So let me get this straight you all want ZERO movement of a trigger before release of the sear?

I get maybe a 1/16" of movement on my BH before sear release? We are talking about SA's here not DA!

Keith L · « **Reply #22 on:** January 04, 2010, 01:58:04 PM »

Quote from: 454Puma on January 04, 2010, 12:41:19 PM

So let me get this straight you all want ZERO movement of a trigger before release of the sear? I get maybe a 1/16" of movement on my BH before sear release? We are talking about SA's here not DA!

It depends on the gun. My Glocks have gobs of travel, as does my 4506 Smith. My model 66 Smith has lots of travel in DA, and zero in SA. My rifles have zero travel, zero creep, and no crunchyness. My Rugers are crisp and light. A trigger maker once told me a perfect trigger has no movement and breaks like a glass rod. I agree with him.

Glanceblamm · « **Reply #23 on:** January 05, 2010, 02:12:03 AM »

Quote from: Lloyd Smale on January 04, 2010, 02:00:15 AM

what the poor man trigger doesnt address is creap and creap is more of a detriment to accuracy then heavy trigger pull is. As a matter of fact it seems like creap is even worse to me if the trigger pull is lighter. Also ive seen hammers that will push off with thumb pressure after doing it and some that didnt would do it down the line after some use.

Have seen this posted more than once and by more than one member over the years here

Have had guys beg me to give it a try (just remove one spring from the top leg) but it is just not worth the possibility of an accidental discharge.

rawhidekid · « **Reply #24 on:** January 05, 2010, 03:32:50 AM »

Have used it for thirty years without a problem, of course I am not the type to go around pushing on the back of my hammer.

RJL-77 · « **Reply #25 on:** January 05, 2010, 05:12:32 PM »

I also have done this to several of my rugers with satisfactory results. I picked up a used NM BH in .45LC in November. I tried the trigger several times at the shop and liked it.. After reading this thread I said to myself ...might just as well take a look. I pulled the stocks off and lo-and-behold...... not only was the spring on the port side unhookked but removed.. That leaves me only the aftermarket pin. What do you guys think about the new pins and what is out there since I did that 20 years ago?
Thanks, Jim

rawhidekid · « **Reply #26 on:** January 05, 2010, 08:45:12 PM »

Seems to me you could get the pin from Ruger, just contact the east coast parts department. They would probubly send it to you free of charge.

BGRooster1 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 06, 2010, 04:45:23 AM »

Go to rugerforum.net.I think most of you'all will learn something about ruger single action triggers.
Go to the ruger single action thread,and check out "tried poor mans trigger job....
It is some very good info from a respected smithy.

Steve P · « **Reply #28 on:** January 06, 2010, 10:12:59 AM »

I have done 20+ trigger jobs on Ruger single action revolvers. Some of these are guns that went thru two or more disassemblies to get the trigger where I wanted them.

Very few of my Rugers have the "loose leg" trigger spring. The leg of the spring that is not resting on the retaining pin in the grip frame has a tendency to ride along side the hammer spring. This can become a big deal as I have seen this spring keep the hammer from coming all the way back. The hammer immediately falls on a loaded round. Gun goes off without pulling the trigger as sear never engages. Some people actually cut this second leg off ("peg-leg" trigger spring) to avoid this. Others bend the leg out so it doesn't contact the hammer spring.

Polishing of parts inside the Ruger action can make a HUGE difference in felt trigger pull and smoothness. Fine grit paper and then dremel tool with jewelers rouge can give nearly a mirror finish. Fine oil like 3-in-1 or Kroil wiped on mating surfaces keep parts smooth and safe. (Don't use lots of oil or the action will gum up with dust or in cold weather. Wiping the surfaces with oily rag is all that is needed.)

Midway sells the Ruger trigger springs for $2.50 each. (I just got 4 new ones in.) Keep a couple of them handy. It only takes a couple of minutes to bend the spring (the link from Cylindersmith above is ok) to a better configuration that lightens pull, but retains trigger return for proper sear engagement.

Simple do it yourself job once you have done it a couple of times.

Steve

Mtn Jack · « **Reply #29 on:** January 27, 2010, 05:39:19 PM »

Keith L said it above, there is pre travel and there is creep. Pre travel is before creep if i have this right. My poundage is perfect as is the creep on my sbh but the pre travel feels like one half inch. How do i take up this play so to speak? The gun is a transition model with a 13000 serial number old model. No conversion. I have jerrys book but cannot find pre travel directions. Any body able to help? I have to have a good trigger if you know what i mean. I am a surgeon by trade and need perfection for this sixgun and my trigger finger. Thanks for your help in advance. Be safe Mtn Jack