Author Topic: More than just sharpening  (Read 871 times)

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Offline matt d

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More than just sharpening
« on: October 30, 2003, 09:51:07 AM »
On Oct 3 I asked what the best sharpening system was.  I ended up buying a Lansky and love it.  I have the extra course and extra fine hones and a strop.  They do the job very well but it is slow.  Slow wouldn't be a problem if I just had my knives to sharpen but I got the great idea to sharpen my friends knives for a small charge now I am backed up and have no time to do anything but sharpen knives.  I am making money but need a new plan.  I have decided I need a 1 x 30 grinder and I even know the one I want.  I haven't bought it yet because I think I'm going to start making knives too.  Will a 1 x 30 grinder like the one that Harborfreight has for $30 be a key part in my knife making or shoud I consider something else.  I would also like to ask the readers of this thread if they have any advise on how to start knife making.  I have ordered a couple of books that will not arrive for a while but that is it.  I don't plan on making hundreds of knives or anything crazy like that, just a couple a year as presents and stuff.  I would really value some help and direction.  Thanks
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Online JeffG

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More than just sharpening
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2003, 07:29:39 AM »
If I made any mistake when I bought equipment, it was buying a belt sander that had too wide of a belt, (4inches)  When you buy your sander make sure your local woodworking shops and warehouse hardware stores carry those size belts, in many different grits.  You don't want to have to mail order everything.  Make sure your belt sander has a loose area with no backing and a platten area, that has a platform behind it.  Don't forget eye protection and a filter mask.  GOOD LUCK! and have fun! :D
Young guys should hang out with old guys; old guys know stuff

Offline Joel

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More than just sharpening
« Reply #2 on: November 01, 2003, 12:47:38 PM »
Matt,
My progression in grinding went like this:
1.  Homemade grinding wheel(old washing machine moter) and files.
2.  Standard double wheeled grinder and files.
3. 1" x 30" belt grinder with 5 " disc grinder($75.00 several years ago).
4. Currently use a 2" x 42" Sears belt grinder w 8" disk sander($200.00 four years ago.).

Once I decided I was going to mainly flat grind blades, then there really was no serious need for a $2000.00 Bader or Wilton Square Wheels or such with all sorts of wheel/atachments. Not that I wouldn't like one of the big 2" x 72" machines like that, but I can get by well enough without one.  The Sears works ok, the biggest problem being really accurate tracking of the belt.  I found out by building up the center of the drive wheel with masking tape so I had a "crown" helped that matter considerably.  The sears Has A 1 HP moter(maybe its' a 1 1/4) and runs at around 3450 FpM.  That's a good speed for grinding and the motor has enough power/torgue so I can really push the steel if I have to.  The little 1" X 30" worked fine compared to using grinding wheels and files; hell it was like a major advancement in technology, and I ground a lot of blades with it.  Problems were mainly the lack of power: mine and I think the one you're looking at only have 1/3 HP motors.  Means they stall out easily. Still, like I said, it worked for me.  I personally like 2" belts to work with.  One thing to think about is the length of the blades you intend to grind.  If you use a 1" belt and grind a 4" blade, then you need to move the blade four belt widths.   The more blade you grind without having to move the steel the easier it is. Again, I didn't really have problems with using a 1"belt, its just that using a 2" one made the job easier and faster.  Some makers,especially those who flatgrind large bowie type blades like to use 4" or even 6" flat grinders.  Some makers have a variety of grinders to suit the type/length blade they are grinding.  The longest blade I ever ground on the 1" grinder was around 4 1/2"; the longest I've ground on the 2" x 42" is 6 inches. Average time it took me on the 1" grinder to flatgrind a 4" blade to 120 grit was around 2 hours; with the 2" in can do the same blade in 1/2 hour.
     When it comes to belt availability, I've given up on local sources, but then I live kinda in the sticks.  For grinding steel, the various types of zirconia, Silicon Carbide and cork back belts are an absolute requirement. Regular Aluminum Oxide (AO) belts don't last for crap against either stainless or carbon steels.  I use belts with grits ranging from 40-700 grit and have to ordr them from a company.  If you look in a knifesupply catalog, you'll see belts offered for 1 x 30, 1 x 42, 2 x 48 and 2 x72 inch grinders.  The most complete belt types are offered in the 2 x 48 and 2 x 72 inch belts, since these two lengths are most commonly used by makers.  How you'd go about finding steel working belts locally is going to be something of a challenge for you, I imagine; although they might be available in your area.
As far as help making knives go, there's a number of books/videos and sites around that can help.  I learned on my own, grinding old files and old bayonets.  Took me around 10 months before I was REALLY satisfied; enough to offer something for sale. I eventually bought Davie Boye's book "How to Make Knives" and found it to be helpful, although by then I'd started developing my own system.  A look at a knife supply catalog will show you any number of books and videos which would be extremely helpful; most will likely get you building a better knife quicker than I did. I just get stubborn about certain things. The one place on the internet that I find extremely helpful for knifemaking information is at www.ckdforums.com.  You can find all sorts of great information there, there are some nationally known makers who post there regularly.  They also have an excellant tutorial section(how to's) which I've found very valuable.  I'm sure there are many others, I've in fact used others, but sort of stick to CKD anymore.  The biggest thing in learning is to have the confidence in yourself that you CAN make a better blade than most factory's can do, and to also not get discouraged.  Mistakes are how you learn, depressing as that route gets at times.