Author Topic: Party Time (Read 2767 times)

Div Arty · « **on:** January 12, 2010, 04:25:04 PM »

A friend of mine is turning his 3 car garage into a recreation room. He has a big flat screen TV, a no hold-em polker table and a 13 ft. wet bar. It is decorated in a southseas--Pirate theme. Well, you can't have Pirates running around a bar that long without a swivel gun. Ask Tropico. Soooo I went into the shop and started wood chips flying, ala Zulu. The first pix is of construction. Stock that size really jumps around till you get it trued and balanced.

The next three are of the finnished product.

This one is to add character for CW. I couldn't find anyone to dress up for the shot, so I volunteered.

Now the last one looks so good on our coffee table, I don't know if I want to let go.

ron "The Undecided".

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #1 on:** January 12, 2010, 05:46:10 PM »

Quote from: Div Arty on January 12, 2010, 04:25:04 PM

This one is to add character for CW. I couldn't find anyone to dress up for the shot, so I volunteered.

....

Is that a Calendar picture or what?!!!

Double D · « **Reply #2 on:** January 12, 2010, 06:13:02 PM »

Quote from: Cat Whisperer on January 12, 2010, 05:46:10 PM

Quote from: Div Arty on January 12, 2010, 04:25:04 PM

This one is to add character for CW. I couldn't find anyone to dress up for the shot, so I volunteered.

....

Is that a Calendar picture or what?!!!

Concur!!

gulfcoastblackpowder · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2010, 12:27:23 AM »

A great shot, and a neat little project!

Victor3 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2010, 01:12:53 AM »

Quote from: Cat Whisperer on January 12, 2010, 05:46:10 PM

Quote from: Div Arty on January 12, 2010, 04:25:04 PM

This one is to add character for CW. I couldn't find anyone to dress up for the shot, so I volunteered.

....

Is that a Calendar picture or what?!!!

That'd be one for thee cover if'n you'd be askin' me, matey...

Now who can add a bubble with "Arrrrrr" coming out of his mouth?

navygunner · « **Reply #5 on:** January 13, 2010, 03:32:47 AM »

Aye!!!!!! She be a beauty, now where's dat dead man's chest ye be amentioning!!!!

Zulu · « **Reply #6 on:** January 13, 2010, 07:11:04 AM »

Div Arty,
Great job! How did you bore it? I am very interested in this because it is the hardest thing I do with my wooden cannons. I have to guess that you used a forstner bit with the barrel vertical in a drill press. You also couldn't go very deep. Boring end grain is a slow process and dulls your bit very quickly.
What type of wood did you use? I can see that it is laminated.
Give that one away. Make another one.

Zulu

Cannoneer · « **Reply #7 on:** January 13, 2010, 07:13:25 AM »

Div Arty,

That mean, ruthless pirate look you're acting out in the photo is very convincing (at least I hope that's acting).

That's a fine looking swivel gun, I can understand why you'd want to hang on to it.

GGaskill · « **Reply #8 on:** January 13, 2010, 11:36:08 AM »

I think you ought to reshoot that pirate picture with a skull and cross bones flag in the background.

Soot · « **Reply #9 on:** January 13, 2010, 02:06:29 PM »

There is a set of wheel hubs in the first pic, what else you got down there?

KABAR2 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 13, 2010, 03:07:38 PM »

Looks like ZULU has some competition! if this keeps up we will nee a Quaker gun category......

Soot · « **Reply #11 on:** January 13, 2010, 03:27:55 PM »

How about "Organic Guns"

Double D · « **Reply #12 on:** January 13, 2010, 04:06:32 PM »

Gonna be interesting if those two guys get a metal lathe.

Div Arty · « **Reply #13 on:** January 13, 2010, 04:23:58 PM »

Wow! Never expected a Kewpie for this craggy old face. That pix was more of a broadside at CW.
You are correct about boreing end grain Zulu. I didn't have anything but a Irwin expansive bitt for the 1 5/8' hole. So with the help of a very large son in law to hold it down, I went at it with a brace. The wood was just scrap.
GG the only flag I fly barring bad weather is Old Glory, everyday.
Thank's all for the support. ron

PS Soot you will have to wait on the hubs, I have someone looking over my shoulder.

seacoastartillery · « **Reply #14 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:43:32 PM »

Ron, I don't know how we missed this thread; I must not be much of a party animal any more! Mike and I both love your swivel gun; it looks so realistic. Does it have a special paint job to replicate that old-time cast iron look? I bet there will be no cheating at cards in that rumpus room! What a beauty. Two thumbs up from Kunze and Couture.

What's next, Ron?

Tracy and Mike

Zulu · « **Reply #15 on:** January 14, 2010, 03:43:10 AM »

Div Arty.
How deep did you bore it?

Tracy and Mike,
Do you tool guys have any suggestion for boring large diameter (3" to 5") in wood?
Zulu

seacoastartillery · « **Reply #16 on:** January 14, 2010, 05:21:43 AM »

Quote from: Zulu on January 14, 2010, 03:43:10 AM

Div Arty.
How deep did you bore it?

Tracy and Mike,
Do you tool guys have any suggestion for boring large diameter (3" to 5") in wood?
Zulu

   Yes, I think we can offer a suggestion that may work for you in drilling deep, large, end-grain holes in wood. Although the largest hole we ever drilled in wood, end-grain was a 1.5" dia. hole, 30" long in white oak using a gundrill that we made for lathe use, I think we figured out what type of drill you need. Let's face it, a gundrill in the 5" dia. size would weigh at least 35 pounds, not good for your drill press motor!! A light-weight auger, maybe? They don't exist in the dia. needed. A modified Forstner? Can't find in size needed. So what about those hole saws the electricians use. Diameter, yes; depth of cut, NO! Except for one company. Under wood drills, large diameter, deep hole, we found this company:

http://www.advantage-drillbits.com/auger.html



   They make all sorts of drills, but they are the only one we found which make these in all sizes and long lengths:

   Carbide Tip Wood Core Drills

   For large deep hole wood drilling!
   1/2" to 24" diameters any depth!
   When you need to core either samples or for inspection
   of timbers. Best for cutting seawalls, frames, footers,
   bridge inspections. Installation of braces and more.
   The carbide tip design ensures clean smooth holes in the toughest wood.

Powered by a full size drill press or a large lathe, this type of bit could do the job for you , we believe, in a through-hole situation. You certainly can't break off the end-grain core if you're trying to cut a blind hole. We have no experience with this company, but the people they sell to have some pretty severe requirements, so their drills are probably pretty good. They might be expensive too, but we don't know that.

Hope that helps you out as we really like your wood cannons a lot, and don't want you to beat yourself up boring those bores!

Good luck,

Mike and Tracy

Zulu · « **Reply #17 on:** January 14, 2010, 07:34:20 AM »

Mike and Tracy,
Thanks for a good lead! I have sent off an email requesting some pricing but like you I suspect it will be out of home use range. I have a large drill press but have never been able to get any advice for boring other than the way I do it.(labor intensive).
I'll let everyone know the pricing if they respond.
Zulu

Josco · « **Reply #18 on:** January 14, 2010, 08:23:55 AM »

Quote

Tracy and Mike,
Do you tool guys have any suggestion for boring large diameter (3" to 5") in wood?
Zulu

Zulu,

How deep do you have to bore the 3" to 5" hole?

Joe

Zulu · « **Reply #19 on:** January 14, 2010, 10:30:01 AM »

Josco,
This 5" dia. hole is 7" deep.

This 4" bore is full length but was done in segments.

This 2 5/8" bore is only 6" deep. there are no segment breaks in the front of a parrott Rifle.

It depends on what barrel you are doing. But the way I do them is hard.
Zulu

Double D · « **Reply #20 on:** January 14, 2010, 02:31:55 PM »

Steady rest and long spaded drill.

Put the unturned wood block in the lathe. Turn a section a few inches back from the muzzle round. Then fill the round section with Devcon steel. After the Devcon sets, turn the devcon section round. Set the fingers of the steady rest on this section.

Use a long drill to drill a pilot hole.

Then make a long spade drill with avhead like the one Mike made for Gary's sabot's and use it like a boring bar.

Line forms here, to tell why won't that work?

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #21 on:** January 14, 2010, 02:50:06 PM »

Zulu -

Have you considered a STEEL LINER?

Zulu · « **Reply #22 on:** January 14, 2010, 04:19:23 PM »

DD,
Make a spade drill? I'm not sure I know how to do that.

You are talking about boring it on the lathe. I did that on my first barrel on a friends Shopsmith. All the rest I did on a drill press.
Obviously on a wooden static display, the gun doesn't have to be bored all the way. As in the above Parrott Rifle, it looks good and i'm the only one who knows its only bored 6". Of course now everyone on the internet knows. $:-\$
I can't imagine a 4" or 5" dia. spade bit. If it was longer than a standard bit how would you keep it from drifting in end grain? A regular spade bit will drift sometimes.
Zulu

Cat Whisperer,
No steel liners for me in wooden guns.

dan610324 · « **Reply #23 on:** January 14, 2010, 04:56:40 PM »

in a drill press it can drift , but if its bored in a lathe it doesnt drift, at least not that much
I just cant explain why
its the same when working with steel

GGaskill · « **Reply #24 on:** January 14, 2010, 05:30:07 PM »

By spade drill, I think he means something more like a metal drilling spade drill (see below) than an Irwin SpeedBor.

Above is the cutting edge of a metal cutting spade drill. In metal, the holder is drilled for coolant; if drilling wood, I would think you would want to supply compressed air both for cooling and chip evacuation. They are available with very long holders for deep holes.

Zulu · « **Reply #25 on:** January 22, 2010, 05:40:46 AM »

Quote from: seacoastartillery on January 14, 2010, 05:21:43 AM

Quote from: Zulu on January 14, 2010, 03:43:10 AM
Div Arty.
How deep did you bore it?

Tracy and Mike,
Do you tool guys have any suggestion for boring large diameter (3" to 5") in wood?
Zulu

   Yes, I think we can offer a suggestion that may work for you in drilling deep, large, end-grain holes in wood. Although the largest hole we ever drilled in wood, end-grain was a 1.5" dia. hole, 30" long in white oak using a gundrill that we made for lathe use, I think we figured out what type of drill you need. Let's face it, a gundrill in the 5" dia. size would weigh at least 35 pounds, not good for your drill press motor!! A light-weight auger, maybe? They don't exist in the dia. needed. A modified Forstner? Can't find in size needed. So what about those hole saws the electricians use. Diameter, yes; depth of cut, NO! Except for one company. Under wood drills, large diameter, deep hole, we found this company:

http://www.advantage-drillbits.com/auger.html



   They make all sorts of drills, but they are the only one we found which make these in all sizes and long lengths:

   Carbide Tip Wood Core Drills

   For large deep hole wood drilling!
   1/2" to 24" diameters any depth!
   When you need to core either samples or for inspection
   of timbers. Best for cutting seawalls, frames, footers,
   bridge inspections. Installation of braces and more.
   The carbide tip design ensures clean smooth holes in the toughest wood.



   Powered by a full size drill press or a large lathe, this type of bit could do the job for you , we believe, in a through-hole situation. You certainly can't break off the end-grain core if you're trying to cut a blind hole. We have no experience with this company, but the people they sell to have some pretty severe requirements, so their drills are probably pretty good. They might be expensive too, but we don't know that.

Hope that helps you out as we really like your wood cannons a lot, and don't want you to beat yourself up boring those bores!

Good luck,

Mike and Tracy

I talked to someone at this company today. Cost for a bit to drill 3" to 4" holes 6" deep is in the $210 to $800 range depending on which bit you choose. He did say it would make quick work of the boring. Sounds like I will continue to "go slow".

Zulu

Josco · « **Reply #26 on:** January 22, 2010, 06:29:19 AM »

Regarding drilling and boring large dia. holes in wood you could do use a Silver & Deming 1 1/2" drill in your lathe's tailstock with extensions then, ( I never done this but it may work in wood) Use a flycutter as a boring bar mounted in your tailstock with extensions to bore the hole taking light cuts. You increase the dia. by adjusting the tool bit after each cut. 1/2" tool bits are available up to 6" long.
As I said I never tried this but it may work on wood with minimal chatter taking light cuts with the proper grind on the toolbit. (Grizzly Flycutter set of 3 with 1/2" shanks)
http://grizzly.com/products/Fly-Cutter-Set-w-Tool-Bits-1-2-/H5935

Double D · « **Reply #27 on:** January 22, 2010, 06:45:17 AM »

Get a section of thick wall tubing like this, Thick wall tubing Drill and tap the tubing for set screws tohold the fly cutter shaft. Put loctite on the fly cutter shaft insert in tubing and lock with set screws. On the other end do the set screw thing and insert a piece of 1/2 round stock for a drive shaft to put in you tail stock chuck.

Josco · « **Reply #28 on:** January 22, 2010, 07:19:27 AM »

DD,

I like your idea of using thick walled tubing for the extension/ extensions, considerably lighter than solid stock. What's your thoughts on using a fly cutter as a boring bar in the tailstock? As I said " I was just thinking off the wall"
I'm fortunate to have an older Delta 12" X 4 1/2 ft bed 16 speed wood lathe which has a rare original Delta crosslide and compound like a metal lathe and allows me to use all the tooling from my 9" South Bend lathe. It would be nice if the wood lathe mfgs. of today would offer a crosslide & compound as an option.

Regards
Joe

Double D · « **Reply #29 on:** January 22, 2010, 08:39:12 AM »

Quote from: Josco on January 22, 2010, 07:19:27 AM

DD,

I like your idea of using thick walled tubing for the extension/ extensions, considerably lighter than solid stock. What's your thoughts on using a fly cutter as a boring bar in the tailstock? As I said " I was just thinking off the wall"
I'm fortunate to have an older Delta 12" X 4 1/2 ft bed 16 speed wood lathe which has a rare original Delta crosslide and compound like a metal lathe and allows me to use all the tooling from my 9" South Bend lathe. It would be nice if the wood lathe mfgs. of today would offer a crosslide & compound as an option.

Regards
Joe

I don't know if it will work, but all you can do is try! If it doesn't work, try some thing else. I have used an endmill and a drill bit as a short boring bars.

I am going to build a similar set up to bore a piece of steel stock for a cannon using a S&D drill. I only need 11 inches of depth, finished with 1 5/32 chucking reamer if I can find one.